What are you working on today?

Was there a particular reason you used B6s up front and Sachs in the rear? I think the B6s are valved digressively while the sachs are more linear? (Which is exactly how my truck is set up but it was kind of by accident).
Nah, just availability and budget. The Sachs are relatively affordable and I felt I could trust the quality. I will say, the Sachs seem pretty stiff in the rear, but it was a pogo stick before, so it's all relative. They might ease up a bit, too
 
Nah, just availability and budget. The Sachs are relatively affordable and I felt I could trust the quality. I will say, the Sachs seem pretty stiff in the rear, but it was a pogo stick before, so it's all relative. They might ease up a bit, too
I have quite enjoyed the Volvo sedans I had which were equipped with sachs.

We installed B6s in my son’s 2019 4R and they are nicely tuned for it when empty. The shocks try to stay a little stiff until they break free and then are rather soft. So they don’t like to porpoise or float, but then let go when they take a bump. This is great until it’s loaded down or it’s a busy surface, in which case the B6s tend to float. It’s an interesting tuning.

I would think the Sachs will break in over the next 1500 miles.
 
Matt - usually there’s red in your photos and they are all heavy diesels. This time it’s red and I now admire you even more. This is a different art, and your yearly trip sounds therapeutic and so healthy!
Therapeutic is an excellent word. Being in the middle of the forest with 100 miles+ to the nearest town clears the mind and soul. Let’s you really reset. Granted, it’s quite the paddle, but it’s worth it. We see moose, deer, loons, bald eagles and lots of other wildlife on our trips, many times right on the river in front of us. Lots of natural springs with ice cold water, and a nights sky that’s not anything else I’ve seen. There’s usually just a small group of us, just the guys. Thanks for the kind words.
 
2006 Hummer H3: a buddy just had a bunch of work done in the Dallas area. He wound up essentially stranded down there after -- the story goes -- a half shaft broke, somehow destroying his transfer case. I'm very unclear on details and he doesn't know enough to articulate or understand fully.

In the course of a new half shaft (which already has a torn boot after a couple months) and new t-case they also replaced the UCAs due to sloppy ball joints, which is valid because he and I diagnosed that before the Dallas fiasco.

The shop managed to install the camber eccentrics backwards on the passenger side. The alignment shop caught it but said they could align it anyway as-is.

The vehicle was pulling left and darting hard right on braking by the time he got back home. Turns out the nuts on both adjusters had completely backed off. You could grab the wheel and pull up and make them swivel their entire range, which equates to inches of movement at the wheel.

We swapped the bolts back to correct orientation, locktited the nuts, eyeballed caster/camber and told him to get an alignment.

Also the WSS lines on both sides were just dangling -- no attempt to anchor them at all. Who sends a vehicle out the door like that??
 
Replaced the failed GSP Revolution CV on '15 Forester. Only made it ~6 months and 23k miles.

Thanks GSP:
20240613_234413.jpg

A fancy box does not a long-lasting product make:
20240614_001630.jpg

This one's going back to RA as warranty:
20240614_002205.jpg
 
Replaced the right side cv axle on my brothers minivan (cue sad music for whoever gets sad about my working on minivans 🙄).

I also changed out the wheel bearing hubs on both sides ( the driver side cv was changed earlier, but I left the rest of the work until he got back from his road trip across the state).

I inspected the ball joints, and though I had a replacement set, the ones in there were still good. Looked like at some point someone in its history swapped out the lower control arms. The boots on the ball joints were in good shape so I left them.

Also changed the struts with some ready struts. Brown box generic, because the plan is to trade this away in the near future. No Bilsteins for this beast of burden. Which to be honest , the van isn’t a horrible thing either. 😎. Just his wife has taken a dislike to it for the frequent need for repairs lately.

Van drove well in my brief test and I turned it back over to him with the instruction to get an alignment done very soon.

Today I have a job interview that, in my estimation, I’m considering not pursuing. They are a start up and seemed focused on what clients I can poach from my previous employer. I am no fan of my prior employer, but I’m not inclined to take their clients and give them to someone else who didn’t put in the effort to build a relationship. I’ll interview but I’m likely to pass. 🧐.

The last part wasn’t auto repair, but it is something I’m working on today. 😉

IMG_1209.jpeg


IMG_1210.jpeg
 
Yesterday myself, the boss and his wife worked on one of their Air BnB houses. Between the three of us, we replaced most of the interior doors, two faucet fixtures, and pressure washed the driveway and back patio. I also got treated to a BBQ baked potato for dinner. Today I'm off and might go to the gun range if I can get my butt moving.
 
