[Forrest Gump voice]"And would you believe they let me mow that lawn for free?!"[/Forrest Gump voice]
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
That's a ton of lift for that duration. I NEED rollers in my classics! Man the off idle torque must be off the charts!Almost got it "Long Blocked".......Cam, Lifters, Timing Chain, Damper, Oil Pump, & Heads torqued down.
Computer skills are the future. Everything changes. You grow or you go.
Wife came up from the basement after her daily workout to inform me the furnace was making a lot of noise. Indeed it is. After 3 hours of me tinkering with it, it's still making noise. The fan spins free. I oiled the motor bearings but that seemed to help for about a minute then the noise came back. Ugh.
I’m betting it’s the latter. If I can do HONDA PDI training and HONDA Tech Classes AutoMechanic has ZERO reason to whine or cry.
@clinebarger demonstrates the holy grail of system thinking here, one of the hardest things to do in any field. We’ve got to understand the machinery, but the machinery is driven by sensors and valves. The sensors and valves having wiring, and we need to understand the theory of operation between what the sensors pick up, what commands are given by the driver and control systems, and how the valves respond. And all that is interconnected through a schematic-drawn series of wiring harnesses. And now we have to understand the system interpreting command inputs and sensor data, and determine what the valves and actuators need to do - and there’s the computer. It seems like a full career simply to be an expert in just one of those three areas - but the folks who can connect the dots become the masters in their domain. And it’s not just automotive.
Look at how hard it is just to deal with simple faults now… a friend bought a new outback and few years ago and by month 2 it was running weird. Man - I applauded the technician who figured this out - PIN 19 was not properly seated in the firewall wiring harness connection. There were like 100+ pins in this 2” round thing. Dude must have understood to read some codes, figure out the commonality between some dissimilar codes and boil it down to a conductor in a wiring harness, and then pull things apart to check for breaks. And quickly - the car was done in a day. ME? In that situation?? Been doing some kind of hobbyist auto work for 40+ years - nuh-uh - i don’t think I would have found it.
@clinebarger is 1 in a billion. We are fortunate to have his KSAs (knowledge, skills and abilities) here. No games, just a systematic methodology that leads to effective problem solving.
Focus door latch part 2,3 and 15. After looking and pondering like a monkey trying to figure out a problem for a hour the only thing I could figure was something was worn in the latch. A door cable should just work and it wasn't unlatching until the full throw. Didn't have a factory cable to compare lengths.
So went to the u pull yard on a Sunday at 2, at least it was 33 degrees and not a lot of snow. Of course they didn't have anything newer than 04 but the 00-08 is mostly the same. They did change the design some in 03/04 though. And looked like they put electronic locks even in manual cars and of course they only had one manual lock. Grabbed the latch and the cable, was going to get the handle but all were broken.
Good guess works now. But might of broke the bushing for the outside handle and couldn't find a good reference in the yard, I search the web later. Now that'll be amusing and just like working on this car.. fix the inside but break the outside. The hood latch might be next.. when she kills the battery it's hard to explain you'll need a pair of pliers.
So went to the u pull yard on a Sunday at 2, at least it was 33 degrees and not a lot of snow. Of course they didn't have anything newer than 04 but the 00-08 is mostly the same. They did change the design some in 03/04 though. And looked like they put electronic locks even in manual cars and of course they only had one manual lock. Grabbed the latch and the cable, was going to get the handle but all were broken.
Good guess works now. But might of broke the bushing for the outside handle and couldn't find a good reference in the yard, I search the web later. Now that'll be amusing and just like working on this car.. fix the inside but break the outside. The hood latch might be next.. when she kills the battery it's hard to explain you'll need a pair of pliers.
'08-11 was terribly problematic too. I had all four pdl's fail on an '09 at almost exactly the same time. The aftermarket is flooded with the latch assys but quality is all over from adequate to poor.
