What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2020
- Messages
- 187
I hollowed out the rear cats, I’ll do the fronts another day when I can.
Loaded and delivered 10 loads of fill material for a new house site today. Took a while to get settled back in to the excavator (haven’t run one in two years) but we got through it.
Replaced the cv axles on my niece’s (formerly mine) 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan.
In the course of prying out the driver’s side axle, I touched the speed sensor on the transmission (buried under a ton of old grease, oil and dirt so it was invisible). It snapped very easily, so off to AutoZone to get a replacement.
Finished the job, and at the same time installed a new left side wheel well liner. The old one was half eaten away, so the new one will protect the computer that is stupidly mounted in the line of fire should it ever fail. And they do.
Also replaced the front engine shield on the passenger side. It’s a piece of plastic with a 90 degree bend to shield the serpentine belt and accessories from road splash. It was $50 for that part, but it was genuine Mopar. Had to be. No one makes it that I saw.
Today it’s storming outside as I enter this so I’ll do indoor work.
In the course of prying out the driver’s side axle, I touched the speed sensor on the transmission (buried under a ton of old grease, oil and dirt so it was invisible). It snapped very easily, so off to AutoZone to get a replacement.
Finished the job, and at the same time installed a new left side wheel well liner. The old one was half eaten away, so the new one will protect the computer that is stupidly mounted in the line of fire should it ever fail. And they do.
Also replaced the front engine shield on the passenger side. It’s a piece of plastic with a 90 degree bend to shield the serpentine belt and accessories from road splash. It was $50 for that part, but it was genuine Mopar. Had to be. No one makes it that I saw.
Today it’s storming outside as I enter this so I’ll do indoor work.
Working on my 2000 Polaris Magnum 500 again. I put in a brush kit last fall as the starter was slow and made it difficult to start. Well it worked fine until about a month ago and the starter is dragging its ass again.
Before removing it, I cleaned grounds, which had no change. Battery voltage was 12.6 resting overnight. Found the voltage regulator was not working as the engine revved so did the voltage, well past 18v.
Voltage regulator had some melted connectors so I trimmed them off, crimped and heat shrunk somw new ones on. Cleaned the connectors and sealed with some dielectric grease. Like magic, she pegs out at 15v now.
Before removing it, I cleaned grounds, which had no change. Battery voltage was 12.6 resting overnight. Found the voltage regulator was not working as the engine revved so did the voltage, well past 18v.
Voltage regulator had some melted connectors so I trimmed them off, crimped and heat shrunk somw new ones on. Cleaned the connectors and sealed with some dielectric grease. Like magic, she pegs out at 15v now.
2006 H3 (not mine):
New rear pads, rotors, hardware, pins, boots. I went with a kit by Quality Built from RA. The rotors are fully coated and fit seemed fine (shrug)
He had a bunch of work done in TX two months ago, including a new front half shaft. He drove home from TX to CO and the inner boot was already spitting grease everywhere. As much as I don't trust aftermarket CV boots, his shop in TX was terrible and we're both pretty sure they damaged it during installation, possibly trying to hammer it home (these pop in pretty hard):
We replaced with a bottom dollar Trakmotive from RA because he's broke.
Finally a new water temp sensor as it would either swear it was overheating and go into limp mode, or have no reading at all and throw a code for that. Here we used a Genuinely Made in China GM Genuine. Nothing but the best.....?.....I guess??
New rear pads, rotors, hardware, pins, boots. I went with a kit by Quality Built from RA. The rotors are fully coated and fit seemed fine (shrug)
He had a bunch of work done in TX two months ago, including a new front half shaft. He drove home from TX to CO and the inner boot was already spitting grease everywhere. As much as I don't trust aftermarket CV boots, his shop in TX was terrible and we're both pretty sure they damaged it during installation, possibly trying to hammer it home (these pop in pretty hard):
We replaced with a bottom dollar Trakmotive from RA because he's broke.
Finally a new water temp sensor as it would either swear it was overheating and go into limp mode, or have no reading at all and throw a code for that. Here we used a Genuinely Made in China GM Genuine. Nothing but the best.....?.....I guess??
Jeep Wrangler day at the shop......
2011 JK 3.8L/42RLE, Small EVAP leak DTC. People have their own methods leak testing ESIM/Leak Detection Pump type Chryslers....
I block the vent port at the ESIM, Hook my smoke machine at the purge solenoid using an adapter I made 3/8" quick connect on one end & 5/16" quick connect on the other to make it sort of universal.
