What oil for Honda Accord daily +spirited driving

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Southern California
I will be very grateful if you guys can provide any advice. I need to do an oil change ASAP.


1. What kind of vehicle you have

-2011 Honda Accord LX-P.
- ~42,000 miles
-Automatic.
-K24z2 engine. 2.4 liter Inline 4. DOHC.
-all stock except sticky summer tires


2. What your owner's manual says -- not just viscosity, but certifications (look for acronyms like API SM, ILSAC GF-4, etc.) and change intervals as well

"Use a premium-grade 0W-20
detergent oil displaying the API
Certification Seal. ......You may use a synthetic motor oil if
it meets the same requirements
given for a conventional motor oil: it
displays the API Certification Seal,
and it is the proper weight."

Up until now, I've had the oil changed at the dealer when the cars computer would tell me to with the oil life indicator. But since I am abusing the car more now I am getting more involved with maintenance. The dealer usually used 0w-20 or 5w-20 synthetic blend. 2-3 oil changes a year.

Also when should I replace the oil filter? The manual says to do it when the computer gives the service code for it. But do people change it at every oil change? Should I change it now since I am switching oil types?


3. Where you live

Southern California. Los Angeles County. In the Valley above LA, but the weather is hotter compared to LA. Winter lowest temp ~35F.
Summer 80-100+F.

The car stays in Cali. Once in a while I take a trip to San Francisco or Las Vegas.


4. How you drive (easy? hard? fast? slow?)

Usually wait 30sec to a minute to warm up.

During the week, 4-5 days, EASY 2 mile round trip commute on surface streets.(I've heard this is not great for the oil)

Saturday Sunday work commute. 26 mile round trip each day. 50% of the time lead footed on the freeway. Car is on the freeway 2-4 minutes after I get going.


****Spirited driving on twisty road.
- 1-2x week at sunset/night.
-30 minutes to an hour each time.
-Repeats of the same section of road.
-I lock the auto transmission into 2nd gear. 3-6k RPM 2-3 minutes at a time. Sometimes I get slowed down by other cars. Or I take it slow for a bit then continue again. Basically it's not getting floored non-stop the whole time. Usually I park halfway ,after cooling down. Then continue again. I do my best to be cautious and stay under my limit and the cars limit.


Ive done one track day at Willow Springs. Only did 2/8 sessions and kept the laps down. With the same oil it has now. I might do one more track day this year but most likely not.



7. If you have any preferences -- synthetic vs. conventional, store-bought vs. ordered online, how long you'd like to go between oil changes, etc. -- or any other info you think might be important, let us know that as well.


I plan to switch over to full syntetic. Would prefer to buy in store, but willing to order online for more options. With synthetic I'd like to go 4-6k between changes if possible.




My main questions are. Should I stick with 0w-20? Since I live in a much hotter area and drive the car hard weekly.


Thank you for reading this all.
 
My quick pick is Havoline ProDS 10W30. A thin SAE30 with a KV100C of only 10.0, but the NOACK is a low 9.0 which is an indication of a well formulated package.
 
Mobil 1 0w20 or 0w30 if you want a slightly thicker oil
Fram Ultra is a well made filter and lasts 15000 miles
Those are two great products that will be great for your car engine
 
Spirited driving ? ........... go for xW30 or thicker.
blush.gif
 
I have put more than 550k on three Honda's since 2001 using 5w20 or 0w20. All engines ran/run just fine with zero oil-related issues. Multiple UOA's done showing perfect results.
Why would a manufacturer specify an oil that would ruin engines?
 
Originally Posted By: toneydoc
Mobil 1 0w20 or 0w30 if you want a slightly thicker oil
Fram Ultra is a well made filter and lasts 15000 miles
Those are two great products that will be great for your car engine



Are the Fram oil filters sold in stores?
 
Originally Posted By: Chris Meutsch
I have put more than 550k on three Honda's since 2001 using 5w20 or 0w20. All engines ran/run just fine with zero oil-related issues. Multiple UOA's done showing perfect results.
Why would a manufacturer specify an oil that would ruin engines?


I don't think Honda did. But it gets really hot where I drive. And I also drive the car hard 1-2x a week in a way that it wasn't really designed to be driven. Thats why I want to find an oil that fits my usage.
 
