AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2024
Haha. Yeah that’s on him he should of asked. How I know it’s filled is if the oil cap is on or I ask if I’m taking over a job. I always tell people for the cars I do if the oil cap is on it has oil in it.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
I do the same thing. Oil cap off means don't forget to add oil! Oil cap on means the minimum oil level has been met; add as necessary.
Sounds like you, your boss need to fire this worthless technician. If he did this
at my work; 1st time he’s gone.Oh boy how I love my weekly visits to the exhaust shop 
Had these parts sitting in the glove box since 2018
Gonna hit those welds with some high temp paint
Although after 17 NYC winters and 151k, is there really a point
Well, it's much quieter, and I didn't have to fight with those front bolts
They have the big oxy torch, I've only got MAPP Pro
Why they had to put (loctite?) on the threads, luckily exhaust is self heating
Unfortunately, there's still a small leak somewhere, a faint ticking under loaded acceleration
But far more exhaust is exiting the tail pipe than has for the past several years
I'll have to get the smoke machine out and pinpoint it
I swear every Toyota I4 has a leak at this front convertor to pipe flange
It's also developed a fairly severe oil leak, I think the lower oil pan has rusted through
Had these parts sitting in the glove box since 2018
Gonna hit those welds with some high temp paint
Although after 17 NYC winters and 151k, is there really a point
Well, it's much quieter, and I didn't have to fight with those front bolts
They have the big oxy torch, I've only got MAPP Pro
Why they had to put (loctite?) on the threads, luckily exhaust is self heating
Unfortunately, there's still a small leak somewhere, a faint ticking under loaded acceleration
But far more exhaust is exiting the tail pipe than has for the past several years
I'll have to get the smoke machine out and pinpoint it
I swear every Toyota I4 has a leak at this front convertor to pipe flange
It's also developed a fairly severe oil leak, I think the lower oil pan has rusted through
Edit. @michaelluscher, do you know my dad???View attachment 119121
View attachment 119122
Shaking my head at this 2005 RAV4 that needs exhaust work
i can’t tell you how many times he did or suggested this. … (admittedly, I followed his direction on this once too….)
Seafoam treatment on the Mini.
Got the spray can with a long tube to spray the stuff into the intake. I started out putting it down the PCV vent hose, but I didn’t think that would get the stuff onto the intake valves like I’d prefer.
On my particular Mini R56, a previous owner had done some PCV delete kit. Not sure what this kit accomplished as it blocks the PCV hole on the lower intake and moves it up to four ports that he tapped into the intake. A year ago, I undid this mod since the little tiny plastic tubes used in this kit crumbled and caused a ton of codes for unmetered air. I blocked the ports and put the original hose back on, and it was fine.
But the misfires began a couple weeks back, and walnut blasting the intake seemed imminent. I got the walnut blasting materials and prepared for the procedure. But I’d thought I’d try the Seafoam treatment first before tackling the walnut blast.
I wasn’t sure the Seafoam shot into the PCV hose was working, but then remembered those little ports right at the intake valves. Yep, the Seafoam hose fits right in and I was able to put it right in where it was needed (with a helper to keep the revs up). Did it work?
I’d say it did. No more misfires or rough and stumbling idle. Idle is smooth and even, with no codes. I still think the job of walnut blasting will do a better job, but for now I’ll run it this way until it becomes an issue in the near future.
Also, I’m nearly done doing a fuel tank swap on the 2010 Crown Victoria I sold my nephew. I’ll grab a pic or two of that one.
That’s a whole other story.
Got the spray can with a long tube to spray the stuff into the intake. I started out putting it down the PCV vent hose, but I didn’t think that would get the stuff onto the intake valves like I’d prefer.
On my particular Mini R56, a previous owner had done some PCV delete kit. Not sure what this kit accomplished as it blocks the PCV hole on the lower intake and moves it up to four ports that he tapped into the intake. A year ago, I undid this mod since the little tiny plastic tubes used in this kit crumbled and caused a ton of codes for unmetered air. I blocked the ports and put the original hose back on, and it was fine.
But the misfires began a couple weeks back, and walnut blasting the intake seemed imminent. I got the walnut blasting materials and prepared for the procedure. But I’d thought I’d try the Seafoam treatment first before tackling the walnut blast.
I wasn’t sure the Seafoam shot into the PCV hose was working, but then remembered those little ports right at the intake valves. Yep, the Seafoam hose fits right in and I was able to put it right in where it was needed (with a helper to keep the revs up). Did it work?
I’d say it did. No more misfires or rough and stumbling idle. Idle is smooth and even, with no codes. I still think the job of walnut blasting will do a better job, but for now I’ll run it this way until it becomes an issue in the near future.
Also, I’m nearly done doing a fuel tank swap on the 2010 Crown Victoria I sold my nephew. I’ll grab a pic or two of that one.
That’s a whole other story.
Getting a Uhaul truck this morning and moving into the new home.
