What are you working on today?

[CarbonSteel]

I love my BFGs, but they do run on the small side, and I've noticed they wear out quick on anything heavier. I have friends who only ran them on their lifted Cherokee XJs, YJ Wranglers, etc, then had them on a 4-door JK/JL or full-size truck and got half the life out of them. Same goes for the Goodyear Duratrac. Great tires for a lighter 4x4, but put them on something heavier and they wear quick.

Yeah, my JLUR tips the scales at 5700 empty so definitely on the heavier side. I am beginning to question though if more expensive tires are even worth it given the short(er) life of these larger tires.

I liked the Kanati Trail Hogs I had (315/70/17) which are a Duratrac knock-off per se and now they have them in 37x12.50x17 as well as the Kenda Klevers. Both of these run in the $360 per tire range versus $460 for the premiums...

 

[Pablo]

I don't have any huge gripes about the K02's on my Tacoma. They do fine in the snow and rocks and mud. Price was right, but I don't put a bazillion miles on the little truck.

 

[14Accent]

First day of a week of being the single tech at work, so I made the most of it. I'm sure I'll leave something out, but here goes:

Rear wheel cylinder, '96 S10. Patch job for a friend to limp her along until spring
Alternator on a Honda Fit. Hot tip: Honda says to R&R the intake... don't. Pull the EGR adapter, it's studs, and the upper alternator bracket. Unbolt the AC line brackets for flex. The alternator will slide right out
Auxiliary trans cooler on an RX330 for leaks due to corrosion, common issue
Battery in a newer Focus (the one under the cowl)
Silver Star headlight bulbs in a customers Prius. Customer request
Repaired coolant leak on a Sonic 1.4T. Heater hose clamp @ the water outlet was seeping. Cranked it down and bled the system, good to go
Diag blown heater core lines on a Grand Caravan. Those who know, know
Diag failed alternator on a '15 Charger
Engine mount bracket on a CR-V I've been waiting for since last week
Starter in a 2006 Rav4 2.5

I think that's it

 

[Kennedy01]

Monday
Back working at my friend's shop

2019 Ford Explorer
Replaced front brake pads and rotors, changed engine oil

1987 Chevrolet Silverado R10
Replaced rear wheel cylinders, brake shoes and drums, changed engine oil

 

[jeepman3071]

Yeah, my JLUR tips the scales at 5700 empty so definitely on the heavier side. I am beginning to question though if more expensive tires are even worth it given the short(er) life of these larger tires.

I liked the Kanati Trail Hogs I had (315/70/17) which are a Duratrac knock-off per se and now they have them in 37x12.50x17 as well as the Kenda Klevers. Both of these run in the $360 per tire range versus $460 for the premiums...

Yeah for a size that large it might not be worth spending for the better tires if they wear that quick. I really don't have experience with anything larger than a 33x12.50, so I'm not really sure what options there are in that size. I have heard good things about Mickey Thompson and BFG KM3s.

 

[wings&wheels]

Small projects until after the holidays, then some bushing work on the TR6.

Restoring the wheel centers on the 996. The coating became cloudy and the finish was starting to fail after 23 years so I carefully cleaned the clear and loose stuff off with a magic eraser and window cleaner (took a while, but a great gentle abrasive), touched up the emblems with a toothpick and paint then ~10 coats of clear. I'm happy with the result, looks great from a few feet away, we will get a few more years out of them.

 

[Kennedy01]

Tuesday
Working at my friend's shop

1970 Chevrolet C10
Replaced power steering pump and hoses, flushed system

1997 Dodge Ram 1500
Replaced rear brake shoes, wheel cylinders, drums and spring kits

 

[14Accent]

Not as crazy of a day today:

Rear pads/rotors and LF lower control arm on a '15 Explorer
Starter on an '18 Focus 2.0
Heater hoses on the Caravan from yesterday
Went to do a RF LCA on a Legacy that slid into a curb, only to find the hit actually twisted the subframe at the rear mounting point. Insurance is now involved

It's only Tuesday and I'm already forgetting more than I'm remembering. It's a constant barrage of cars in and out. I did forget one from yesterday: 2016 Volvo V60, rear pads and rotors. This is one of those delightful vehicles with the electric parking brake built into the caliper.

