Where in Wisconsin is this? I am roughly between Milwaukee and Madison. Thanks.
What is the best engine flush? (not arx)
- Thread starter bigwillie
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If you can't find the Neutra, I would go with MMO for a couple of hundred miles at 2 oz. per quart of oil.
Then I would A-Rx it as a maintnence dose continually.
Then I would A-Rx it as a maintnence dose continually.
Groucho Marks, What and the heck is 2 onces per quart of MMO going to do? 1 Quart of MMO+ 3.5 Quarts of oil did nothing in 500 miles of driveing in my 1997 Buick. Now addmitedly I was not trying to tackle sludge just varnish as I had already tried Auto-Rx a year earlier. 2 onces of MMO perquart of oil is going to be about as effective as peeing on a forest fire! Most people that use MMO religiously use 1 whole quart added to their crankcase every oil change with no fanfare for the whole OCI! I think that anything less then 1 quart of MMO per oil change added to the oil is not going to do anything to clean out the engine!
I recommend what I do yearly on our vehicles, prior to the 25m ARX run (where the usual synth is substituted for dino during wash & rinse phases):
Pull the sparkplugs (on an engine thats been run a good 30-miles or more, with some WOT blasts), put 2-3 ozs LC20 in each cylinder. After one hour, rotate engine but one full turn, no more.
Top off each cylinder. Be sure LC20 added to meet or exceed 4-oz per quart oil capacity.
Next morning, cover cylinder bank with old bath towels, spin over engine several times to get any LC that has not made it past rings out of engine.
In well-ventilated area (street versus drive) re-install old plugs, start vehicle, let idle 10-minutes or until coolant fully-warmed. (Smoky).
Take car for easy run, allowing a decent warm-up of other components, and take some WOT blasts from about 30-50 mph. (West Nile Virus Mosquito fogger).
I then ease along to the local freeway and run home along it; a route that carries me about 15-miles, start to finish. (Everone is waiting for your engine to seize. I wave and smile, sometimes stand on it again.)
Do an oil/filter change, and install new spark plugs.
This is what we used to do on cars back in the days of points ignition and carbon build-up that today would be considered excessive. Only we used GUNK or MMO or some other solvent that one NEVER WOULD ATTEMPT TO DRIVE CAR!!!! Only allow it to idle on the high step of the choke (usually 15-1800 rpm, sometimes higher), NEVER putting a load on the engine.
And then change oil/filter again at 500 miles. And again at 2000-3000. No telling -- on a less-well-maintained vehicle -- what trash might come loose in engine.
I also, on a car with unknown history, but some detective work, would also run a butyl-cellosolve cleaner through if it looked as though coolant had ever gotten into oil. Or, a Chev small-block, when the fuel pump failed and the oil system was filled with gasoline (thus, water).
Stick with the winners, don't reinvent the wheel.
I have no experience with NEUTRA, but am a real LUBE CONTROL fan. It's cheap, it has a jillion uses, and it works as advertised.
Pull the sparkplugs (on an engine thats been run a good 30-miles or more, with some WOT blasts), put 2-3 ozs LC20 in each cylinder. After one hour, rotate engine but one full turn, no more.
Top off each cylinder. Be sure LC20 added to meet or exceed 4-oz per quart oil capacity.
Next morning, cover cylinder bank
In well-ventilated area (street versus drive) re-install old plugs, start vehicle, let idle 10-minutes or until coolant fully-warmed. (Smoky).
Take car for easy run, allowing a decent warm-up of other components, and take some WOT blasts from about 30-50 mph. (West Nile Virus Mosquito fogger).
I then ease along to the local freeway and run home along it; a route that carries me about 15-miles, start to finish. (Everone is waiting for your engine to seize. I wave and smile, sometimes stand on it again.)
Do an oil/filter change, and install new spark plugs.
This is what we used to do on cars back in the days of points ignition and carbon build-up that today would be considered excessive. Only we used GUNK or MMO or some other solvent that one NEVER WOULD ATTEMPT TO DRIVE CAR!!!! Only allow it to idle on the high step of the choke (usually 15-1800 rpm, sometimes higher), NEVER putting a load on the engine.
And then change oil/filter again at 500 miles. And again at 2000-3000. No telling -- on a less-well-maintained vehicle -- what trash might come loose in engine.
I also, on a car with unknown history, but some detective work, would also run a butyl-cellosolve cleaner through if it looked as though coolant had ever gotten into oil. Or, a Chev small-block, when the fuel pump failed and the oil system was filled with gasoline (thus, water).
Stick with the winners, don't reinvent the wheel.
I have no experience with NEUTRA, but am a real LUBE CONTROL fan. It's cheap, it has a jillion uses, and it works as advertised.
Hmm...I'm not sure if pulling spark plugs out of a hot cylinder head is the best idea. Especially if you're dealing with a car with aluminum cylinder heads.
JB, 2 oz of MMO is about half a quart. I'm glad you've had success using 25% of your sump with MMO. I wouldn't recommend it to someone else even if I did it myself as I am less inclined to experiment on someone else's vehicle. If I did , I would tell him to use 100% MMO and ATF in his gas tank.
I appreciate your knowledge in your posts, I just come from a different place.
I appreciate your knowledge in your posts, I just come from a different place.
I've used the Amsoil flush since they came out with it in 1980 and it does a very good job if the engine is only moderately dirty. I recommend a slight variation on the instructions listed on the bottle. I run the engine in neutral (not under load) at two times the normal idle speed for a full 30 minutes.
I'm currently testing both the LC20 and FP60 in a number of applications (engines, hydraulic systems, etc). It also shows promise as an engine flush, based on what I've seen so far.
I'd recommend adding two ounces for every quart of sump capacity and running that combination for 1000-1500 miles - preferrably on the highway with elevated oil temps. If most of your driving is stop and go and short trips, you probably want to run the LC20 for 2000-3000 miles.
Tooslick
I'm currently testing both the LC20 and FP60 in a number of applications (engines, hydraulic systems, etc). It also shows promise as an engine flush, based on what I've seen so far.
I'd recommend adding two ounces for every quart of sump capacity and running that combination for 1000-1500 miles - preferrably on the highway with elevated oil temps. If most of your driving is stop and go and short trips, you probably want to run the LC20 for 2000-3000 miles.
Tooslick
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