What oils are proven to contain esters?

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Originally Posted By: SHAMUS
In response to my query to Red Line, they state that they are principly POE, with PAO secondary - and of course refuse to state what those portions are. Now - WHAT THE H**L ARE "NANO PARTICLES?" I hope you're kidding!
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Oops! I meant to reply to LiquidZ.


I'm not sure if you were questioning my knowledge of what nano-particles are. I certainly know what they are, but 370Z owners are not sure exactly what special nano-particles Nissan is using...
 
Was looking for a quote by molakule on nanoparticles and saw this interesting list:

Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Generally speaking, the dithiocarbamates and phosphorodithioates of molybdenum, antimony, titanium, copper, and other transition metals are one such class of multifunctional additives.

...Let's list the chemical names of some of these AW/EP/Anti-Oxidant additives:

Antimony dialkyldithiocarbamates
Molybdenum dialkyldithiocarbamates
Molybdenum phosphordithioates
Sulphur-Phosphor Olefins
tricresyl phosphate (290 C usefull UL)
tin napthenate or
ZDDP or zinc dialkyldithiophosphate
tin dialkyldithiophosphate and other metallic dialkyldithiophosphates
CPP (relative new)
potassium triborates
calcium borates
alkylamino phosphorodithioates such as diisoamylphosphorodithioic acids or DPDA's

The antioxidant action of these synthesized compounds is due to their ability to decompose hydroperoxides; those peroxides that lead to polymerization of carbonaceous particles as sludge particles.[ June 17, 2003, 11:56 AM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
 
Originally Posted By: SHAMUS
Now - WHAT THE H**L ARE "NANO PARTICLES?" I hope you're kidding!
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Found the quote:

Originally Posted By: MolaKule
If you have ever played with mica or held it in your hands, then you know its layers can be split into finer and finer layers. (BTW, mica was and is still used in electronic tubes to separate electrodes and to make capacitors; ask any old Ham Operator
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).

Anyway, these nanoparticles of Boron, calcium, or moly, or titanium or whatever, form very thin sheets of particles with dimensions in the 1 X 10^-9 meter (nano = 10^-9 of course) ranges.

They do a good job of coating and filling in asperities (mechanical hills and valleys) in metal and therefore reduce friction. Improved mechanical and laser milling has reduced the size of these particle from 1 X 10^-6 to 1 X 10^-9 meters.

Since many of these particles (in colloidal suspension) are somewhat non-polar, sulfur is usually attached to them to help them bond, so one has to be careful in the formulaton to keep TAN low and TBN high. But base chemistry is usually raised in order to do this, so I don't see a problem with TAN in balanced formulations.
 
HMMMM so redline 5w-30 amsoil 5w-30 and Motul would be great for this motor im taking it?
 
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
I want to try the YB you suggested too.


One thing I notice about the yb is that my oil pressure is always constant and never gets on the low side.
 
Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
RedLine uses a POE/Polyol Ester (group V) base oil, but it isn't officially API certified (like Amsoil, save for their XL line) so you may want to avoid it until after your warranty is up.

I heard PP may contain a small amount of ester, not sure if that is true or not. Mobil 1 likely contains a decent percentage of Alkylated Naphthalenes (group V) which have more polarity than PAO/GroupII/GroupIII but less than POE.

What ester additive is the dealer claiming?




As far as not being officially API certified? Are you saying that it could meet or exceed API standards, but API has not officially allowed them to say "API Certified"?
 
IMO Redline an overated oil for its price for street use, in Australia $36/L. Maybe OK for track and high temperature use.

At this price, for street use oils, I would expect:
1. No top oil required during OCI, if required Redline pays for it.
2. One year minimum OCI period including severe conditions
3. Written warranty against engine damage from use of the oil
4. Free oil filter and free labout to change the oil at a service centre of your choice
5. Get at least 1 API and 1 ACEA certification, as the lack of certification is not keeping the price down.
 
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Originally Posted By: virginoil
IMO Redline an overated oil for its price for street use, in Australia $36/L. Maybe OK for track and high temperature use.

At this price, for street use oils, I would expect:
1. No top oil required during OCI, if required Redline pays for it.
2. One year minimum OCI period including severe conditions
3. Written warranty against engine damage from use of the oil
4. Free oil filter and free labout to change the oil at a service centre of your choice
5. Get at least 1 API and 1 ACEA certification, as the lack of certification is not keeping the price down.


That's a crazy price Is all oil more expensive there?

Expecting a warranty against damage is asking for a lot. While you and I may be honest, how many people would buy the oil for an engine on it's last leg just to take advantage of the warranty.
 
The only two "guaranteed" high ester base oils I'm aware of are RL and Motul. They're "guaranteed" only because they advertise that element of their formulas. There may be others, but the industry norm is not to get too particular about formulae content.

Base oils can play a difference in some operating environments, but it's the whole package that should tell the tale of an oil's worth. I'm surprised Nissan is advocating such a narrow component.

But if you must have such ester-heavy oils, I guess I would lean towards RL. I can't think of many off-track situations where the added cost of Motul 300V is justified. Both are outstanding performers, provided you keep the moisture and fuel dilution rates under control.
 
Originally Posted By: ccs v2.0
Add Fuchs Silkolene to your list.


I don't pay much attention to cycle oils. I'm not sure the OP wants to run an API-SJ oil spec, but it looks like nice stuff. Not that the starburst is prevalent on many ester/racing/motorsport oils anyway.
 
I have used Redline oils exclusivly for the last 130,000 miles in my Infiniti Q45, and highly recommend it based on my experience with it. Engine is smooth, quiet, powerful, and clean as new inside and burns no oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Volvohead
Originally Posted By: ccs v2.0
Add Fuchs Silkolene to your list.


I don't pay much attention to cycle oils. I'm not sure the OP wants to run an API-SJ oil spec, but it looks like nice stuff. Not that the starburst is prevalent on many ester/racing/motorsport oils anyway.

I know what you mean, but it does look like nice stuff. I am sure the add pack has to be very robust.
 
$36???? What is the exchange rate to US Dollars? I thought the $8.49/qt I pay was high, but in your case, I would start riding a roo!
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