What oil and filter for a Tacoma 2.4 L?

[Al]

Steve:
Pretty obvious-you know your stuff. I have the '94 22-RE. (4WD Pickup) It is and always was a dog. When the electric fan comes on it is super dead. Is there anyting that can be done relatively easily, simply and cheaply to gain just a bit more performance. Maybe like putting in a less aggressive cooling fan blade in there. The radiator system seems overdesigned so it could handle it probably.

Also I have never adjusted the valves in 80K miles. Is it possible they need adjustment. It really doesn't sound like they need adjustment.

Thanks,
Al

 

[Toyota Steve]

ASl - I guess we're going off topic, might end up emailing - but here goes... First I'm a STICKLER for valve adjustments. Too loose is noisy and annoying, but won't hurt anything. On the other hand too tight WILL burn the valves and seats!!! I tell my customers if you can't hear the valves, they're too tight. Of course the factory specified .012 on the exhaust is loud, so if you tighten it to .010 it'll help. just be diligent on maintaining that clearance, much tighter than that becomes questionable.

On the performance issue with electric fans - I think I need more info - I have never seen a 22r/ e equipped vehicle with factory installed electric cooling fan for the radiator. The later models DID have an electric fan mounted in front of the a/c condenser, and it's for the ac. My 4runner has it. I know what you mean about drag, when my a/c comes on it feels like I'm pulling my trailer. I have addressed it by adding a vacuum operated microswitch that shuts my ac off at a specified vacuum point. Mine is set for 5", so from 5" vac to 0" I have no compressor drag. Since these figures are only reached during short burst aggressive acceleration, You cannot even tell the compressor is off, as the interior blower keeps blowing cooled air from the evap unit. Another interesting point is that the compressors used prior to 1989 worked without any noticeable drag on the engine, and had no effect on power or fuel economy. The later compressor, like you and I have, is a dog. I'm gonna retrofit mine in the future, I've already collected a good compressor for the swap. Now to make an adapter (easy) so I can keep the late model hoses, which will keep the changeover more affordable. Any more questions? Steve

 

[JohnBrowning]

Toyota Steve, Yes I left out alot of stuff. This is why I wrote a qualifing statement at the bottom of my post. It was 1:41 AM. I really did not want a long post. The general point of my post is that it is alot more invloved replaceing the timeing componets on the 2.7. Seeing how this is the only problem we have had I thought it was worth shareing!

I must be lucky because I have never had a 22RE eat a timeing cover. I have seen a few new guide designs on the after market that have are aluminum with the tough backalite like guide material bonded to them. Is this an attempt to prevent the chain from eating the timeing cover. I ask because my old ones never had any aluminum in their design they were all polymer. I also noticed that my Dads 2.7 had this new design from the factory.

I have never had to remove the oil pan or head to do the timeing chain on a 22RE. I have to admitt I do not remember removeing the radiator either but you do alot more of these then I do these days. I have not had to touch a 22RE other then routine maintence in the last 5 years!

Toyota steve that is interesting about the Compressors and drag. What do think accounts for this. Do you think that it is because 134A is so much less efficent the R12? I know that the operateing pressures are insane for 134A as compared to R12. When did they switch to R134A it was in the mid 1990's right? DO you think it is the size? I have noticed that most compressors have gotten smaller in size over the years. I have noticed that compressors get alot hotter now then when I was a tech.

I saw a product that might be of interest to those in the south. I saw a product that is called the variable orfice. It replaces your standard orfice tube with one that is variable. It kind of reminds me of the metering rods on a Carter carb. It makes to strong claims and does have a U.S. Patent!

I had one other qustion for you. With old Bosch system the fuel would be enriched when four wheel drive was activated to increase low end torgue. Could you simply trick the computer into thinking that it was in four wheel drive? Did the newer systems elimanate this feature?

[ September 14, 2003, 10:36 PM: Message edited by: JohnBrowning ]

 

[Toyota Steve]

Wow John, lotsa questions.. lets see if I can remember them... 1st, the timing chain guides are steel, with the rubberized coating. They are very simply the oe type guide used from 1975 to 1982, cut down to fit the late model engine. 2nd, the compressor drag has nothing to do with 134, it strictly the design. I have done a fair # of 134 changeovers, and the pressures on the toyota's are the same as the r12 uses. It's just the actual compressor dragging. the 89 up compressor is a little bit bigger, I dunno why they suck so much power, but yes, it's the compressor. 3rd, on fuel enrichment - yes, install a variable resistor ( I think it's 500mv)inline between the coolant temp sensor and the computer, and dial in the mixture to richen or lean. be careful on an auto trans application, as it can screw up the shift points. Sorry, haven't done it with a Taco yet, like I said, they're just starting to trickle in... Steve

 

[Al]

Steve:

I must be brain dead here. I have the viscous clutch in the fan. Like I said when it kicks in power is flat out not there. Its actually worse than the A/C. It's always been that way. The truck is a 94 and just after I bought it I took it in and the Tech said it was normal. He did seem to know what he was talking about. Fortunately in winter it seldom comes on as does the AC. I can't imagine 4WD in deep snow with the AC and fan clutch on. I'd have to go down to 4WD-L

Thanks.

[ September 15, 2003, 02:29 PM: Message edited by: Al ]

 

[Toyota Steve]

Al - I kow what you mean now. Go to the parts store and get an aftermarket viscous clutch. They're looser than the factory ones by far, but still get the job done. Be sure to get one that's thermally activated. I did it with mine. Steve

 

[Al]

Thanks-I appreciate that

 

[wulimaster]

quote:

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Originally posted by GoHack:

If I remember correctly, the recommended replacement of the timing chain and tensioner on the 22RE is between 130,000 to 150,000 miles max. Having it checked starting around 130,000 miles. I'm sure they can go earlier, depending on maintenance history.

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Mine has been making noise but only at high rpm right before the auto shift point. I thought it was a loose belt but I replace the belts and it still remained. I checked last week and found my plastice guide was completely gone and the chain was rubbing against the cover. I was on my way to Lake Havasu last weekend so I picked up a new timing chain kit with metal guides at LC Engineering while I was there.

Point is, I have been running Amsoil 10w30 with a bypass since new and no oil will protect plastic from breaking under the heat with age. My 92 4x4 has 105k on the odometer and about 110k actual miles.