I had to redo a couple. And ya REALLY gotta watch the aftermarket because in typical fashion they tried to simplify interchange so lots of LF will have no provision for the key cylinder attachment, meaning you're relying on the fob 100%
And removing the door panels when a door won't open is an art unto itself...and kinda like automotive pilates meets yoga meets Twister
I'm frankenpacking the rear leafs on a '96 Nissan Hardbody. It's a budget job for a volunteer at our non-profit, but a process I enjoy and results are typically great.
The front eye bushing on both main leafs was toasted. Nissan uses a weird spring eye bolt with teardop flange head so you literally can't see any part of the bushing until it's removed.
I grabbed some round 3" Delrin and made some bushings.
I typically just cut the clamps to allow for the thicker pack and weld on a little flat bar. The clamps need not be closed and 'wheelers have been opening them for years to allow the leafs to fan apart at full droop
The front eye bushing on both main leafs was toasted. Nissan uses a weird spring eye bolt with teardop flange head so you literally can't see any part of the bushing until it's removed.
I grabbed some round 3" Delrin and made some bushings.
I typically just cut the clamps to allow for the thicker pack and weld on a little flat bar. The clamps need not be closed and 'wheelers have been opening them for years to allow the leafs to fan apart at full droop
When I was in high school ('74-'78) my father suggested that I should take a typing class.
"Why the heck would I ever need that skill for?"
I finished frankenpacking the D21 Nissan. Got about 2.25" lift. He has a VERY unique camper I helped him build a few years ago. It's a steel tube frame and made NO sense to me but he had a VERY specific vision so I just did as he asked.
Before:
After:
Just behind front spring eye before:
Just behind front spring eye after:
Forgot it had a broken leaf. I guess ~28 years and 267k miles will do that. It now has a mix of Nissan, Tacoma and Tundra leafs
Also front brakes and this is pre-unit bearing so repacked the bearings with new wheel seals of course.
This thing is so slow it was difficult to bed the brakes because by the time I got back up to 40mph they'd already cooled (joking, kinda)!
Before:
After:
Just behind front spring eye before:
Just behind front spring eye after:
Forgot it had a broken leaf. I guess ~28 years and 267k miles will do that. It now has a mix of Nissan, Tacoma and Tundra leafs
Also front brakes and this is pre-unit bearing so repacked the bearings with new wheel seals of course.
This thing is so slow it was difficult to bed the brakes because by the time I got back up to 40mph they'd already cooled (joking, kinda)!
These were such cool trucks - sturdy for the intended purpose. Not overpowered but could go forever. It’s great to see one in such good shape on the road. Nice solid repairs you did here … awesome!I finished frankenpacking the D21 Nissan. Got about 2.25" lift. He has a VERY unique camper I helped him build a few years ago. It's a steel tube frame and made NO sense to me but he had a VERY specific vision so I just did as he asked.
Before:
View attachment 199864
After:
View attachment 199865
Just behind front spring eye before:
View attachment 199866
Just behind front spring eye after:
View attachment 199867
Forgot it had a broken leaf. I guess ~28 years and 267k miles will do that. It now has a mix of Nissan, Tacoma and Tundra leafs
View attachment 199868
Also front brakes and this is pre-unit bearing so repacked the bearings with new wheel seals of course.
View attachment 199870
View attachment 199871
This thing is so slow it was difficult to bed the brakes because by the time I got back up to 40mph they'd already cooled (joking, kinda)!
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2021
- Messages
- 1,639
1995 GMC Sierra 1500 4wd
I pulled the engine out of this truck a few months back for a rebuild. The project snowballed. It ended up in the big truck shop where they rebuilt the rear differential, replaced the front differential, replaced transmission and transfer case, new front and rear brakes, installed new fuel tank and pump/sending unit, rebuilt the front end, and installed the rebuilt engine. It came to me today for it's first oil change following break in. Honestly kinda glad the job was moved to the other shop, I'm tired of changing engines even in the easier vehicles to do so, and I wasn't game for everything else. I've got about another year of working almost full time and I want to do things on my own terms, which basically means light repair work and service work.
Spent the rest of the day on the road delivering a bunch of carburetors to my friend's preferred refurbisher. Nice easy day.
