Owen Lucas
$100 Site Donor 2023
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2021
- Messages
- 2,595
Place a water sensor under your heater for the time being. I have them under every sink, appliance, and utility in my house. Saved my butt multiple times.
A dielectric union is good for (3) reasons; To pipe the water heater in copper, for dissimilar metals (if it applies), and a break away point. This is how I have piped EVERY water heater I have installed (I worked part time for a friend that owned his own plumbing company). And never had to go back to fix ANYTHING.Why are dielectric unions necessary? There is an anode in the water heater... but to what extent is allowing electrical continuity with the rest of the copper piping system a prb? The latter is not immersed in an electrolyte and really should not corrode, and accordingly is not inappropriately using-up your anode (is it)?
ANYONE can install flexible connections.As a master plumber I have not been satisfied with the flexible SS lines. I always hard pipe.
Well, from the break-away point of view just wondering if the attachment to the copper pipes water system is beneficial in an earthquake (not as the primary restraint of course...)? Also, I can't say I've seen terrible corrosion rates in either my hot water tanks or my copper piping systems in years past, without insulating unions in place. Not arguing, just want to find if there's a compelling reason for them. I ask this 'cuz I'm right now, at this moment, piping up the water side of my new 50 US gallon hw tank...A dielectric union is good for (3) reasons; To pipe the water heater in copper, for dissimilar metals (if it applies), and a break away point. This is how I have piped EVERY water heater I have installed (I worked part time for a friend that owned his own plumbing company). And never had to go back to fix ANYTHING.
But, to each his own.
Well, read my replies and it's MY way of piping one (or many) from experience. As I stated, we as pipe fitter students were taught the way our knowledgeable teachers taught us. I too was a pipe fitter teacher for the last 6 years of my career and taught it the same way.We'll, from the break-away point of view just wondering if the attachment to the copper pipes water system is beneficial in an earthquake? Also, I can't say I've seen terrible corrosion rates in either my hot water tanks or my copper piping systems in years past, without insulating unions in place. Not arguing, just want to find if there's a compelling reason for them. I ask this cuz I'm right now, at this moment, piping up the water side of my new 50 US gallon hw tank...
I gave (3) reasons why a dielectric union is used when piping a water heater. I don't understand exactly why you would want to know WHY a dielectric union is needed, other than my explanation for one.Well, from the break-away point of view just wondering if the attachment to the copper pipes water system is beneficial in an earthquake (not as the primary restraint of course...)? Also, I can't say I've seen terrible corrosion rates in either my hot water tanks or my copper piping systems in years past, without insulating unions in place. Not arguing, just want to find if there's a compelling reason for them. I ask this 'cuz I'm right now, at this moment, piping up the water side of my new 50 US gallon hw tank...
I see your pic you added. If it were me, I would get rid of those female adapters and brass unions and use a dielectric union. You will only have (1) solder joint at the water heater VS (3). AND a dielectric union will keep (2) dissimilar metals from interacting with one another. I don't trust those lined nipples as a way to pipe (2) dissimilar metals. I have seen corrosion on them when a copper female adapter was piped to one.Well, from the break-away point of view just wondering if the attachment to the copper pipes water system is beneficial in an earthquake (not as the primary restraint of course...)? Also, I can't say I've seen terrible corrosion rates in either my hot water tanks or my copper piping systems in years past, without insulating unions in place. Not arguing, just want to find if there's a compelling reason for them. I ask this 'cuz I'm right now, at this moment, piping up the water side of my new 50 US gallon hw tank...
Plumbers Local 15 Minneapolis MN class of 1972, Welding instructor for 22 years. I agree Blue Oval Brother.ANYONE can install flexible connections.
Professionals (like you and I) pipe a water heater the way we were taught in our (usually first year) apprenticeship program (4 years at Local 198 Baton Rouge, La.).
Place a water sensor under your heater for the time being. I have them under every sink, appliance, and utility in my house. Saved my butt multiple times.
View attachment 94241
Place a water sensor under your heater for the time being. I have them under every sink, appliance, and utility in my house. Saved my butt multiple times.
View attachment 94241
Play along !!As a career master plumber that terminology is my pet peeve as well, it's a water heater unless you are heating already hot water to a higher temp for sanitary purposes such as a commercial kitchen, then it's a booster heater.
For some reason I don't think that's code in our state. Don't know why. I just end up using shark bite fittings. You can get the tool for $1 that lets you disconnect them and you can reuse them. That's one of the tricks that my plumber did, always measured the height of the old water heater and got the same height so you don't have to adjust the venting and plumbing, then it's an easy swap in and out instead of re-adjusting everything. Maybe that's why Home Depot quotes $1200 installed now, that's if the gas pipe doesn't line up, the flue needs to be moved, none of the water lines line up etc with a completely different water heater.I purposefully went with flex on the outlet when I installed my water heater (first time). I would have on the inlet as well but that's where the bladder is. In my opinion a flex connection is preferred. It makes the next replacement solder-free, and I just don't like the idea that if the tank moves, the water pipes move. I did use a union on the inlet side because the bladder is there so no desoldering/soldering next time unless I am forced to go with a different height water heater. Even then, only the union side will need resoldered.