5W-30 in Ford 2.5L, 3.3L, 3.5L, 3.7L?

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Fordiesel69

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So I understand that the 5w-20 vs 5w-30 pro's and cons have been debated to a point that peoples eyes have crossed. My question is not about what is better. I would like to know how the 5w-30 will interact with the cam phasers & how the PCM calibration being for 5w-20 on these engines:

2013 Ford Interceptor Sedan 3.7L or 3.5L
2014 Ford Fusion 2.5L N/A
2018 F150 3.3L (especially interested in this one as it is GDI and Port fuel injected with cam phasers.
 
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If you are not worried about a percent or two on your fuel economy then 5w30 is the way to go. More viscosity protection, less wear.

Have been running 10w30, 5w30, 0w30 and 5w40 in a 2014 F150 with the NA v6 for a few years now. Would not run 0w20 or 5w20 in anything unless the climate demanded it.
 
Open the manual I'm sure they're all fine running 5w-30 oil.
What does 5w-30 do the the cam phaser? Probably the exact same thing that 5w-20 does when it's 20 degrees f cooler and a few cSt thicker.
Both 5w-20 and 5w-30 are almost the same thickness, thousands of cSt when it's cold out and it doesn't hurt anything.
The only thing you probably don't want to do is fill it up with 20w-50 oil for an oil change during the winter.
 

VVT and thicker oil

I recently read an article vehicles with Variable Valve Timing, it is important to stay with the specified oil grade, or it can throw a code, cause the vehicle to run rough because the timing is slightly off, oil is not getting to where it needs to.. Neither here nor there, there is a lot of...
bobistheoilguy.com
 
Fordiesel69 said:
So I understand that the 5w-20 vs 5w-30 pro's and cons have been debated to a point that peoples eyes have crossed. My question is not about what is better. I would like to know how the 5w-30 will interact with the cam phasers & how the PCM calibration being for 5w-20 on these engines:

2013 Ford Interceptor Sedan 3.7L or 3.5L
2014 Ford Fusion 2.5L N/A
2018 F150 3.3L (especially interested in this one as it is GDI and Port fuel injected with cam phasers.
Click to expand...
No issues at all on any of them
 
Glenda W. said:

VVT and thicker oil

I recently read an article vehicles with Variable Valve Timing, it is important to stay with the specified oil grade, or it can throw a code, cause the vehicle to run rough because the timing is slightly off, oil is not getting to where it needs to.. Neither here nor there, there is a lot of...
bobistheoilguy.com
Click to expand...
That's just OEMs propaganda trying to scare you into using 5w-20 so they get max points for cafe numbers. Plus it wears out engines faster so OEMs get to sell more cars. Running 5w-20 oil only appears to benefit the OEMs.
Just don't run 20w-50 oil in the winter and you'll be fine.
 
oil pan 4 said:
That's just OEMs propaganda trying to scare you into using 5w-20 so they get max points for cafe numbers. Plus it wears out engines faster so OEMs get to sell more cars. Running 5w-20 oil only appears to benefit the OEMs.
Just don't run 20w-50 oil in the winter and you'll be fine.
Click to expand...
Oh I know. Just figured the op could read the whole thread.
 
I ran 5w-20 conventional in my 3.5l n/a Taurus, then switched over to 5w-30 syn, and there was absolutely no difference in startability or performance or fuel economy. Further, all those engines you mention which are spec'd for 5w-20 in the US/Canada are also spec'd for 5w-30 in Mexico and elsewhere ...

The Ford Cyclone engines, as well as the 2.0/2.5 engines, are very easy on lubes and simply won't care one way or another. If you want one lube for all of them any 20 or 30 grade will suffice with no issues whatsoever in terms of the cam phasers, etc.
 
Funny thing that most people don’t know:

My 2010 Ford Taurus SHO with the 3.5 Ecoboost is recommended by Ford to use 5w-20. 2010 Taurus was the first to get the 3.5 Ecoboost. My Taurus now has 113k miles. Only internal engine work I’ve ever done was the internal water pump at around 80k miles. The cam phasers and the timing chain had zero wear. I just threw them back in, I did not replace those.

Starting 2011 or 2013 model year (can’t remember) Ford started recommending 5w-30 in Taurus SHO’s.