I've learned that on European cars, the best bet is to start by hooking up a battery charger set to low, and leaving the ignition on for the entire operation. From putting the calipers into maintenance mode to finalizing the procedure. I can't BEGIN to convey my hatred for EPB's, not to mention electronic shifters.

 

[michaelluscher]

Lost a low beam, might as well sell the darn thing now
I ordered a bulk pack of H9s, much cheaper that way
H9 lifespan has been ~10 months and 10,000 miles, not good but not terrible
I'd rather pay the $6 for the better light output
And the shift indicator needed a 2721

 

[The Critic]

I've learned that on European cars, the best bet is to start by hooking up a battery charger set to low, and leaving the ignition on for the entire operation. From putting the calipers into maintenance mode to finalizing the procedure. I can't BEGIN to convey my hatred for EPB's, not to mention electronic shifters.

I've found that on certain Audi models, if you let the voltage drop too low, it bricks the EPB module.

 

[14Accent]

I've found that on certain Audi models, if you let the voltage drop too low, it bricks the EPB module.

VAG factory service information, I believe, actually INSTRUCT the technician to keep the vehicle powered up and on a charger during service. Volvo had the same warnings: if the voltage drops, you may cause more issues.

I've only encountered one other vehicle equipped with an EPB that's given me an issue: Mazda CX-5's. I've had 3 now that go into maintenance mode just fine, but won't complete the relearn post-repair. Luckily, the EPB motor is easily replaced while the caliper is installed and they aren't obscenely expensive.

 

[92saturnsl2]

Spent the evening replacing the ABS control module on my friend's 2010 Ford Expedition. It's the giant assembly that contains the ABS motor, electronics and six brake lines connecting to it.

I helped him diagnose it a couple months ago, he was getting an "advance-trac disabled" message with brake/ABS lights on the dash. My scan tool was reporting a communications error / controller fault for the ABS module and some quick Googling revealed that this is a semi-common problem.

He bought a used one off Ebay for $100, and aside from a hole in the plastic that houses the electrical components that needed sealed up it worked fine. I was able to reprogram the used part with my scan tool-- it simply had me keep the old one in there to save data, then plug the used one in and re-write it, didn't require a pass-thru device or anything fancy.

Worked fine, took about 3 hours (taking our time) start to finish. Zero codes and advancetrac works fine now. He called around to dealers and they wanted $1,100-1,600. Independent shops weren't much less and some declined stating it was a dealer only repair due to the programming required.

 

[14Accent]

Spent the evening replacing the ABS control module on my friend's 2010 Ford Expedition. It's the giant assembly that contains the ABS motor, electronics and six brake lines connecting to it.

I helped him diagnose it a couple months ago, he was getting an "advance-trac disabled" message with brake/ABS lights on the dash. My scan tool was reporting a communications error / controller fault for the ABS module and some quick Googling revealed that this is a semi-common problem.

He bought a used one off Ebay for $100, and aside from a hole in the plastic that houses the electrical components that needed sealed up it worked fine. I was able to reprogram the used part with my scan tool-- it simply had me keep the old one in there to save data, then plug the used one in and re-write it, didn't require a pass-thru device or anything fancy.

Worked fine, took about 3 hours (taking our time) start to finish. Zero codes and advancetrac works fine now. He called around to dealers and they wanted $1,100-1,600. Independent shops weren't much less and some declined stating it was a dealer only repair due to the programming required.

Was the $1,100-1,600 including a brand new ABS unit? If so, that's really not bad. As far as indy shops turning the job down due to programming, that's fair. As lucrative as it can be for an independent... it also carries quite a bit of up-front cost and continuous liability. My shop does not perform any kind of module flashing, however I am more than happy to tackle a project that requires flashing upon completion. We simply sublet the work to one of the many mobile flashing companies in town.

