What are you working on today?

Funny how Koyo are US made in that application. I have Japanese made Koyo bearings which came in my 1960s Ford Toploader rebuild kit. The origional US made National bearings still looked great, but I changed them anyway.
 
Funny how Koyo are US made in that application. I have Japanese made Koyo bearings which came in my 1960s Ford Toploader rebuild kit. The origional US made National bearings still looked great, but I changed them anyway.

The rest of the Koyo bearings (tapered) were from Japan. Koyo acquired Torrington Bearing in 2009 from Timken & started phasing out the Torrington name. GM & Ford used Torrington exclusively for their semi float c-clip axle bearings for decades.

Torrington specialized in Thrust Bearings & Radial Roller Bearings. When I buy automatic transmission thrust bearing kit's.....They're USA made Koyo/JTEKT while they used to be Torrington branded. We/Builders still call them Torrington bearings as a generic/slang term.

It seems Koyo is becoming the industry standard in automotive Tapered Roller over Timken.
 
The rest of the Koyo bearings (tapered) were from Japan. Koyo acquired Torrington Bearing in 2009 from Timken & started phasing out the Torrington name. GM & Ford used Torrington exclusively for their semi float c-clip axle bearings for decades.

Torrington specialized in Thrust Bearings & Radial Roller Bearings. When I buy automatic transmission thrust bearing kit's.....They're USA made Koyo/JTEKT while they used to be Torrington branded. We/Builders still call them Torrington bearings as a generic/slang term.

It seems Koyo is becoming the industry standard in automotive Tapered Roller over Timken.
I was always taught that radial thrust bearings are Torrington bearings, so that's what I call them. No different than reduced shank bits being known as S&D or Silver & Deming I suppose
 
1992 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Replaced belt tensioner, serpentine belt, fan clutch, changed oil

2006 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Replaced alternator and serpentine belt
 
Pulled and repairing a steering clutch and steering clutch throwiout bearing on my old Allis Chalmers HD6G. It didn’t need any new parts, just had to clean out the rust and hardened grease from decades of neglect.
IMG_5669.jpeg
 
Buffed a little by hand with some compound. Paint was too soft for a buffer still. An improvement, but no where near perfect. Not going to mess with it until it fully cures after a week or 2. Might go with a very small paint brush and touch up a couple areas where there is paint missing but I may just leave it as is.

IMG_1026.jpeg


IMG_1025.jpeg
 
My '07 F150 was throwing a B1884 for passenger airbag disable lamp circuit failure.

These bulbs are a perfect example of lazy design that is non-serviceable.

Feel free to laugh at the repair but I straightened the blades on a #74 and used some baby butt connectors to crimp it together.
20240621_102803.jpg


A lot of guys use a 194 but it's much larger. I was just able to put the 74 behind the plastic that gets illuminated as shown, and it actually does a great job of illuminating the Danger Will Robinson! sign. Phew, so glad I'm safe again. That was close!! ;)
20240621_103650.jpg
 
Installed a new Four Seasons blend door actuator in the Silverado. Now it finally does what it is supposed to do, heat or no heat. Installed a $50 seat cover, its a little off near the seatbelt area but close enough and fits OK. I got the two manual levers screwed on backwards, I'll fix that another time. Tomorrow I might try to get the AC working again but not very optimistic, I'm pretty certain there is a leak somewhere.

1719015390836.jpg


1719015444116.jpg
 
First weekend after being gone for a month.. working on everything! Bushing for the Focus broke right before we left, an exact replacement doesn’t exist. Got a kit with 6 various lock rod clips from Autozone, think that one will work. Maybe better than original. Replaced the anti-drain back for the black tank rinser on the RV, attempted to repack the bearings on the bike but just had to replace the wheel with a spare. The seal is shot and so is the wheel after 13k. Washed the wheels on the RV so the covers can go back on. Also washed the bike after the wheel replacement. Fixed the duct for the back bedroom in the RV, need to build a cover. Next is putting the floor and toilet back in with a new seal, that was nasty. I have a list a mile long.
IMG_3628.jpeg
 
Well, at 94,000 miles, I needed to replace the valve cover gasket on the Elantra. The spark plug tube seals and gaskets around the inner cover bolts were leaking. They basically disintegrated as I tried to remove them. Honestly, pretty disappointing. I probably could've had this warrantied, but the last time I visited the dealership service center, they broke something and didn't tell me. Anyways, here's the pics.

