what's your experience on different brand of readily available 5w-30 (< $30 for 5 quarts) that has best wear protection? engine is a 4 banger, 2.0L. naturally aspirated. reason I am asking is that i saw, through the oil filling port, the wear mark on the nose of the cam lobe. rest of the lobe surface is OK. car has 15K miles on it. i've been using 5w-20. dealer did change except for the last one when i used conventional pennz. 5w-20. I really wanted to try 5w-30 (which is acceptible by the user manual) for better wear, but could not decide which brand to go with. please help.
what brand of 5w-30 that offers best wear protecti
- Thread starter windeye
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No measurable difference in wear between the brands. Probably no measurable difference between 5w20 and 5w30.
Either we wear you see is normal, or the wear you see is a problem that will not be solved by finding a particular brand/weight of oil.
Either we wear you see is normal, or the wear you see is a problem that will not be solved by finding a particular brand/weight of oil.
OK, here's the list I have, please let me know which you'd use:
1. Castrol Edge 5w-30
2. Valvoline Synpower 5w-30
3. Castrol Syntec 5w-30
4. Mobil 1 5w-30
5. Mobil 1 EP 5w-30
6. Mobil 1 0w-30
7. PP 5w-30
I am leaning toward Castrol Syntec or Valvoline Synpower.....anything i need to be aware of either one?
1. Castrol Edge 5w-30
2. Valvoline Synpower 5w-30
3. Castrol Syntec 5w-30
4. Mobil 1 5w-30
5. Mobil 1 EP 5w-30
6. Mobil 1 0w-30
7. PP 5w-30
I am leaning toward Castrol Syntec or Valvoline Synpower.....anything i need to be aware of either one?
IMO, you will have less engine wear with a synthetic. How much less and whether it is significant is debatable. But I also think that a synthetic has other benefits, such as resistance to sludge, easier start up on cold days due to lower pour point, etc.
Any of the name brand synthetics are good, although some may be a tad better than others.
Even Walmart's SuperTech 100% Synthetic 5W-30 is very good and much better than any conventional oil, and is a bargain to boot.
Personally, I have always used Mobil 1, partly because it works, and because until recently I have not been able to do my own oil changes and every shop has Mobil 1 synthetic. But I am always looking around for new and better ideas.
BTW: Advance Auto Parts has a pretty good sale on M1 until March 25th, especially if you like use a high quality oil filter like the M1 filter. They also have a sale on some other brands, but not sure if those includes synthetics.
Any of the name brand synthetics are good, although some may be a tad better than others.
Even Walmart's SuperTech 100% Synthetic 5W-30 is very good and much better than any conventional oil, and is a bargain to boot.
Personally, I have always used Mobil 1, partly because it works, and because until recently I have not been able to do my own oil changes and every shop has Mobil 1 synthetic. But I am always looking around for new and better ideas.
BTW: Advance Auto Parts has a pretty good sale on M1 until March 25th, especially if you like use a high quality oil filter like the M1 filter. They also have a sale on some other brands, but not sure if those includes synthetics.
Originally Posted By: windeye
OK, here's the list I have, please let me know which you'd use:
1. Castrol Edge 5w-30
2. Valvoline Synpower 5w-30
3. Castrol Syntec 5w-30
4. Mobil 1 5w-30
5. Mobil 1 EP 5w-30
6. Mobil 1 0w-30
7. PP 5w-30
I am leaning toward Castrol Syntec or Valvoline Synpower.....anything i need to be aware of either one?
Both of these are generally believed to be almost all Base III stock, which is hydro-cracked mineral oil and does not have any (or only token) PAO base stock. If you insist on Castrol, go with the Edge. The only exception is Castrol Syntec 0W-30 that is made in Germany (this will be listed on the back of the container).
None of the oils are 100% PAO, but the others probably have substantially more PAO than Castrol Syntec or Valvoline Synpower.
You might also want to read this thread before you decide:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/rolex-24-hours-of-daytona.100806/
OK, here's the list I have, please let me know which you'd use:
1. Castrol Edge 5w-30
2. Valvoline Synpower 5w-30
3. Castrol Syntec 5w-30
4. Mobil 1 5w-30
5. Mobil 1 EP 5w-30
6. Mobil 1 0w-30
7. PP 5w-30
I am leaning toward Castrol Syntec or Valvoline Synpower.....anything i need to be aware of either one?
