What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
2006 Malibu 3.5:
-engine oil change
-fixed this blasphemy (not my "repair")
-serviced transmission, these mixing tubs sure are handy
At 128k the fluid looked good and the magnet had very little.
-I think I'll put new wipers on for her, too
-engine oil change
-fixed this blasphemy (not my "repair")
-serviced transmission, these mixing tubs sure are handy
At 128k the fluid looked good and the magnet had very little. -I think I'll put new wipers on for her, too
I love it!!
Over the Thanksgiving break, did rear brakes on a 2017 Prius. Used Duralast Gold pads and Bendix PriorityOne rotors - $20 each but they’re Geomet coated, unheard of at the price. Seems to be stopping fine.
Also gave a friend’s Mustang 5.0 a wash a wax. He said don’t worry about correcting the paint. Used an ancient Harbor Freight DA wirh a yellow pad, Griot’s Ceramic liquid wax. It looks decent enough for an outside car.
Also gave a friend’s Mustang 5.0 a wash a wax. He said don’t worry about correcting the paint. Used an ancient Harbor Freight DA wirh a yellow pad, Griot’s Ceramic liquid wax. It looks decent enough for an outside car.
2011 Ford Escape, 3.0L Duratec. P0205 & P0305, Open injector circuit #5 & Misfire #5......Replaced #5 injector connector.
Then back onto the 8L90.....Pan installed, Primed it with 12 quarts of Dexron HP, Flushed coolers with a whole gallon of A/C Flush,
Got in bolted to the block.
Then back onto the 8L90.....Pan installed, Primed it with 12 quarts of Dexron HP, Flushed coolers with a whole gallon of A/C Flush,
Got in bolted to the block.
8L90 installed, Quick learn & a 53 mile test drive. Very happy with the way it shifts!
Final fluid level check, Install the T-Case skid plate & right transmission heat shield in the AM.
Final fluid level check, Install the T-Case skid plate & right transmission heat shield in the AM.
I can only dream of working on trucks with chassis’s that look like that!8L90 installed, Quick learn & a 53 mile test drive. Very happy with the way it shifts!
Final fluid level check, Install the T-Case skid plate & right transmission heat shield in the AM.
You wouldn't have a hard time finding a job in DFW, Hell.....You could open your own Ford specialty shop & do very well!!
But moving from New England to here would be like moving to a different planet I imagine.
I would love to open my own place, capital is a big issue for that. Plus small kids would make it difficult with the long hours it would require…especially in the beginning.
Most definitely a different planet. I enjoy the cold, despise hot and humid lol. Currently 23 degrees with a real feel of 9. Got the wood stove blazing! I could without rusty vehicles though…
When I finally retire probably will be to New Hampshire or Maine.
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2016
- Messages
- 984
After 21 years, a small leak developed from the passenger side outer CV joint boot on a Volvo V70 with the factory GKN axles:
So I thought I'd get ahead of it before the winter and replace the boot. Purchased a GKN boot kit for cheap off RockAuto and was surprised to see that it was still made in France, just like the original Volvo part. The included grease was "BruMoly" with lots of molybdenum (what a mess). I'm curious which grease GKN includes for the inner tripod joints.
No issues removing the axle but wasted a lot of time trying to figure out how to deal with the snap ring holding the outer joint on the axle. Beat the snot out of it with a brass drift and a BFH to get the joint off (RIP brass drift), and ended up using a zip tie to keep the snap ring compressed during installation (ie beat the snot out of it again with a rubber mallet).
Reassembly was a mess and I ended up using too much grease which made it more difficult than it needed to be. The smaller end didn't want to stay in its groove, and the larger clamp was a pain to compress on the TPE material. I wrenched on it with two 24" breaker bars on the pliers so hopefully it doesn't leak.
Next time around should be much easier, especially with the shorter and easier to manage driver size axle.
I can see why shops only replace axles instead of dealing with this. I didn't want to roll the dice with aftermarket axles though, especially after learning that their "lifetime" warranty is void if the boots are damaged.
So I thought I'd get ahead of it before the winter and replace the boot. Purchased a GKN boot kit for cheap off RockAuto and was surprised to see that it was still made in France, just like the original Volvo part. The included grease was "BruMoly" with lots of molybdenum (what a mess). I'm curious which grease GKN includes for the inner tripod joints.
