What would you run?

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My daily driver recently lost cylinder pressure on number two at 197k. The other three tested higher than stock minimum psi...but the dead cylinder tested 30. A valve job helped by 5-10psi...but nothing substantial. Initially I decided to run it until it grenades...and drove everywhere at 6-7k rpm. 2900 miles later, it was still going right along.

I bought a low mileage motor with high psi across the board, all new seals, and a new pan and valve cover gasket.

Originally Suzuki said these motors should only run 5w30 when ambient temps are below 55. 10w30 if they are below 86. And 10w40 as long as temps are above -20.

I am running significantly larger tires, and carry an additional 2-300lbs around everywhere. I'm primarily on the interstate with no drive ever being less than 20 miles. The motor Huns at about 3k rpm on the hwy, and it sees 4-6k rpm for shifts.

So what would you run?

I feel like the old temp range for 5w30 was due to sheering...this was 1995 afterall. ID prefer to eel as many MPG as possible out of it...and its 1-2mpg different when running 10w30 vs 15w40.

Ideally I would want something cheapish...non boutique. Not opposed to a synthetic, but I can get Mobil super high mileage 5w30 for so cheap it would make you tear up with envy.

For filters...I run an oversized denso. It pushes the capacity to almost 5 quarts for a 1.6L engine.
 
Since you want max mpg, and achieve it with 5w30, and make people cry with the price you get the Mobil for, that may be your answer. Get a UOA to make sure of your interval and call it good.
 
I'd run the cheapest good oil you can get. Save your dollars for the install of the new to you engine.

I'd be concerned about unburned fuel fouling the cats. Have you thought about disconnecting the injector for that cylinder ?
 
Originally Posted By: gregk24
I would run PYB 5w30, no need for a thicker oil.


What? He's running 300lbs more all the time with significantly oversize tires. That puts a lot of pressure on bearings and cylinder walls. He's constantly lugging or partially lugging the engine. Since he's down south and likely doesn't see much freezing, I'd run either a 10W-40 conventional - or for synthetic a 0W-40 or even a 15W-50. Go back to normal tires and you might make a 5w30 work.
 
The oil change interval will be 5000 odometer miles, 5800 street miles.

And in all fairness....the tires total 250lbs more than stock. The gear totals 200+lbs. Andcthe bumpers are say 100lbs more total. But I've ditched the carpet and all sound deadening material for bedline. The roof rack also probably weighs 40lbs and the snorkel is 20ish.

Probably a bit more weight in there. Though I am considering ditching the 100lb rear seat.

As of right now I'm leaning toward ms5 in a 10w40 or pyb in the same. I would actually like to run 0w40 M1, but I feel like it would be money wasted, the fuel dilution (it's an older fuel injection, not the lean running ones of today) would dictate a shorter oil change than necessary to recoup my funds.
 
Originally Posted By: SuzukiGoat


As of right now I'm leaning toward ms5 in a 10w40 or pyb in the same. I would actually like to run 0w40 M1, but I feel like it would be money wasted, the fuel dilution (it's an older fuel injection, not the lean running ones of today) would dictate a shorter oil change than necessary to recoup my funds.


From what I've seen this fuel dilution issue is more of a solution looking for a problem(DI engines maybe excepted),it's almost never a issue with higher revving engines...

I'd go with the 0W-40 and pull a sample at 5K for a UOA... Won't cost much more than a change and assuming you can go another 5K has paid for it's self...
 
Fired it up for the first time today. Used some PYB I had on hand. 5w30 flavor.

We will see how it holds up color wise as there was effectively nothing in the motor.

I've been doing 5000 x 1.05 mile oil changes on the wife's rig.

It would be lovely if I could do 5000 x 1.16 mile oil changes on mine.
 
Pulled the PYB at 200k miles today, with 700 miles on the oil. There was some top end chatter I didn't like. Swapped in mobil1 0W40.

Chatter disappeared, much quieter at idle. Much much quieter at high rpm.

I'm probably gonna run it to 7500x1.16 miles and call it good. That's the exact same cost. Every 15k as 3 conventional changes in the same period.

It is ridiculous how much quieter it is though. I didn't tell the wife and she noticed when we tached up you heated the exhaust rather than the engine.
 
I had a '89 Sidekick and '98 Tracker, both 1.6L. The top end chatter can be corrected by adjusting the valve lash. The frequency of adjustment is in your manual (I think it was 30K).

Not sure why you would change out perfectly good oil with only 700 miles on it!
 
When I purchased the newer motor there was some questionable clear solvent smelling liquid in the bottom when I pulled the plug. No more than a teaspoon drained out, but Given that I'm not sure what was in it, I prefer to error on the safe side.

I just adjusted the valves 700 miles ago to. 006 when cold, which translates to perfect when warm.

The valve adjustment isn't quite that frequent, every sixty thousand miles is recommended.

Ill probably do a readjustment in 15k miles just to check out the top end cleaning ability of mobil1.

Oil comes cheap, and all of the used oil gets used anyways.

Probably gonna have to pull the wife's pan, distributor, and valve cover soon, she leaking about a quart every 5k. More if you run it high in the Rev range. More drips.
 
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