What is a good oil temperature, before Wide Open Throttle? I have heard BMW recommends something around 130F before anything over 3000 RPM.
What Oil Temp for WOT?
- Thread starter Bob25thTA
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This is my thinking for full RPM at WOT:
20 wt. oil - 160 F
30 wt. oil - 180 F
40 wt. oil - 200 F
50 wt. oil - 220 F
Note that you cannot use your water temperature gauge to tell where your oil temperature may be. Water heats up in 2 - 3 minutes whereas oil takes as long a 30 minutes to get to 180 F.
aehaas
20 wt. oil - 160 F
30 wt. oil - 180 F
40 wt. oil - 200 F
50 wt. oil - 220 F
Note that you cannot use your water temperature gauge to tell where your oil temperature may be. Water heats up in 2 - 3 minutes whereas oil takes as long a 30 minutes to get to 180 F.
aehaas
So today I ran my Accord V6 3.0L easily for maybe 3-5 minutes (from cold), then opened it up pretty good to warm it before changing the oil. I didn't red-line it, but I did push it pretty good, some hard accelerations.
What are the odds I did any engine damage, e.g. piston scuffing, etc.? I'm really paranoid now, because I rarely drive it hard.
What are the odds I did any engine damage, e.g. piston scuffing, etc.? I'm really paranoid now, because I rarely drive it hard.
I doubt you have done any damage as bad as piston scuffing. I wouldn't worry about that. I would have trashed an engine by now if that were the case. I typically pull WOT throttle shortly after the coolant is up to temp. It really isn't a choice when I leave work and need to match the 65 mph traffic on the highway with a short ramp. There are also the times where we get in an extreme hurry to not be late somewhere and the foot hits the floor before things get warmed up. UOAs haven't shown the expected wear that some people have for this type of abuse. I'm not saying that there isn't increased wear, but it doesn't destroy an engine on occasions that the oil does not reach the optimal viscosity before WOT.
I really should get an oil temperature gauge and a pressure gauge too so I can see whats happening, are these easy to install? I never thought that it would take so long to get to 180. I rode with somebody in a BMW 2000 that went from 100 degrees to 240 degrees in less than 5 minutes while driving on an advanced car control course for a lap. I asked him about the temperature and he didn't seem to concerned and went for a few more laps.
How long would it take the average 4 cylinder to get its oil up to temp on the highway at say 65 mph?
I really should get an oil temperature gauge and a pressure gauge too so I can see whats happening, are these easy to install? I never thought that it would take so long to get to 180. I rode with somebody in a BMW 2000 that went from 100 degrees to 240 degrees in less than 5 minutes while driving on an advanced car control course for a lap. I asked him about the temperature and he didn't seem to concerned and went for a few more laps.
How long would it take the average 4 cylinder to get its oil up to temp on the highway at say 65 mph?
I have never made the distinction between part throttle and WOT - rather I observe strict RPM limits on my Alfas until the oil is up to temperature.
On my cars, the oil will reach operating temperatures about 10 minutes after the coolant heats up to the point where the thermostat opens (which you can see as a dip on the temperature guage). Once the coolant is up to temp I will begin gradually using more RPMs until the oil pressure drops into the proper range, then commence with WOT redline shifts.
Joe
On my cars, the oil will reach operating temperatures about 10 minutes after the coolant heats up to the point where the thermostat opens (which you can see as a dip on the temperature guage). Once the coolant is up to temp I will begin gradually using more RPMs until the oil pressure drops into the proper range, then commence with WOT redline shifts.
Joe
Quote:
So today I ran my Accord V6 3.0L easily for maybe 3-5 minutes (from cold), then opened it up pretty good to warm it before changing the oil. I didn't red-line it, but I did push it pretty good, some hard accelerations.
What are the odds I did any engine damage, e.g. piston scuffing, etc.? I'm really paranoid now, because I rarely drive it hard.
If you had the recommended GF-4 0/5w-20 I wouldn't worry about it too much.
FWIW, manufacturers worry more about people WOT-ling a cold engine than they do about the other end of the spectrum.
Patman
Staff member
I personally like to wait until my 98 Corvette hits 180F oil temps before going full throttle, although sometimes when drag racing I've gotten stuck in the staging lanes during a long cleanup (after an oil down or breakage) and had no choice but to run the car with the oil a little colder.
I agree Patman, that certainly is the safest approach, and one I try to follow especially given today's tighter clearances and all aluminum engines.
Those are the numbers I remember from past discussions
Well it did have MC 5W-20 SM/GF4. Hope I'm okay...
Quote:
Well it did have MC 5W-20 SM/GF4. Hope I'm okay...
I wouldn't worry about it. At most you might see a miniscule uptick in wear metals. Just try to avoid doing it in the future.
Since I run 30W in all my vehicles, I guess 180F is the magic number.
Since we are talking about temps, should you run your car before changing the oil or can you just change it cold? I like to get as much of the old out and the new in.
Any suggestions??
Any suggestions??
Now I know why many of the Ducati's (in SA) where having trouble with oil temperatures of 150 degrees C!! Only 2 oils were able to stand the abnormal environment. Castrol Formula RS 10W-60 and Fina First 5W-50.
Interesting that you mention all ally motors. I have always thought that if the head and block are ally then the need for a proper warmup is a little less than with a iron block, ally head setup? Is this an incorrect assumption on my part?
I believe changing it warm/hot is preferred. There are a couple of recent multi-page threads on this topic...just browse back a half-dozen pages or so in this forum and you should stumble upon them.
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