Both of these are generally believed to be almost all Base III stock, which is hydro-cracked mineral oil and does not have any (or only token) PAO base stock. If you insist on Castrol, go with the Edge. The only exception is Castrol Syntec 0W-30 that is made in Germany (this will be listed on the back of the container).
None of the oils are 100% PAO, but the others probably have substantially more PAO than Castrol Syntec or Valvoline Synpower.
You might also want to read this thread before you decide:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/rolex-24-hours-of-daytona.100806/
Supertech syn used to be a bargain. Now it's $17 a jug.
Go with Quaker State Q Horsepower or Torquepower for $18 jug/$15 jug.
PP or Synpower will do right by you as well.
Be prepared for about 1000 answers.
Go with Quaker State Q Horsepower or Torquepower for $18 jug/$15 jug.
PP or Synpower will do right by you as well.
Be prepared for about 1000 answers.
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Supertech syn used to be a bargain. Now it's $17 a jug.
There has been a lot of speculation of why SuperTech now costs more. Part of that is probably because the general rise in crude prices (motor oil has not retreated yet, even though crude and gasoline has gone down). Another theory is that it is now a much better oil.
Supertech syn used to be a bargain. Now it's $17 a jug.
There has been a lot of speculation of why SuperTech now costs more. Part of that is probably because the general rise in crude prices (motor oil has not retreated yet, even though crude and gasoline has gone down). Another theory is that it is now a much better oil.
Last edited:
1. Castrol Edge 5w-30
2. Valvoline Synpower 5w-30
3. Castrol Syntec 5w-30
4. Mobil 1 5w-30
5. Mobil 1 EP 5w-30
6. Mobil 1 0w-30
7. PP 5w-30
I would use any of those.
I would be less likely to use the Edge due to cost. I would be less likely to use the EP because of cost and I don't do ultra-long drain intervals. Living in NY, you might want to try a 0w30 for cold starting and short-trip fuel economy.
So I guess I would lean towards 2,4,6,7 with cost being the determining factor.
2. Valvoline Synpower 5w-30
3. Castrol Syntec 5w-30
4. Mobil 1 5w-30
5. Mobil 1 EP 5w-30
6. Mobil 1 0w-30
7. PP 5w-30
I would use any of those.
I would be less likely to use the Edge due to cost. I would be less likely to use the EP because of cost and I don't do ultra-long drain intervals. Living in NY, you might want to try a 0w30 for cold starting and short-trip fuel economy.
So I guess I would lean towards 2,4,6,7 with cost being the determining factor.
Originally Posted By: windeye
OK, here's the list I have, please let me know which you'd use:
1. Castrol Edge 5w-30
2. Valvoline Synpower 5w-30
3. Castrol Syntec 5w-30
4. Mobil 1 5w-30
5. Mobil 1 EP 5w-30
6. Mobil 1 0w-30
7. PP 5w-30
I am leaning toward Castrol Syntec or Valvoline Synpower.....anything i need to be aware of either one?
Firstly, none of these are in any way 'bad.' I'd use any of them without worry. Meethinks you worry too much!
That said, if price was removed from the equation, I'd slightly lean toward M1 EP (presumably more additives and possibly improved base stock). After that, it's all a push IMO.
-Moo
OK, here's the list I have, please let me know which you'd use:
1. Castrol Edge 5w-30
2. Valvoline Synpower 5w-30
3. Castrol Syntec 5w-30
4. Mobil 1 5w-30
5. Mobil 1 EP 5w-30
6. Mobil 1 0w-30
7. PP 5w-30
I am leaning toward Castrol Syntec or Valvoline Synpower.....anything i need to be aware of either one?
Firstly, none of these are in any way 'bad.' I'd use any of them without worry. Meethinks you worry too much!
That said, if price was removed from the equation, I'd slightly lean toward M1 EP (presumably more additives and possibly improved base stock). After that, it's all a push IMO.
-Moo
Patman
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Mark888
IMO, you will have less engine wear with a synthetic.
I disagree. Looking over all the UOAs we've had on here over the years, there is no advantage in terms of engine wear when running synthetic over conventional. It's not as if oils made with a synthetic base are "more slippery" That's definitely not the case at all.