Those welds are horrendous. Looks like stick but I know it was wire feed. I'm guessing he didn't grind off the galvanization or clean any surfaces before starting.Oh boy how I love my weekly visits to the exhaust shop
View attachment 119262
View attachment 119269
Had these parts sitting in the glove box since 2018
View attachment 119264
Gonna hit those welds with some high temp paint
Although after 17 NYC winters and 151k, is there really a point
I'd be incredibly embarrassed to hold myself out as a professional with that kind of work.
edit: he didn't even bother to remove the errant wire kling-on. This doesn't affect functionality but shows the level of "I don't give a #%@!"
Oil change, tire rotation, battery test and MPI on the cousin’s 03 Accord.
Last edited:
Yesterday changed out the window regulator in my dad's F150. Took 2 trips to PNP to get the right one... the extended cab doors are different than regular and crew cabs and we didn't catch that.. thanks Ford. Changed the counterfeit plugs on the 6.0L, at least they wore evenly and didn't chip off. Also fixed the emergency start button on the RV and found a couple unhooked wires, someday I'll have to trace them.. great.
On Saturday I was all set to work on my 1993 Tercel. I had the parts together to do a timing belt job (belt, bearings, timing cover seal, and even the Toyota return spring). I was also going to do the crankshaft and camshaft front seals while I was in there, water pump, coolant, hoses, valve cover, and a valve stem seal job, with rocker spring seals.
I had the work clothes on and was walking toward the car and suddenly realized I didn't want to do it. This things is at 364K and I love it...and have had it for 15 years....but I'm done with working on it and someone else can. I was planning to sell it anyway but now whoever buys it (or gets it for free) will also get a big box of parts in the trunk and can take over. It still runs great and everything that needs work is just regular maintenance or convenience items. Even if someone buys it and doesn't do any of the work at all it will probably make 400k unless they run it out of oil
I think the reason I quit on it is time is just too precious of a commodity nowadays and I've finally come to the point where I don't want to do the work if I don't have to for keeping a daily driver on the road.
I had the work clothes on and was walking toward the car and suddenly realized I didn't want to do it. This things is at 364K and I love it...and have had it for 15 years....but I'm done with working on it and someone else can. I was planning to sell it anyway but now whoever buys it (or gets it for free) will also get a big box of parts in the trunk and can take over. It still runs great and everything that needs work is just regular maintenance or convenience items. Even if someone buys it and doesn't do any of the work at all it will probably make 400k unless they run it out of oil
I think the reason I quit on it is time is just too precious of a commodity nowadays and I've finally come to the point where I don't want to do the work if I don't have to for keeping a daily driver on the road.
Actually last weekend finished a complete rebuild of the rear suspension on the 91 626. Six new lateral arms, struts, strut mounts, strut insulators and a pair of rear brake hoses. All parts Mazda NOS I located over the years via one seller on eBay. Cheap also by a wide margin over Mazda if they even had the stuff.
changed the air filter and CAF on my sister's 2006 Toyota Corolla...this time I installed Ultra-Power filters from RockAuto.com...both were China made and had part numbers matching WIX filters but it is unknown if WIX in fact made them...they seemed similar construction to OEM
Bill
Bill
Relatively easy Monday, as they go:
Rack and outers, front struts and links, rear pads/rotors/calipers on a 2010 Fusion Hybrid.
Outer tie rod on a 2010 Sportage
Front loaded knuckle on a 2012 Compass, couldn't believe my cost on a loaded knuckle with backing plate from the dealer: $292! All I needed to source was an ABS sensor ($26) and a new axle nut ($5). What a time saver vs. fighting with my press!
Sprinkled in a couple diag's and called it a day. Booked out ~12 hours in an 8 hour shift, all while fighting a flare in shoulder pain.
Rack and outers, front struts and links, rear pads/rotors/calipers on a 2010 Fusion Hybrid.
Outer tie rod on a 2010 Sportage
Front loaded knuckle on a 2012 Compass, couldn't believe my cost on a loaded knuckle with backing plate from the dealer: $292! All I needed to source was an ABS sensor ($26) and a new axle nut ($5). What a time saver vs. fighting with my press!
Sprinkled in a couple diag's and called it a day. Booked out ~12 hours in an 8 hour shift, all while fighting a flare in shoulder pain.
Seems like a lot of work for only 12 hours. Based on those descriptions, I expected closer to 20?
Fixed a slow leak on one of my tires plus a tire rotation. Lubed the new stabilizer links, door locks and hinges. Tomorrow I'll check the CVT fluid level, because I noticed a slow leak from the front seal area.
The Fusion booked out most of that, 9.5ish including alignment. The outer TR on the Sportage was 1.0, I didn't even bother to remove the wheel. Plenty of room to pop it in and out. 15 minutes tops, plus another 20 for the toe-n-go.
1.4 on the Compass, it came apart really easy so I had the knuckle replaced in maybe 20 minutes. The couple diag's I grabbed were also quick, 15-20 minute things.
