Amsoil Engine Flush. Procedure, Filter Observations and future UOAs.

[Robvette]

Here’s the process I used to complete a thorough Amsoil Engine Flush on our 2006 Toyota Prius with 275,000 miles on it. I also captured before flush and after flush used oil samples that I will be sending to our local Carter CAT SOS Fluid Analysis lab to answer the question: Does Amsoil Engine Flush do anything? Stay tuned for a follow up post and video once the lab results are back!

I know many recommend never doing a engine flush, but this 06 Prius seems to be harder on oil than our 05 Prius, and I have no idea what type of oil was used for the first 220,000 of it's life ... so my thinking was "let's give an engine flush a try".

In addition to the upcoming before flush and after flush UOAs, I will also do another UOA in 5k miles.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

What do you expect to see in the UOAs that will validate whether or not the flush “worked”? Honest question.

 

[Robvette]

What do you expect to see in the UOAs that will validate whether or not the flush “worked”? Honest question.

I don’t know! It’ll be interesting to see if the two UOAs are significantly different.

I have a handful of UOAs for this car, it generally has elevated lead. We got the car for $2200 with 220k miles and we’ve driven it about 55k miles all at 40+ mpg so it’s been a reliable, $$ saving, good running commuter car.

 

[jtay2024]

I'm intrigued how much that all cost (without the oil analysis included). The filters seem cheap enough to throw away, the oil and flush I imagine added up quite a bit.

 

[Lubener]

Unless there's a specific problem you are trying to resolve, I fail to see the reason for an engine flush, especially at 275k miles on the engine.

 

[demarpaint]

Too many variables imo for an experiment. At the very least I would have used the same oil across the board.

 

[Kira]

Love, love, love the lighting in your video. Original, if a little shaky.

 

[Robvette]

Too many variables imo for an experiment. At the very least I would have used the same oil across the board.

UOA #1 - used oil sampled just prior to adding flush

Flush added and engine run for 20 minutes, then

UOA #2 - taken ~25 minutes after sample 1, contains used oil, Amsoil Engine Flush and whatever the flush was able to clean from internal engine surfaces and suspend in the oil.

Note: oil sample #1 was captured using a UOA vacuum pump and using the “double dump” merhod of insuring a representative sample, whereby you insert the oil sampling tube roughly 1/2 way into the oil sump, pump until the UOA container is 1/2 full, remove the container from the pump, cap it, shake it and then dump that sample. Repeat. Then the 3rd time you pump until the UOA container is almost full, remove, cap and send that to the lab. The two discarded 1/2 samples are to insure that any contaminants or dust from inside the sampling tubing or the UOA container are rinsed away before the representative sample is captured.

I'm intrigued how much that all cost

Engine Flush $12 x 2
Super Tech Oil $17
Quaker State Oil $19
Super Tech Filters $4 x 2
Total Engine Flush Cost = $58

Unless there's a specific problem you are trying to resolve

I’ve done some prior UOAs on this car with consistently elevated lead and not great cleanliness scores. It’ll be interesting to see if future UOAs trend differently:
4 previous UOAs:

Love, love, love the lighting in your video. Original, if a little shaky.

I should have started this process earlier! Finishing at night does yield some cool images!

 

[Pablo]

You have a silky voice.

I think I said that before. Were you a professional announcer or similar?

 

[Robvette]

You have a silky voice.

I think I said that before. Were you a professional announcer or similar?

no! But in each career I’ve had I’ve done a bunch of the promo videos and social media. I now work in traffic engineering, here’s a preview of a project that we’re now finishing up:

 

[jtay2024]

Engine Flush $12 x 2
Super Tech Oil $17
Quaker State Oil $19
Super Tech Filters $4 x 2
Total Engine Flush Cost = $58

Not bad at all then cost wise!

 

[mcrn]

This is a cool experiment. Thank you for doing the work and sharing the info. I am curious to see the results.

 

[cronk]

Looking forward to your results.
The Amsoil flush seems to be a good product for general engine cleaning.
If you are trying to lower oil consumption, I'd suggest you try BG EPR, it's specifically made to clean the rings and restore compression and lower oil consumption.

 

[TiGeo]

I've done the same with a different product and posted results here a few years ago. I saw no real difference between pre- and post- flush samples beyond the slight drop in viscosity from the flush itself. Will be interested of course in your results.

 

[LeakySeals]

I’m here because I couldn’t resist the recent purchase of a 2013 equinox 2.4. The price was right and it was in great condition. It’s been a few months. No issues so far. After joining a couple of equinox groups, it seems like most posts about the 2012–2016 2.4 equinox complain about consuming massive amounts of oil, VVT oil control solenoid CELs, PCV systems plugged. From what I read, it’s a combination of direct injection and poor maintenance. Late on oil changes, getting low on oil. Fuel dilution.

It’s been 3K since the initial oil change with M1EP. The oil on the stick has not moved so looks like I got a good one. However, compared to my other vehicles, this oil is super black. Almost gooey. So I suspect the engine is dirty.

Should I try a flush just to be on the safe side? Continue on with M1 EP short 4–5 K oil changes? Any other recommendations to speed the cleanup so I don’t end up with another oil burning 2.4

 

[twX]

I’ve done some prior UOAs on this car with consistently elevated lead and not great cleanliness scores.

That much lead and copper is usually a sign of excess wear in the rod bearings or main bearings. I'm guessing the previous owner starved the engine of oil at some point. Sometimes when wear rates are really high, it can take a lot of time for wear rates to return to normal, though they may never go back to completely normal levels. Cleaning some deposits from the engine might help the piston rings, but it's unlikely to do anything for the bearings.

