Follow my exploits on my YT channel:So cool, I'm following you now(not really but you brought this on yourself)
https://youtube.com/@karstgeo7290?si=4r5_EvZ_EFcCVUtD
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
https://youtube.com/@karstgeo7290?si=4r5_EvZ_EFcCVUtD
Got the cp3 conversion done on the LML. Had to do much more than anticipated including changing all the drivers side injector pressure lines, high pressure crossover line, fuel pressure sensor and fuel pressure regulator. Fuel lines had lots of rust on them also which was the primary reason to change them (technically one time use but have reused in a pinch, I had to remove these to remove the LH fuel rail to get the crossover line out). It has so much junk in the fuel system. Even the fuel filter had rust inside it. This fuel system has definitely had water in it at some point. At least he went for the fuel filter change. Would have been crazy not to. Even convinced him to change the spin on transmission filter too thankfully . Was ready to pop from rust!
To change this crossover line service info says to remove turbo, and to remove turbo, transmission must come out. Not happening! So after some modification to a casting nub on the LH intake and removing the LH fuel rail, I was able to get it in without too much trouble. These engines are a plumbing nightmare for fuel system stuff in the valley of the engine. Far too many lines in one area all with very specific small bends in many different spots.
I can comfortably say I wouldn’t mind not doing any of these for a while. Way more work than a powerstroke and Cummins. I Still have an EGT sensor to change, but that’s an after thanksgiving job.
Total cost for this job going to be around $7400 Including the cost of the conversion kit (which he provided). Had to replace just about every hose I touched I cludng heater hoses, they were all seized to the metal pipes and had to cut them off and peel them, charge air cooler cold side hose the locks were broken so had to replace that also, had codes for coolant temperature low so changed thermostats and tons of other seals and gaskets. Parts are not cheap for these engines.
I’m my opinion, not worth it at all given the condition of the chassis, but he just bought it and this is what he wants to do and knows about the condition of the chassis. Truck also has nearly 200,000 miles.
To change this crossover line service info says to remove turbo, and to remove turbo, transmission must come out. Not happening! So after some modification to a casting nub on the LH intake and removing the LH fuel rail, I was able to get it in without too much trouble. These engines are a plumbing nightmare for fuel system stuff in the valley of the engine. Far too many lines in one area all with very specific small bends in many different spots.
I can comfortably say I wouldn’t mind not doing any of these for a while. Way more work than a powerstroke and Cummins. I Still have an EGT sensor to change, but that’s an after thanksgiving job.
Total cost for this job going to be around $7400 Including the cost of the conversion kit (which he provided). Had to replace just about every hose I touched I cludng heater hoses, they were all seized to the metal pipes and had to cut them off and peel them, charge air cooler cold side hose the locks were broken so had to replace that also, had codes for coolant temperature low so changed thermostats and tons of other seals and gaskets. Parts are not cheap for these engines.
I’m my opinion, not worth it at all given the condition of the chassis, but he just bought it and this is what he wants to do and knows about the condition of the chassis. Truck also has nearly 200,000 miles.
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It tows a bass boat.
*All the material in the pan is the converter clutch lining, I haven't vacuum tested the valve body yet....But I bet I'll find some of the Pulse Damper Pistons worn out which can cause poor TCC control & burn up.
*The Thermal Bypass has a broken spring cup.....This will cause the unit to overheat from the bypass not opening. Strange thing is not all thermal bypasses used a plastic spring cup but a steel one?? 2014 & up 6L80's can also suffer from this.
I tap the bypass body with a 1/4" NPT tap & install a plug so it will have full time cooler flow.
Got the unit tore down, Inspected, Case washed.....And gathered parts which is the more challenging aspect for me because the time it wastes.
3 different GM dealers, WIT transmission parts, Converter shop & Summit Racing to get everything, Everyone is in "Holiday Mode" whether its on the road or behind the parts counter
It's getting to where my machine shop work is repetitive jobs I've already posted several times...link bars, hydro boost, unit bearings etc etc. I like the work but it's going to pretty much be repetitious posting about every three weeks. Tomorrow I am going to change the oil filter on the F-150. I'm getting some intermittent timing chain "buzz" for a few seconds on cold starts, going to swap the Mobil 1 filter for a plain old motorcraft to see if the issue resolves.