IMO, you will have less engine wear with a synthetic.
I disagree. Looking over all the UOAs we've had on here over the years, there is no advantage in terms of engine wear when running synthetic over conventional. It's not as if oils made with a synthetic base are "more slippery" That's definitely not the case at all.
Originally Posted By: Patman
Originally Posted By: Mark888
IMO, you will have less engine wear with a synthetic.
I disagree. Looking over all the UOAs we've had on here over the years, there is no advantage in terms of engine wear when running synthetic over conventional. It's not as if oils made with a synthetic base are "more slippery" That's definitely not the case at all.
+1. I've seen nothing to lead me to believe that synths offer better wear protection then conventional.
Originally Posted By: Mark888
IMO, you will have less engine wear with a synthetic.
I disagree. Looking over all the UOAs we've had on here over the years, there is no advantage in terms of engine wear when running synthetic over conventional. It's not as if oils made with a synthetic base are "more slippery" That's definitely not the case at all.
+1. I've seen nothing to lead me to believe that synths offer better wear protection then conventional.
Originally Posted By: Patman
I disagree. Looking over all the UOAs we've had on here over the years, there is no advantage in terms of engine wear when running synthetic over conventional. It's not as if oils made with a synthetic base are "more slippery" That's definitely not the case at all.
Studies have been done over long intervals (100K+ miles) that show there is less wear in engines with a high quality synthetic. Whether or not one considers the wear difference significant is another issue, but it has been measured after engine tear-down.
I personally don't believe that a UOA is a good indication of long term engine wear, or even of lack of such wear.
I disagree. Looking over all the UOAs we've had on here over the years, there is no advantage in terms of engine wear when running synthetic over conventional. It's not as if oils made with a synthetic base are "more slippery" That's definitely not the case at all.
Studies have been done over long intervals (100K+ miles) that show there is less wear in engines with a high quality synthetic. Whether or not one considers the wear difference significant is another issue, but it has been measured after engine tear-down.
I personally don't believe that a UOA is a good indication of long term engine wear, or even of lack of such wear.
Originally Posted By: Patman
Originally Posted By: Mark888
IMO, you will have less engine wear with a synthetic.
I disagree. Looking over all the UOAs we've had on here over the years, there is no advantage in terms of engine wear when running synthetic over conventional. It's not as if oils made with a synthetic base are "more slippery" That's definitely not the case at all.
I agree 100%
Originally Posted By: Mark888
Studies have been done over long intervals (100K+ miles) that show there is less wear in engines with a high quality synthetic. Whether or not one considers the wear difference significant is another issue, but it has been measured after engine tear-down.
I personally don't believe that a UOA is a good indication of long term engine wear, or even of lack of such wear.
Well just then ignore the facts. Plenty (more with conventional oil than Syn) make it to 100k, 200k and beyond just fine using conventional oils.
And that is over DECADES of service. I've personally done 300k+ and many 200k+ engines with yesterdays conventional oils. And todays are much better.
Syn is NOT the end all of motor oils. Just because you run Syn does not mean you will make it longer than if you ran conventional.
It does mean you spent a lot of $$ than in the end unless you engine REQUIRES it (most (over 90% don't) you are not getting your $$ worth.
But its your $$.
Bill
Originally Posted By: Mark888
IMO, you will have less engine wear with a synthetic.
I disagree. Looking over all the UOAs we've had on here over the years, there is no advantage in terms of engine wear when running synthetic over conventional. It's not as if oils made with a synthetic base are "more slippery" That's definitely not the case at all.
I agree 100%
Originally Posted By: Mark888
Studies have been done over long intervals (100K+ miles) that show there is less wear in engines with a high quality synthetic. Whether or not one considers the wear difference significant is another issue, but it has been measured after engine tear-down.
I personally don't believe that a UOA is a good indication of long term engine wear, or even of lack of such wear.
Well just then ignore the facts. Plenty (more with conventional oil than Syn) make it to 100k, 200k and beyond just fine using conventional oils.
And that is over DECADES of service. I've personally done 300k+ and many 200k+ engines with yesterdays conventional oils. And todays are much better.
Syn is NOT the end all of motor oils. Just because you run Syn does not mean you will make it longer than if you ran conventional.