Lead has gone from 78 ppm in 3k miles to 26 ppm in 11k miles, so I'd consider that to be a win. I'd stick with the Mobil 1 10W-40, since a thick grade is probably more appropriate for the worn bearings. I'd also keep the OCIs shorter than 11k on such a battleworn engine.

 

[dumkid]

I’m here because I couldn’t resist the recent purchase of a 2013 equinox 2.4. The price was right and it was in great condition. It’s been a few months. No issues so far. After joining a couple of equinox groups, it seems like most posts about the 2012–2016 2.4 equinox complain about consuming massive amounts of oil, VVT oil control solenoid CELs, PCV systems plugged. From what I read, it’s a combination of direct injection and poor maintenance. Late on oil changes, getting low on oil. Fuel dilution.

It’s been 3K since the initial oil change with M1EP. The oil on the stick has not moved so looks like I got a good one. However, compared to my other vehicles, this oil is super black. Almost gooey. So I suspect the engine is dirty.

Should I try a flush just to be on the safe side? Continue on with M1 EP short 4–5 K oil changes? Any other recommendations to speed the cleanup so I don’t end up with another oil burning 2.4

Continue with short oil change intervals and see if it gets better is what I would do. Maybe run a small amount of a cleaner like the hpl EC or maybe a little bit of MMO if you want to

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

I’m here because I couldn’t resist the recent purchase of a 2013 equinox 2.4. The price was right and it was in great condition. It’s been a few months. No issues so far. After joining a couple of equinox groups, it seems like most posts about the 2012–2016 2.4 equinox complain about consuming massive amounts of oil, VVT oil control solenoid CELs, PCV systems plugged. From what I read, it’s a combination of direct injection and poor maintenance. Late on oil changes, getting low on oil. Fuel dilution.

It’s been 3K since the initial oil change with M1EP. The oil on the stick has not moved so looks like I got a good one. However, compared to my other vehicles, this oil is super black. Almost gooey. So I suspect the engine is dirty.

Should I try a flush just to be on the safe side? Continue on with M1 EP short 4–5 K oil changes? Any other recommendations to speed the cleanup so I don’t end up with another oil burning 2.4

Peruse the many HPL threads on the site here. It’s tough, if not impossible, to beat products that were exclusively designed to do exactly what you’re asking, and formulated with components that have been scientifically proven to do so safely and in-use, rather than being so impactful to the overall mixture that all you can do is run it at idle, and just before an oil change as most all flushes specify for use.

Which do you think will work better: something fully formulated, that stays in for an entire OCI and does not reduce the effectiveness of your oil; or something third-party that you dump into dirty oil just before an oil change and remove it in 15 minutes? Your engine didn’t get dirty overnight or in 15 minutes; to clean it effectively and safely requires a longer period of time. Plus, at the recommended ratio, HPL EC is no more expensive than any of the less-effective “one hot minute” flushes.

 

[LeakySeals]

Peruse the many HPL threads on the site here. It’s tough, if not impossible, to beat products that were exclusively designed to do exactly what you’re asking, and formulated with components that have been scientifically proven to do so safely and in-use, rather than being so impactful to the overall mixture that all you can do is run it at idle, and just before an oil change as most all flushes specify for use.

Which do you think will work better: something fully formulated, that stays in for an entire OCI and does not reduce the effectiveness of your oil; or something third-party that you dump into dirty oil just before an oil change and remove it in 15 minutes? Your engine didn’t get dirty overnight or in 15 minutes; to clean it effectively and safely requires a longer period of time. Plus, at the recommended ratio, HPL EC is no more expensive than any of the less-effective “one hot minute” flushes.

Thanks. I will go to HPL EC route. Is Premium Blue Restore still a thing? Could I use that? Or continue to use my favorite oils? (M1 EP, PUP) . Thanks again for the info

 

[Plawan]

I’m here because I couldn’t resist the recent purchase of a 2013 equinox 2.4. The price was right and it was in great condition. It’s been a few months. No issues so far. After joining a couple of equinox groups, it seems like most posts about the 2012–2016 2.4 equinox complain about consuming massive amounts of oil, VVT oil control solenoid CELs, PCV systems plugged. From what I read, it’s a combination of direct injection and poor maintenance. Late on oil changes, getting low on oil. Fuel dilution.

It’s been 3K since the initial oil change with M1EP. The oil on the stick has not moved so looks like I got a good one. However, compared to my other vehicles, this oil is super black. Almost gooey. So I suspect the engine is dirty.

Should I try a flush just to be on the safe side? Continue on with M1 EP short 4–5 K oil changes? Any other recommendations to speed the cleanup so I don’t end up with another oil burning 2.4

If it’s not using oil that’s a good sign. Probably no stuck rings and pvc is probably functioning ok.
I’d change the pvc anyway just because it’s a basic maintenance item.
Some engines just run dirty. My Hemi does. I just throw in some Rislone from time to time. A flush will probably not hurt anything if you follow the directions. I’ve had good experiences with Solevent flushes. Cheap ole motor medic helped a lifter tick and it didn’t return after that.
If it’s just a dirty running engine like my Hemi, a flush probably won’t change how dark or how soon subsequent fills turn dark.
For sure a flush will clean something to some degree or another.
Slow cleaners like mmo, riselone or hp ec can help through time if it’s needed too.