What size restriction req?

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I am installing a oil filter bypass setup on my 6.0 Powerstroke diesel. I have purchased a Fleetgaurd LF777 filter with a #3304173 remote mount. I believe the filter flows 2 gpm and the mount has an aprox. 1/16" (0.0625)restriction built into the outlet. Is this the proper size restriction for my application or do I require an additional restriction with a smaller orfice size? Other posts have indicated that a rule of thumb flow rate of 1 gpm is req. with restrictions of 0.030-0.042?
 
Why not try shooting the oil in a container while your engine is running to get GPM? Don't know how handy that would be to do though?

Don't have a clue what size you need. I would think that 1/16 would be in the ballpark.
 
I too am installing a bypass oil filter system on my diesel pusher motor home. I'm piecing together the system myself.

My motor home has a 450hp Cummins M11 (10.8L) engine that holds 10 gals of oil. I bought a CarQuest#89750 remote bypass filter mount(equivalent to a Wix 24750). The bypass filter I'm going to use is Baldwin B7577(equivalent to Wix 51749 or FG LF777). The filter mount has a .100 retriction hole in the return side. This seems a little small to me?

If push comes to shove, I'll have to do as suggested, and start her up, then time and measure the flow as is, and make adjustments from there to get 1 to 2 gals per min.

What are your thoughts?

Thanks

Don
 
I may have been mistaken on the 1 gpm, should be 1 quart per min. I am surprised that some of the more experienced gurus on this site have not responded to this.
 
I think checking the flow rate is more than likely nesessary after the bypass system is installed but it would be nice to get it right the first attempt. I think less restriction is better than not enough. I would hate to see a pressure drop in the primary oiling. The bypass would just take longer to filter the entire sump.
 
Don, with 10 gal of oil .100" may be ok for your application. From what I understand, driving at 45 mph on the highway it should take 15 min to filter the intire sump. For my application of 14 quarts of oil it should take 14 min @ 1 quart per min.
 
I had long discussion with an engineer at Racor about this. They use a 0.040" restrictor on the bypass filters they recommend for light trucks. If yours is at 0.062" that might be in the ballpark. If you have the option, I'd recommend a bit smaller. If you want to try it, note any drop in oil pressure (assuming your truck has a "real" gauge). As the filter loads up, restriction will increase, so a new filter will be the place where you start off with the most potential problems.
 
Thanks Jim, after countless hours researching this I came up with the same .040 orfice. What I have done is Drilled the .0625 restriction out and tapped it 10-32 to accept a carburator air bleed jet that is .036. From what I understand the Amsoil restrictions are .030, I will still do a flow test when the bypass is installed.
 
Closer to 1/16" or smaller seems more reasonable. You can always drill out and go bigger. Hard to go smaller when your engine is getting starved for oil and your bypass filter is trying to filter too much oil.

Was not even thinking about GPM. I guess flow volume per minute would be a better way to say it. Good luck
 
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I finished installing the bypass system. I flow checked it too. I warmed the oil up first, then I removed the bypass filter from its mount and ran the engine at idle and caught 1 1/3 gals in 1 min. My bypass filter is rated to flow 1 3/4 gals/min. I didn't lose any oil pressure either. I'm happy with this.

The oil is Shell Rotella T3 15-40w w/2900 miles on it since I changed 3 mths ago. The full flow filter is a Fleetgaurd LF3000. I had to add 1/2 gal of makeup oil to fill the new bypass filter(Baldwin B7577).

I'll do a UOA now, then again this coming summer.

Don
 
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Flow can impact efficiency. Check the rating on the filter and how it corresponds to the flow rate noted (like on the WIX site). It will still come down to "soot management". You're in inverted free fall of soot production vs. soot removal.

Your task now is matching filtering capacity with a sensible service interval. There are larger systems where you're changing the sump around the filter, and filters that are changed around the sump.
 
Rgarding bypass filters etc, I see a lot of people talk about not wanting to starve the engine of oil. And trying to get the proper restrictor size. A bypass filter is just that, the restrictor only creats a restriction in order to divert a portion of the oil through the bypass filter. It should not be changing the total volume of oil that flows in any way. By changing the orfice size will determine the amount of oil that will be diverted and forced through the bypass filter. The oil pump will produce much more volumn than can be forced through the oil galleries in the engine,most engines have a bypass before the main filter that returns oil that the main filter can't handle back to sump. Oil viscosity, as influenced by temp will have a large affect on flow through bypass filters.
 
What's a good rule-of-thumb for bypass filter flow as a percentage of total oil system flow? Is it 5%, 10%?

As Gary mentioned, the filtration also increases the slower you filter the oil. I bet there is a sweet spot between not flowing enough oil and flowing too much where the pressure inside the bypass filter is greater than desired and begins to channel the media or cause leaks.

If I were to guess, I would say that a pressure differential of 2-5 PSI would work just fine for new media since this seems to be what a permacool adapter generates - many bypass filter installers have used these in their setups. Maybe aim for this pressure diff and then measure the flow to check that it is under 10%, or some percentage, of system flow?
 
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mjo said:
What's a good rule-of-thumb for bypass filter flow as a percentage of total oil system flow? Is it 5%, 10%?

I've been led to believe that 10% is the amount.

On the engine I put this bypass system on, the full flow oil filter spin nipple thread size is 2.25"(HUGE). I'm not certain how much oil the oil pump on my engine can move in one minute, but the huge nipple size leds me to believe it is a least 10 times the amount the little .10" in my bypass mount allows.
 
Yeah, 10-15 percent. I think it may also depend on the engine's oil flow capacity. You don't want to bleed off too much flow/pressure. Gary Allan probably has some better rules of thumb since he's experimented so much.
 
Diesel engines tend to have surplus oil capacity which is a good thing.

But, I tend to prefer and recommend smaller. Hot oil flow is plenty even with a .030 or .040 orifice. So, start smaller and UOA if you think that you're sooting up the oil too quickly.

Another option is to keep the .06 orifice size but to add in a pressure switch. This way, you will send oil flow to the bypass only when the oil PSI is high enough. A 25-psi pressure switch will give full bypass flow above a given RPM(>1200+) but no flow below it(soccer mom idling around).

I wish that the bypass manufacturers would make a flow pressure switch standard.
 
Here's how you'd find the appropriate check valve given the following data sheet:

Parker Check Valves

For example, if your oil pressure spec for your engine is 35psi minimum at idle then you would find a check valve with a cracking pressure of 35 PSI (e.g. C1200S35 from the website). You'd still want a flow restrictor connected in your oil line with the check valve. Does not matter the order of check valve or flow restrictor as long as they are before the filter.
 
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