Also, how did you bleed the unit after installation? Just curious.

 

[92saturnsl2]

Was the $1,100-1,600 including a brand new ABS unit? If so, that's really not bad. As far as indy shops turning the job down due to programming, that's fair. As lucrative as it can be for an independent... it also carries quite a bit of up-front cost and continuous liability. My shop does not perform any kind of module flashing, however I am more than happy to tackle a project that requires flashing upon completion. We simply sublet the work to one of the many mobile flashing companies in town.

I'm pretty sure he said that was total price with new ABS unit included, so I'm with you; I don't consider the dealer price to be too far out of line-- that's not an inexpensive part after all. I guess I'm not all that surprised that the indy places weren't more competitive, given that the part makes up the bulk of the cost.

I fear there's going to be a whole lot of older vehicles driving around with no ABS / stability control systems when these types of repairs cost over $1K.. All the while driven by people who likely have very little or no experience driving a vehicle that doesn't have ABS, which could be quite a surprise in a panic situation or winter conditions to those not so initiated.

I digress, but a $100 repair was much more palatable for a 200K mile vehicle in our case.

Also, how did you bleed the unit after installation? Just curious.

I used the ABS service bleed function in my scan tool, then we flushed brake lines/calipers after (was due for it).

 

[14Accent]

I'm pretty sure he said that was total price with new ABS unit included, so I'm with you; I don't consider the dealer price to be too far out of line-- that's not an inexpensive part after all. I guess I'm not all that surprised that the indy places weren't more competitive, given that the part makes up the bulk of the cost.

I fear there's going to be a whole lot of older vehicles driving around with no ABS / stability control systems when these types of repairs cost over $1K.. All the while driven by people who likely have very little or no experience driving a vehicle that doesn't have ABS, which could be quite a surprise in a panic situation or winter conditions to those not so initiated.

I digress, but a $100 repair was much more palatable for a 200K mile vehicle in our case.



I used the ABS service bleed function in my scan tool, then we flushed brake lines/calipers after (was due for it).

Appreciate the reply! Here in MN, a repair such as yours is NEVER just "remove and replace". Lines rust, bleeders snap, and wiring corrodes.

More than once, I've replaced either a master cylinder or ABS unit and PRAYED that doing a simple "crack the line" bleed brings the system back. So far, I've only been burned once and that was due to customer neglect not installation trouble.

 

[D60]

Just a diagnosis on a '14 Cherokee:
- coolant leak, appears to be lower right of the radiator where the side tank crimps on. I read the hose clamps on these are problematic but it's not coming from any hoses above or nearby.
-weird clunking noise after certain service: the last shop to do front struts did not reinstall either upper clamshell strut retainer.

I also found instructions with actual measurements to make a dipstick for the 9 speed so now I want to machine one just because. They're like $13 so it's NOT about making sense financially..... I just like building stuff with my hands -- and the help of machine tools

 

[D60]

'99 K2500 w Chevy 350:
-new water pump
-new serp belt
-oil change
-noticed the idler pulley sounded like old skate board wheels. For some odd reason I really enjoy "fixing" these with a new bearing. I keep a small stash of 6203's and 6303's just for this reason:

 

[michaelluscher]

My dad is getting old, or he needs new glasses
I tell him not to check/touch the oil, he says he only added 8oz, now it's overfilled
So an impromptu oil change with M1 Euro 0w40 and a long YZZF1 filter
4.5qts brings it right to the full dot on level ground
Surprisingly tan IMO for 2,000 miles, I guess cleaning is taking place

 

[bilibako2]

14 Camry change battery,installed winter tires,oil change big storm tomorrow(Chicago).06 Accord oil change and check all fluids,wiper's.07 Matrix oil change.

 

[radtech91]

2018 Mazda CX-5 - Changed the oil (Mobil1 0W-20 HM and Mazda Oil Filter), did an ATF drain and fill, changed the cabin and engine air filter