It does mean you spent a lot of $$ than in the end unless you engine REQUIRES it (most (over 90% don't) you are not getting your $$ worth.
But its your $$.
Bill
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Well just then ignore the facts. Plenty (more with conventional oil than Syn) make it to 100k, 200k and beyond just fine using conventional oils.
And that is over DECADES of service. I've personally done 300k+ and many 200k+ engines with yesterdays conventional oils. And todays are much better.
I never said that an engine will stop working, or even stop working well, on conventional oil compared to synthetic. I am talking about measurable engine wear of the actual engine components after engine tear-down. I also said that even if there is less measurable engine wear with synthetic, it may not be significant or anything to worry about.
Subjective evaluation of engine performance is not the same as measuring the engine components after engine tear-down.
Well just then ignore the facts. Plenty (more with conventional oil than Syn) make it to 100k, 200k and beyond just fine using conventional oils.
And that is over DECADES of service. I've personally done 300k+ and many 200k+ engines with yesterdays conventional oils. And todays are much better.
I never said that an engine will stop working, or even stop working well, on conventional oil compared to synthetic. I am talking about measurable engine wear of the actual engine components after engine tear-down. I also said that even if there is less measurable engine wear with synthetic, it may not be significant or anything to worry about.
Subjective evaluation of engine performance is not the same as measuring the engine components after engine tear-down.
Originally Posted By: ctc
Oh, here we go....
LMAO!!!!! I know, these questions I tell ya...
Oh, here we go....
LMAO!!!!! I know, these questions I tell ya...
People sure like to argue on these boards. I guess I am the first to be surprised at seeing wear on the cam lobe at 15K. Sure it is wear visible just by eye? That's a lot of wear. It is concerning to me because I have a 14K engine also, but no way to "look" at the lobs. Concerned because of all the ad hype about X wear over Mobil 1 5w-30, and that is what I chose for the newer car just before hype came out. The older car got the PP 5-30. Also concerned because zddp is lower in SM oils and most high mileage stories are based on pre SM I assume. Maybe RP has a point in staying SL. I never had a cat problem in decades, and my 07 still has SL on the cap.
Cam lobe wear at 15,000 miles?
That is too early , for sure.
Maybe you see the initial machining pattern burnished smooth?
But it most likely is faulty materials, not poor oil.
Have it checked by the dealer under warranty, and get it in writing that there is a problem there.
A synthetic oil would not have improved things at this point.
That is too early , for sure.
Maybe you see the initial machining pattern burnished smooth?
But it most likely is faulty materials, not poor oil.
Have it checked by the dealer under warranty, and get it in writing that there is a problem there.
A synthetic oil would not have improved things at this point.
Originally Posted By: Mark888
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Supertech syn used to be a bargain. Now it's $17 a jug.
There has been a lot of speculation of why SuperTech now costs more. Part of that is probably because the general rise in crude prices (motor oil has not retreated yet, even though crude and gasoline has gone down). Another theory is that it is now a much better oil.
If we really want an honest answer to that, all we need to look at is the SuperTech oil filter. Since converting to being an E-core, it has not changed any......except for the price. Despite spending $0 on an advertising budget, my local Wal-Mart now charges $3 for most of the common house-branded filters. I'm not saying that it is a bad filter, (and I have used it in the past) but the internal components, especially the plastic tube, have got to be in the category of "cheapest to make". Also remember that Wal-Mart usually gets the cheapest bid on about anything.
As good as it may be, I no longer buy it.
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Supertech syn used to be a bargain. Now it's $17 a jug.
There has been a lot of speculation of why SuperTech now costs more. Part of that is probably because the general rise in crude prices (motor oil has not retreated yet, even though crude and gasoline has gone down). Another theory is that it is now a much better oil.
If we really want an honest answer to that, all we need to look at is the SuperTech oil filter. Since converting to being an E-core, it has not changed any......except for the price. Despite spending $0 on an advertising budget, my local Wal-Mart now charges $3 for most of the common house-branded filters. I'm not saying that it is a bad filter, (and I have used it in the past) but the internal components, especially the plastic tube, have got to be in the category of "cheapest to make". Also remember that Wal-Mart usually gets the cheapest bid on about anything.
As good as it may be, I no longer buy it.
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