No issues removing the axle but wasted a lot of time trying to figure out how to deal with the snap ring holding the outer joint on the axle. Beat the snot out of it with a brass drift and a BFH to get the joint off (RIP brass drift), and ended up using a zip tie to keep the snap ring compressed during installation (ie beat the snot out of it again with a rubber mallet).
Reassembly was a mess and I ended up using too much grease which made it more difficult than it needed to be. The smaller end didn't want to stay in its groove, and the larger clamp was a pain to compress on the TPE material. I wrenched on it with two 24" breaker bars on the pliers so hopefully it doesn't leak.
Next time around should be much easier, especially with the shorter and easier to manage driver size axle.
I can see why shops only replace axles instead of dealing with this. I didn't want to roll the dice with aftermarket axles though, especially after learning that their "lifetime" warranty is void if the boots are damaged.
Blew the dash apart on my youngest son's 09 Prius to get at one out-of-spec capacitor inside the speedometer cluster. Did the soldering on my kitchen table without my wife catching on. 
Out with the genuine Toyota part, in with something from a 660-unit assortment I got cheap somewhere. In the picture it's the "leaning tower of electrolyte." It's a well documented problem; a 220uf cap replaces a 100uf that goes out of spec and causes the display to not boot/ stay dark.
Out with the genuine Toyota part, in with something from a 660-unit assortment I got cheap somewhere. In the picture it's the "leaning tower of electrolyte." It's a well documented problem; a 220uf cap replaces a 100uf that goes out of spec and causes the display to not boot/ stay dark.
Saving e-waste from the junk pile, my favorite past-time. My wife doesn't understand it (and likely never will), but she definitely appreciates when something goes haywire and I can repair for pennies on the dollar!Blew the dash apart on my youngest son's 09 Prius to get at one out-of-spec capacitor inside the speedometer cluster. Did the soldering on my kitchen table without my wife catching on.
Out with the genuine Toyota part, in with something from a 660-unit assortment I got cheap somewhere. In the picture it's the "leaning tower of electrolyte." It's a well documented problem; a 220uf cap replaces a 100uf that goes out of spec and causes the display to not boot/ stay dark.
View attachment 313475
Not just that, but you can't get these clusters anywhere. Hack mechanics buy them from junkyards and don't do component level repairs. Seriously, find a 2nd gen Prius in a junkyard, it won't have a cluster.
One of the employees ran into vehicle trouble the other day. His 2016ish GMC half ton ran into electrical issues. Intermittently the cluster, power steering, HVAC and engine would die. It could restart but was on derate and was very eratic. He parked it before we could make some shop room. Now it wont restart.
He cleaned up what is said to be an ignition ground on the passenger side frame near the front wheel. No change. Apparently there is a ground under the dash as well that needs to be checked.
Of course its -22c right now, no dice pulling plastic trim off in this temperature, don't feel like breaking things. Will have to check other grounds, chassis, engine and battery cables. Hopefully get it back on the road early next week as the temperature is set to be less lethal.
He cleaned up what is said to be an ignition ground on the passenger side frame near the front wheel. No change. Apparently there is a ground under the dash as well that needs to be checked.
Of course its -22c right now, no dice pulling plastic trim off in this temperature, don't feel like breaking things. Will have to check other grounds, chassis, engine and battery cables. Hopefully get it back on the road early next week as the temperature is set to be less lethal.
Last night I ran a compression test in a CJ5 with 304. It's lifted and sitting on 35s. Couple that with the low belt line of a CJ hood and that's the easiest V8 plug access ever.
Kinda miss that old simplicity -- if only I didn't hate carburetion so much. And climbing out of a CJ5 is absurd. Dumbest body design ever.
Kinda miss that old simplicity -- if only I didn't hate carburetion so much. And climbing out of a CJ5 is absurd. Dumbest body design ever.
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2026
Caprice at 100,000 miles. Valve cover gaskets.
Mostly Mobil 1 5W=30 or 5W-40 or a mix of them. I just think it was the fastener grommets leaking. I didn't change them during the cam sawp.
Mostly Mobil 1 5W=30 or 5W-40 or a mix of them. I just think it was the fastener grommets leaking. I didn't change them during the cam sawp.
Gotta love a (formerly) inaccessible GFCI under a jetted tub.