2009 Trailblazer with 255k miles but on a second engine: replace leaking oil pressure sender. Found it significantly overfilled on the dipstick. On a guess I drained 2 qts and that put it just over the high mark -- good enough
It needs a lot more work (rear brakes, one axle seal both front and rear) and it actually drives well and is worth the investment, but the owners are cheap.
1999 Jeep Cherokee: replace rear brake shoes and hardware.
It needs a lot more work (rear brakes, one axle seal both front and rear) and it actually drives well and is worth the investment, but the owners are cheap.
1999 Jeep Cherokee: replace rear brake shoes and hardware.
I feel you on chasing parts!It tows a bass boat.
*All the material in the pan is the converter clutch lining, I haven't vacuum tested the valve body yet....But I bet I'll find some of the Pulse Damper Pistons worn out which can cause poor TCC control & burn up.
*The Thermal Bypass has a broken spring cup.....This will cause the unit to overheat from the bypass not opening. Strange thing is not all thermal bypasses used a plastic spring cup but a steel one?? 2014 & up 6L80's can also suffer from this.
I tap the bypass body with a 1/4" NPT tap & install a plug so it will have full time cooler flow.
Got the unit tore down, Inspected, Case washed.....And gathered parts which is the more challenging aspect for me because the time it wastes.
3 different GM dealers, WIT transmission parts, Converter shop & Summit Racing to get everything, Everyone is in "Holiday Mode" whether its on the road or behind the parts counter
I’ve had to get parts from 5 or 6 different places for this 6R140 I’m trying to get together. It’s been challenging for some reason.
@clinebarger Don't those have a transmission temp gauge in the instrument cluster?
Working on today.....................A turkey..................
I fired up my Simplicty blower and soaked the shoot with fluid film last weekend. I hoped that would keep the snow away.
My theory is if I mount the blower it won't snow. This time I'm not very certain.
Thanksgiving wrenching: a guy showed up at my place for other reasons and the right rear of his WJ had the worst wheel seal failure I've personally seen. Of course what actually happened was wb failure and then seals don't work so well when axleshafts slop around.
Fortunately O'Reilly was open today and stocked the bearing and seal -- albeit Precision which is "meh" IMO
On a bright note I got to use my KTI MegaHammer to pull the axle, which I realize was overkill but I hadn't used it yet. They're still $107 on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FABS3QM
That black racing stripe in the wheel well is gear oil:
Pressing new bearing:
Fortunately O'Reilly was open today and stocked the bearing and seal -- albeit Precision which is "meh" IMO
On a bright note I got to use my KTI MegaHammer to pull the axle, which I realize was overkill but I hadn't used it yet. They're still $107 on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FABS3QM
That black racing stripe in the wheel well is gear oil:
Pressing new bearing:
I also got a little work done this morning on the 8L90, Mostly washing parts....These units have A Lot of parts!
You may have to access it in the DIC? My K2XX Yukon Denali switches the volt gauge for the transmission temp gauge when you select tow/haul mode, I think the T1XX is trim level dependent as well?
The other day I did a white trash repair on my 2002 Sunfire, Shtty Blue. Pulled the alternator off and added some more fresh grease to the front bearing. I could not properly access the rear bearing (need a sizeable soldering iron to desolder a few points) so I used a small drill bit to put a hole in the seal. Used a needle to inject some grease and then sealant to patch it. Will it hold? Who knows but im not throwing more money at this beater. Hell yeah brother!!!
Today I have to bring the Trailblazer to town and get a tire patched. Im pretty amazed we got a year on the new tires before picking up a nail.
Today I have to bring the Trailblazer to town and get a tire patched. Im pretty amazed we got a year on the new tires before picking up a nail.
I've greased strut mounts in the same manner. Gotta be better than nothing
Probably way, way more common in parts of the world than one would guess.
Running the mower out of gas and prepping the snowblower for potential use tomorrow.