Owen Lucas
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Place a water sensor under your heater for the time being. I have them under every sink, appliance, and utility in my house. Saved my butt multiple times.
What Type Of Hot Water Heater Connector Lines Do You Prefer ??
- Thread starter billt460
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When I replaced my water heater I used all copper sweat connections with dielectric unions. I also replaced the cheap plastic drain valve with a brass ball valve with a garden hose fitting on the end. It’s very convenient if you need to drain it to replace the anode rod or gas valve or if you want to remove any sediment and lime scale.
A dielectric union is good for (3) reasons; To pipe the water heater in copper, for dissimilar metals (if it applies), and a break away point. This is how I have piped EVERY water heater I have installed (I worked part time for a friend that owned his own plumbing company). And never had to go back to fix ANYTHING.
But, to each his own.
ANYONE can install flexible connections.
Professionals (like you and I) pipe a water heater the way we were taught in our (usually first year) apprenticeship program (4 years at Local 198 Baton Rouge, La.).
Well, from the break-away point of view just wondering if the attachment to the copper pipes water system is beneficial in an earthquake (not as the primary restraint of course...)? Also, I can't say I've seen terrible corrosion rates in either my hot water tanks or my copper piping systems in years past, without insulating unions in place. Not arguing, just want to find if there's a compelling reason for them. I ask this 'cuz I'm right now, at this moment, piping up the water side of my new 50 US gallon hw tank...
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Well, read my replies and it's MY way of piping one (or many) from experience. As I stated, we as pipe fitter students were taught the way our knowledgeable teachers taught us. I too was a pipe fitter teacher for the last 6 years of my career and taught it the same way.
If you're worried about an earthquake hitting, I think the way your water heater is piped is probably not going to be of any concern.
As I stated before, to each his own.
I gave (3) reasons why a dielectric union is used when piping a water heater. I don't understand exactly why you would want to know WHY a dielectric union is needed, other than my explanation for one.
I could use a galvanized union, or a black union. But it would be for the SAME reason, a break away point. If I use either of the aforementioned unions I will still need a way to keep (2) dissimilar metals from (corroding) interacting with one another when I pipe it in copper.
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I see your pic you added. If it were me, I would get rid of those female adapters and brass unions and use a dielectric union. You will only have (1) solder joint at the water heater VS (3). AND a dielectric union will keep (2) dissimilar metals from interacting with one another. I don't trust those lined nipples as a way to pipe (2) dissimilar metals. I have seen corrosion on them when a copper female adapter was piped to one.
Plumbers Local 15 Minneapolis MN class of 1972, Welding instructor for 22 years. I agree Blue Oval Brother.
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I have those under every sink in the house. As well as next to the fridge, water heater, and water softener. They're inexpensive, and work well. I test them every month by placing them on a wet washcloth.... Drives the dog nuts.
The braided ones from Home Depot sold under their Everbilt house brand made by LDR have been a disappointment. I use either corrugated copper or try to find American-made ones from a local plumbing house. Preferably ones with a HDPE dielectric sleeve. In CA, flexible connectors are preferred due to earthquake risk.
I had one fail. The most important thing IMO than connectors is keeping the things touching the water path in the same level of nobility. I always use brass nipples or dielectrics whenever possible.
I had one fail. The most important thing IMO than connectors is keeping the things touching the water path in the same level of nobility. I always use brass nipples or dielectrics whenever possible.
I assume someone must have mentioned here that hard vs. flex hook up is very dependent on local codes?
9 years trouble-free.
Why do you want to heat hot water?
I purposefully went with flex on the outlet when I installed my water heater (first time). I would have on the inlet as well but that's where the bladder is. In my opinion a flex connection is preferred. It makes the next replacement solder-free, and I just don't like the idea that if the tank moves, the water pipes move. I did use a union on the inlet side because the bladder is there so no desoldering/soldering next time unless I am forced to go with a different height water heater. Even then, only the union side will need resoldered.
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Play along !!
For some reason I don't think that's code in our state. Don't know why. I just end up using shark bite fittings. You can get the tool for $1 that lets you disconnect them and you can reuse them. That's one of the tricks that my plumber did, always measured the height of the old water heater and got the same height so you don't have to adjust the venting and plumbing, then it's an easy swap in and out instead of re-adjusting everything. Maybe that's why Home Depot quotes $1200 installed now, that's if the gas pipe doesn't line up, the flue needs to be moved, none of the water lines line up etc with a completely different water heater.
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