IMG_3438.jpg

IMG_3439.jpg

IMG_3440.jpg

IMG_3441.jpg
 
I changed out the rear diff fluid in my 1963 Chevy C10 pickup truck. The engine is not original to the truck and I have no idea about the three speed MT or the rear end. I figured that it would probably be a good idea and the fluid drained out a very dark amber color so it could have been worse. The transmission is next.
1719157443416.jpg
 
Figured out ramps for a rental we are in for a few months.

Wife found a great rental near our soon to be main home, which is under construction. This new rental has a ~5" lip at the garage that combined with the pitch of the approach, made the garage unuseable for most of the fun cars. I tried shoveling pea stone, which didn't last, and tried some composite deck boards which weren't thick enough and didn't really fit the neighborhood. Stumbled across these wheelchair and also vehicle ramps from a company called Vevor. Some careful leveling and anchoring with gutter spikes and a very good solution and the perfect slope for the Wife's toy. I will probably paint the chevrons black to be a bit less obtrusive..
CCNSR62024.jpg
 
Playing with a new toy, Autel KM100 Key programmer/cloner
It included two of their new universal iKey proximity keys
I'm quite impressed, it hasn't resulted in a beached whale yet 🤌
1000012193.jpg

Tried it in an all keys lost scenario with my Fusion, 10 minute timeout and the programming was uneventful
1000012195.jpg

My dad wanted a spare key for his work 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan, I was worried about Mopar pin code calculation, it didn't break a sweat 💪
The ~$10 Amazon special FOBIK has extra buttons for higher trim levels, but it starts and RKE works as it should, can't complain 👍
1000012196.jpg

1000012197.jpg

Then I threw it a challenge, my co workers 2017 Kia Optima
It's a push button start, so it's safe from the Kia Boyz
But is it safe from me 🤨
Following the prompts from the "Universal Key" Wizard setup the blank fob to emulate for this particular Kia
I was sweating a bit, it took ~5 minutes to get the pincode, I was afraid I lost it
1000012198.jpg

But it went through the motions, I reprogrammed the one key he had, and the new Autel iKey
Works flawlessly 🤷‍♂️
1000012199.jpg

I'm quite impressed, the vehicle coverage will improve with every (free lifetime update), and the Autel keys sell for $20-$40
The tool itself sells for $479-$549
Uncle Mike don't pay full price for nothing 👀
$418 delivered
After I make a handful of keys for friends and co workers, I should breakeven
And I'm not beholden to dealers who usually won't give the Immo pin code over the counter 🤨

Look what the local Hyundai dealer quoted my neighbor for a '23 Kona they sold her 😠
1000012194.jpg
 
Now installing the third Duralast Gold distributor in the '00 Xterra.
20240623_152450.jpg

I've got an OEM on order from nissanoempartsdirect.com but they totally ghosted me the last week. No shipping info provided and no response to my inquiry. I'll have to get medieval tomorrow (Monday) and if no progress dispute the charge and order elsewhere.
 
Recently, my daughter called me and said that there was a "weird" noise coming from her 2004 Tahoe Z71.........she said it got worse in turns and worse in tight turns but no noise in straight driving. This was a 300 mile round trip.

She get home and I have a look, about 10 seconds into it, I noticed that it was in 4WD. Pushbutton style. I turned it to 2WD, and magically the noise went away.....:mad:

So today I drained the fluid from the T-case, and front diff. T case probably needed changing anyway, but the front diff was grey, really shiny grey.....wonder why?:ROFLMAO:

Filled t case with Maxlife and front diff twice with 75w90 Valvoline, we will see. I think it will be fine.
 
Cleaned all the tree seeds and junk off and out of the Festiva. Like to build up in the cowl. Cleaned the rear out and applied Kilmat. Got to say between this and RV that Kilmat is good stuff! Don’t think I want to be stopped for a while though, kinda smells like wacky weed. Now if I could only get the tires balanced so we can drive it more 😢
IMG_3632.jpeg
 
Recently, my daughter called me and said that there was a "weird" noise coming from her 2004 Tahoe Z71.........she said it got worse in turns and worse in tight turns but no noise in straight driving. This was a 300 mile round trip.

She get home and I have a look, about 10 seconds into it, I noticed that it was in 4WD. Pushbutton style. I turned it to 2WD, and magically the noise went away.....:mad:

So today I drained the fluid from the T-case, and front diff. T case probably needed changing anyway, but the front diff was grey, really shiny grey.....wonder why?:ROFLMAO:

Filled t case with Maxlife and front diff twice with 75w90 Valvoline, we will see. I think it will be fine.
Not saying this is your issue (I'd be more worried about t-case chain), but if you haven't seen this one start at ~13:40. Good entertainment all around
 
Back
Top