What brakes do you guys use?

I’m pretty thorough on my brake jobs. I wire wheeled and lubed under the rattle clips, used some antizeize, clean the bores and lube the pins everytime with 450 degree rated silicone. On the rear, I did take my angle grinder to the hubs (fronts were new). Nothing hanging up. I can put the car in neutral and the car rolls easily. The pads were extremely tight so I shaved a bit off the ears but not much. I’ve used ebc quite a bit and never had their rotors vibrate when hitting the brakes at any speed. I’ve noticed the last few sets of ebc pads have had QC issues. My nephew and I both had pad knock with their green stuff pads when braking in reverse and the 1st stop in drive. I’ll pull the pads off when I get home and see what’s what.
 
Sounds like you're a brake man like me :)...You know what you're doin !!! From what you're describing, looks like EBC's quality control is going down the drain. Time to find a new brand. Personally, I've had great success with Bosch Quietcast rotors and pads. But, I have sedans and no mountains to contend with either. Best of luck finding something that holds up. May take some trials on different manufacturer's. Who knows where these parts are coming from nowadays. That's the real problem. " Globally sourced" as they say now.
 
Ebc took the green stuff issues seriously. They replaced the pads, no questions asked. I’m not sure about GM but, Nissans caliper bracket has always been sensitive as far as pad fit. I went with advics which is a Japanese oem and they’re fine, but I lost the Ebc bite. I still have the new green stuff pads for next time. My nephew went up to advance and bought their platinum pads since his is a daily driver and he didn’t have time to wait. I’ve got new rotors in the garage so I’ll only be out a few hrs on a Saturday. I’m also considering slapping on the thermo quiets I have in a box and burnishing them in and see if I can’t straighten out the newish Ebc rotors that are on it. I’m leaning towards, filing them has caused uneven pad pressure and pad transfer. But I’d hate to waste new pads and or new rotors if it’s not needed. I also don’t wanna dik with this for a week trying to figure it out.
 
I don't like their wipers either, but I don't understand what does any set of pads have to do with calipers, pins, carrier ? I've used many different pads with my calipers and hardware. Sounds like the calipers were seizing, pins were frozen-rusted, before the pads were installed. Without those items in perfect working condition, any pad will fail.
Had you read my post properly you'd realise I eliminated those components, the binding was caused by the pads.
 
Sorry, improperly read you're post. The pads were you're problem all along. I dunno, on my particular vehicle, the pads are working fine. Maybe they were " Globally Sourced" from a different country. I just received a 10 pack of Toyota OEM oil filters in the mail. Looked on the box, made in Thailand. I have 0% confidence as to where stuff comes from nowadays.
 
Sorry, improperly read you're post. The pads were you're problem all along. I dunno, on my particular vehicle, the pads are working fine. Maybe they were " Globally Sourced" from a different country. I just received a 10 pack of Toyota OEM oil filters in the mail. Looked on the box, made in Thailand. I have 0% confidence as to where stuff comes from nowadays.
Cut one open, this guy's very good actually, he's cut most filters now IMO! They'll be lots of Toyota filters Vs Aftermarket etc

 
Sorry, improperly read you're post. The pads were you're problem all along. I dunno, on my particular vehicle, the pads are working fine. Maybe they were " Globally Sourced" from a different country. I just received a 10 pack of Toyota OEM oil filters in the mail. Looked on the box, made in Thailand. I have 0% confidence as to where stuff comes from nowadays.
Don't worry so much where they're made, here's a good example.

 
7 pages and two months later has anything new been learned? There seems to be a consensus regarding the quality drop of Raybestos E3's. The handful of pros here seem to agree that OEM is still a good choice, but they also seem to identify aftermarket brands that consistently work for them (no callbacks) and stay with that (even Autozone Gold gets a nod this time around). But it was mentioned that the Autozone pad available on the east coast might not be the same available on the west coast. The rest of us shadetree mechanics have experiences all over the place.

Not much has changed. The only consensus is that there is no consensus. A tough situation for OCDer's looking for the silver bullet.
 
I'm currently running Advics in the front on my 13' CRV. GREAT pad. Long lasting, great grab. Dusty-dirty things though. Black soot all over the rims. That's my only complaint. No squeaks, no fade either.
 
All brake fluid is “synthetic” if it’s DOT fluid. It’s a PAG/glycol ether based fluid. The big exception to the rule - mineral fluid systems. But you’ll only find those on older Rolls-Royces/Bentleys, some older Jags and any bike with Shimano or Magura disc brakes.
 
Yes, another thing I learned. I was duped by the bottle. It said " Pure Synthetic DOT 3 fluid "......meanwhile the regular containers did not mention the word synthetic. Who knew ??? Now I know. Thank you.
 
Running higher-tier from the parts store brands here. CQ Platinum in the wife's car, O'Reilly's Brake Best Select Pro in the F-150. Been satisfied with both.
 
And I did a pad slap last night. Changed oil on the parent’s Lexus as well as a brake fluid change. Brakes were at 4mm in the back, 5mm in the front. I had a set of OE pads, same material and all. Left the rear rotors untouched, why molest a good OEM rotor? Also cleaned and lubed the slide pins - they were stiff.

I’ll order a set of pads and shims from Lexus or Toyota.
 
Just to chime in: Bremsen coated rotors and either Wagner QuickStop, OEX or Bosch QuietCast (depends on the price and application). Oh, and DOT4 in everything, regardless if DOT3 is the recommended and new hardware every time.
 
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