Originally Posted By: toneydoc
Mobil 1 0w20 or 0w30 if you want a slightly thicker oil
Fram Ultra is a well made filter and lasts 15000 miles
Those are two great products that will be great for your car engine


Agree with M1 0w-20 (AFE) if you want to stay in spec.

I doubt there will ever be a car that specs 0w-20 that will have problems with 5w-30 though. A lot of people running it in the imprezas even though 0w-20 is specified. No problems so far.
 
There are many who use 30wt in the K24 you will have no issues. You probably wouldn't have any issues with a 20wt either. Pick your poison and it will last a long time without worry.
 
Welcome Chris!

Note my sig block...

I would recommend Mobil 1 0w-20 extended performance with a Mobil 1 oil filter. Use the Oil life indicator and change it at 30%. Doing this you'll be fine.

Oh, and please change the oil yourself if you can!

11.gif
 
Originally Posted By: sasilverbullet
Welcome Chris!

Note my sig block...

I would recommend Mobil 1 0w-20 extended performance with a Mobil 1 oil filter. Use the Oil life indicator and change it at 30%. Doing this you'll be fine.

Oh, and please change the oil yourself if you can!

11.gif



Thanks. Dont have space or tools yet, but hopefully a friend of mine can do it at his body shop.
 
Subscribed!

2015 Honda Accord Sport, 4 cyl. 2.4L, DI.

I give the engine some high RPM loads for a short period every once in a while.

PPPP 0W-20 or Mobil 1 EP 0W-20?
 
For any Honda QSUD/Mobil1/PP 0w20 or 5w20 from Walmart and a standard Fram filter. Change every 5-6000 miles and forget about it. Your engine will go 300k. No need for any filter upgrade but do change the filter every OCI.

If you can't change it yourself. Have Walmart do it. That way you can pick your own oil & filter.
 
Last edited:
Hi Chris, welcome to BITOG.

While you may consider your driving practices as "spirited", the fact is, you drive well within the expectations of Honda engineers and accordingly do NOT need to deviate from factory specifications. In other words, keep doing what you're doing. If you would like some additional peace of mind, run the OLM down to 0% then have your service provider take a sample for analysis (you can get a free sample kit from Blackstone labs). Get a TBN test done which will show you the level of additive package remaining thereby giving guidance as to the accuracy of the OLM. BTW, the OLM algorithm will take into account periods of harder use i.e., RPM levels. No worries about heat. Your cooling system, if operating normally, will prevent any excessive heating.

I've done all this on our 2011 Accord V6 (for other reasons) and can report that Honda's OLM is very good. I'm going about 8,000 miles between OCs. I like Toyota TGMO (after having used and tested Honda's 0W-20) with OE filters but feel free to use any major brand oil/filter combination you feel good about.

One more thing...of high importance is maintaining proper oil levels. Get in the habit of checking it at least once per week until you are comfortable with usage rates. Some Honda's burn oil, some don't. It is literally more important that your engine has plenty of oil than all the concern/worry/discussion about brands. And don't forget about your automatic transmission. Check fluid levels and service according to your owner's manual.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: MoparMan1891
Subscribed!

2015 Honda Accord Sport, 4 cyl. 2.4L, DI.

I give the engine some high RPM loads for a short period every once in a while.

PPPP 0W-20 or Mobil 1 EP 0W-20?

Same K24Z1 here...
On paper the M1EP is better but in real life it won't matter.

M1: higher HTHS; higher VI; lower CCS & MRV; higher TBN.

PPPP: lower NOACK

I'm currently running PPPP but have a large stash of M1EP and AFE so I will switch after 2 more OCI's.

With a DI engine there is some thought of the Ca-heavy add pack in PPPP may lead to LSPI.
 
"Use a premium-grade 0W-20
detergent oil displaying the API
Certification Seal. ......You may use a synthetic motor oil if
it meets the same requirements
given for a conventional motor oil: it
displays the API Certification Seal,
and it is the proper weight."
 
Use Napa Synthetic 0w20 and a Napa Gold or Platinum filter. Change the filter every OCI. Napa Synthetic is rebranded Synpower and also on sale this month for only $2.99/qt
smile.gif
 
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