Now, I’ve had this 2010 Taurus SHO since day one. Bought it new back in 2010. I’ve always used 5w-20. Never had issues. I’ve even tried 0w-20, and everything was great. Went 5k miles with that 0w-20. No issues.

I’ve also tried 5w-30 in recent years, but I can’t tell a difference at all. Right now I have pennzoil platinum 5w-20. Car runs amazing, and there is no issues with the original cam phasers or the original timing chain (verified with a scan tool that shows live cam phaser degree readings). I always change the oil every 4-5k miles.

So, If my 2010 3.5 Ecoboost can run on 5w-20 for 113k miles with zero issues, i do not see why a n/a 3.5 can’t run on 5w-20.
 
Fordiesel69 said:
So I understand that the 5w-20 vs 5w-30 pro's and cons have been debated to a point that peoples eyes have crossed. My question is not about what is better. I would like to know how the 5w-30 will interact with the cam phasers & how the PCM calibration being for 5w-20 on these engines:

2013 Ford Interceptor Sedan 3.7L or 3.5L
2014 Ford Fusion 2.5L N/A
2018 F150 3.3L (especially interested in this one as it is GDI and Port fuel injected with cam phasers.
Click to expand...
That’s also been debated to a point where peoples eyes have crossed. See Glenda W’s post above.

That’s not the only thread, there are others that I linked in that thread. After being on here for nearly 20 years I’m surprised you haven’t seen them.
 
oil pan 4 said:
That's just OEMs propaganda trying to scare you into using 5w-20 so they get max points for cafe numbers. Plus it wears out engines faster so OEMs get to sell more cars. Running 5w-20 oil only appears to benefit the OEMs.
Just don't run 20w-50 oil in the winter and you'll be fine.
Click to expand...
Have you done this? I did two weeks ago-
I pulled a 5,000 pound travel trailer with a Silverado 5.3 up a 9,000 foot mountain pass in 90 degree weather (destination Leadville, CO) in a motor running 0w/20.
If you have done this...please state.
0W/20 wearing out motors faster is a nonsensical statement.
 
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CKN said:
0W/20 wearing out motors faster is a nonsensical statement.
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It’s accurate. The wear rate vs. HT/HS is pretty basic physics. It’s not nonsensical, whether it is important to you is another question but it’s not nonsensical. For most people driving under under most conditions it does not matter.

Just like when Honda introduced a 20-grade they called the wear “acceptable”. Thinner oils do not produce less wear. They decrease fuel consumption, but they do not decrease wear.
 
kschachn said:
It’s accurate. The wear rate vs. HT/HS is pretty basic physics. It’s not nonsensical, whether it is important to you is another question but it’s not nonsensical. For most people driving under under most conditions it does not matter.

Just like when Honda introduced a 20-grade they called the wear “acceptable”. Thinner oils do not produce less wear. They decrease fuel consumption, but they do not decrease wear.
Click to expand...
OK-the average age of vehicles is 12.6 years-clearly if it's basic physics - it's not making much of a difference-since the fleet is older than it's ever been. And "thin" oil as defined on here is running in many of those vehicles.
What everybody forgets is that these motors have been manufactured (tight tolerances) to use thin oil. That's not to say thicker oil may not be specified in other markets.
I'm out.
I am not rehashing things that have been rehashed on this forum 100's if not 1,000s of times.
 
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FTTSHO said:
So, If my 2010 3.5 Ecoboost can run on 5w-20 for 113k miles with zero issues, i do not see why a n/a 3.5 can’t run on 5w-20.
Click to expand...

You certainly can use a 20 oil and I'm sure the engine will make it through the warranty period in good shape if the service requirements are met.

I'm also certain the engine would exhibit less wear if it were running the same maintenance on a 30 oil.

You trade engine wear for fuel economy. It's a choice either way.
 
tenderloin said:
Arguing they do not decrease wear but do they increase wear? If not than the increased mpg you stated 20W provides make them a win win.
Click to expand...
Yes it does. The wear vs. HT/HS relationship has been shown here quite a few times. But an HT/HS of about 2.6 is an inflection point so it’s not large. That’s why many manufacturers have back specified 20 grades to older models.

Nevertheless, I was really only replying to the notion that it’s nonsensical. It’s not nonsensical, it exists. Does it matter to most people? No, it does not. Maybe it should for certain operating conditions as some manufacturers note in their owner’s manuals. Maybe I’m just more interested in it due to the length of time I typically keep my vehicles.
 
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