Set the flow rate to max, Walk away for about 5 minutes, Then see where the flow meter settles at. This one settled at a little under .020" which means I have a leak not related to the ESIM.
Found a crack in one of the fuel tank ports, Verified with some soapy water. It was pretty windy today so I didn't even try looking for smoke.
Owner doesn't want to spend $1000 on a new Mopar tank so he's going to supply a used wreaking yard tank......This is going to be interesting
I have terrible luck with used fuel tanks in general but especially Mopar tanks.
Told him to bring the tank & I'll leak test it for 1/2 hour labor.
2000 TJ, 4.0L/A500 Customer brought me a Eaton True-Trac & some new axles to install. Apply to much torque & the ratcheting locker in it would disengage completely, Looked like a cheap Chinese locker but didn't find anything broken I believe the springs are to weak??
Advised the owner that running 35's on a Dana 35 is asking for trouble!!!
2011 JK 3.8L/42RLE, Small EVAP leak DTC. People have their own methods leak testing ESIM/Leak Detection Pump type Chryslers....
I block the vent port at the ESIM, Hook my smoke machine at the purge solenoid using an adapter I made 3/8" quick connect on one end & 5/16" quick connect on the other to make it sort of universal.
Set the flow rate to max, Walk away for about 5 minutes, Then see where the flow meter settles at. This one settled at a little under .020" which means I have a leak not related to the ESIM.
Found a crack in one of the fuel tank ports, Verified with some soapy water. It was pretty windy today so I didn't even try looking for smoke.
Owner doesn't want to spend $1000 on a new Mopar tank so he's going to supply a used wreaking yard tank......This is going to be interesting
I have terrible luck with used fuel tanks in general but especially Mopar tanks.Told him to bring the tank & I'll leak test it for 1/2 hour labor.
2000 TJ, 4.0L/A500 Customer brought me a Eaton True-Trac & some new axles to install. Apply to much torque & the ratcheting locker in it would disengage completely, Looked like a cheap Chinese locker but didn't find anything broken I believe the springs are to weak??
Advised the owner that running 35's on a Dana 35 is asking for trouble!!!
You can never have too many gauges. Not sure I've ever seen a trans temp gauge outside a semi before.
Oil & filter on the airport work Tiffin Tug that has a Kawasaki FD791D Fuel Injected 2cy that takes 1.9L of Valvoline Synthetic 5W30 and a Fram PH4967 filter. The old oil had about 420 hours on it, pretty dark.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2021
- Messages
- 1,642
2001 Mercury Grand Marquis 4.6 V8
Replaced spark plugs, ignition coils, air filter, fuel filter, pcv valve and changed the oil
1984 Chevrolet C70 427 tall deck big block
Smoked over the ignition system for a no start condition, will be getting a new distributor, plug wires and spark plugs tomorrow
Replaced spark plugs, ignition coils, air filter, fuel filter, pcv valve and changed the oil
1984 Chevrolet C70 427 tall deck big block
Smoked over the ignition system for a no start condition, will be getting a new distributor, plug wires and spark plugs tomorrow
After doing the ECT sensor on the H3 I5, I figured there might be a specialty tool. There is: the KM J-45861.
However even used on ebay they're presently going for $50. I don't know where my threshold is, but $50 felt too high for a 15mm socket with a slot.
So I grabbed a spare 15mm deep in 3/8" drive and made one I think should work.
However even used on ebay they're presently going for $50. I don't know where my threshold is, but $50 felt too high for a 15mm socket with a slot.
So I grabbed a spare 15mm deep in 3/8" drive and made one I think should work.
I've cut down many a China wrench to make short wrenches for tight spaces.
Backyard deck accoutrements day. Replacing the impeller, bearing, and pump seal on the hot tub hydro unit. Drained it before Texas since who uses a 103F tub in the summer? Pulled it all out yesterday, R&R today. Also did a natural gas conversion on the Blackstone a couple days ago and will plumb in a shut-off valve, quick disconnect, and hose to the house stub-out. Quick disconnect will allow me to swap in the patio heater (also NG convo) when it gets chilly. Crossing my fingers I don't blow the house up LOL.
You can easily spend as much or more and wonder how there's so little to show for it by visiting the tool truck too.Looking for a girlfriend
Still trying to figure out why a 2000 Camry 5S-FE has misfires on Cylinder #1 and #2. Removed EGR to see if it was stuck open and it wasn't. Next step is to take apart the ECU to check for visually bad capacitors.