I didn’t post this in my earlier morning entry, but I’m going to visit a couple body shops.

Wednesday evening, we got a wicked little hail storm. The hailstones didn’t seem to be that bad, but there were some large ones in the mix. 😧

My Mini, and my Charger have several small dents. Actually, a lot of dents. 😑. My brother has my Mercury at his house and I’m sure that got a beating.

The Jeep Wrangler? None. It’s a plastic hood, fenders and roof. Not a scratch.

Nothing may come of it, or something. I’ll find out.

The hail stones I saw…

IMG_1207.jpeg
 
Changed the oil and bumped up the engine RPM a couple hundred on our little MTD 4.5 hp push mower. Dumped in some ST HM 5w30 I had laying around, figured the little Briggs flathead doesn't care either way.

Also got around to installing the new "performance" muffler on our Jeep. The wife gave me permission to give the old girl a little more of a voice, so I threw on the same muffler I went with on my last GC: an AP Exhaust VX2442. $31 from Amazon, and it give a really nice low rumble at idle that fades into mostly engine noise above 3k RPM.
 
I had to ferry the Camry to the dealership - my dad was driving it with a “hybrid system malfunction” message on the dash LCD, and then the CEL turned on. The CEL was off, I had to get my scan tool into thinking it was a 2024 model to get it to spill the beans. There was a Toyota-specific P1 code I saw and didn’t erase. Dealership pulled more codes with Techstream. It needs a new hybrid ECU. I got a new Prius Prime loaner for now.
 
Is there not a primary shoe on this vehicle?
Front are rotors and calipers, i replaced the worn oem ones a few months ago. I did the rear drum brakes later because of how labor intensive and forward planning with parts otherwise id be in the world of hurt with multiple trips to the parts store.
 
2003 Chevy Express 3500 Van 6.0L water pump replacement. 186,000mi on van.

Getting the shroud off made the engine front end accessible.
IMG_0531.JPG


New water pump, t-stat, tensioner, idler pulley and belts installed. Reused original fan clutch. Hated that someone was in here already with the aftermarket water pump and all the constant tension clamps replaced with worm clamps.
IMG_0532.JPG


For future reference in case someone tears into the belt system so they don't have to replace still good parts. Cuz the belt system looked like it has been replaced not that long ago.
IMG_0533.JPG


Got too complacent and used my spill-free funnel to fill the system like any other Chevy LS truck. But the coolant loop is different in a van and using the spill-free funnel did not completely fill the system with coolant leaving the block dry. Had a scantool connected to watch temp rise and drop. Temps shot up fast and did not feel any coolant flow in the upper rad hose. Quickly shut it off and filled system via the upper rad hose, bled cooling system, check for any leaks & fan clutch operation. System stays cool at a steady 192F.
IMG_0536.JPG
 
Went to diag a '00 Xterra that I've already put TWO Duralast distributors in. It died on him in the same manner. After sitting for a couple days it started right up when I tried, but we have a P1320 for Ignition Circuit Failure.

So, this time I can't PROVE it's the distributor but I feel bad about the whole fiasco. I'm not going to send him out as-is because I believe there's a 99% chance it's the distributor. Both times before I could conclusively prove the dist was the culprit.

I ordered a Nissan OEM and will see if AutoZone will refund me. If not, it's not worth raising my blood pressure. I figured aftermarket distributors would last 1-2 years, not 2-4 weeks.
 
Replaced the deck belt on a Cub Cadet 46” mower deck. The old one was worn enough that it would jump off the pulleys. Ordered a new one off the internet mega sales site and installed. Checked the blade brakes and one is worn pretty much out. I’ll order a new set and install those later. Mower deck is back to work.

Finished rehabbing a pair of Schwinn bikes for my teenage niece and nephew to use in their town. They can get to anyplace on these (with stout locks to slow down a thief) so these will get used. And, if they do get stolen, these aren’t super expensive. But I told them to still take all efforts to protect this asset. 😎

Set up my brother with an air line off my compressor for roofing work. I’m not working on that myself as it is his arrangement with our mom to do the job to settle debts and earn cash (he’s still looking for work so extra cash is welcome). Tough job.
 
Back
Top