I pulled the engine out of this truck a few months back for a rebuild. The project snowballed. It ended up in the big truck shop where they rebuilt the rear differential, replaced the front differential, replaced transmission and transfer case, new front and rear brakes, installed new fuel tank and pump/sending unit, rebuilt the front end, and installed the rebuilt engine. It came to me today for it's first oil change following break in. Honestly kinda glad the job was moved to the other shop, I'm tired of changing engines even in the easier vehicles to do so, and I wasn't game for everything else. I've got about another year of working almost full time and I want to do things on my own terms, which basically means light repair work and service work.
Spent the rest of the day on the road delivering a bunch of carburetors to my friend's preferred refurbisher. Nice easy day.
The Highlander didn't come with a carpet mat for the cargo area. I bought the mat and the liner. Waiting for the liner to flatten out. Installation if or when the rain lets up.
Got the rebuilt drill press working. Was NOT as easy as I thought. Due do the original order of assembly I had to cut some connections, splice, solder, insulate, snap the switches back in place, etc and my phat fingers barely reached. I mean simple wire, but a pain. Works great. I probably should splurge for a nice chuck for this one as well.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2021
- Messages
- 1,639
1986 Toyota 4Runner
Replaced fuel tank. This one was two years old and started leaking from what appears to be a spot weld in the bottom. Sending unit and fuel pump were replaced at that time so they were installed in the new one.
Pulled a pair of 882 cylinder heads of a core 350 to send to the machine shop for a 1983 Chevrolet C30 the big truck shop is doing head gaskets on. Both of the trucks heads were cracked, these appear to not be but will need to be magnafluxed to be sure.
Replaced fuel tank. This one was two years old and started leaking from what appears to be a spot weld in the bottom. Sending unit and fuel pump were replaced at that time so they were installed in the new one.
Pulled a pair of 882 cylinder heads of a core 350 to send to the machine shop for a 1983 Chevrolet C30 the big truck shop is doing head gaskets on. Both of the trucks heads were cracked, these appear to not be but will need to be magnafluxed to be sure.
2015 Camaro, 3.6L/6L50E, DTC's......
P0451, Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Performance.
P0446, EVAP Vent Solenoid Performance.
FTP Sensor voltage stuck high at 4.69vdc & reading 15 inches of vacuum, Key on/Engine off after sitting all night (No way there's 15" of vacuum)
I'd usually like to access the FTP Sensor for further diagnoses but that impossible on this vehicle, The sensor is on the top of the tank & the tank overhangs the rear subframe.
Calls for 4.6 hours to remove the tank.
Looked for tips/tricks/shortcuts on the Web/Youtube.......Every video was of cutting a hole in the floor
Service information called for lowering the front of the rear subframe, Then remove the lines at the EVAP Canister....Yeah, Sure....No way my hands/arms fit up there to undo the EVAP lines.
I removed the rear subframe completely & was able to lower the tank just a little to swap the FTP Sensor. Monitored the voltage/pressure, 1.6vdc & Zero pressure.
Hooked my smoke machine at the Purge Solenoid line, With the Vent Solenoid commanded closed....Waited for the flow meter to drop to Zero, Which it did. The FTP Sensor also tracked pressure from the smoke machine @ 8 PSI max.
Commanded the Vent Solenoid off/open & the pressure dropped to Zero.
Only then did I reinstall the rear subframe.
This job really wasn't that bad, Glad I didn't just blindly follow service information!!
P0451, Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Performance.
P0446, EVAP Vent Solenoid Performance.
FTP Sensor voltage stuck high at 4.69vdc & reading 15 inches of vacuum, Key on/Engine off after sitting all night (No way there's 15" of vacuum)
I'd usually like to access the FTP Sensor for further diagnoses but that impossible on this vehicle, The sensor is on the top of the tank & the tank overhangs the rear subframe.
Calls for 4.6 hours to remove the tank.
Looked for tips/tricks/shortcuts on the Web/Youtube.......Every video was of cutting a hole in the floor
Service information called for lowering the front of the rear subframe, Then remove the lines at the EVAP Canister....Yeah, Sure....No way my hands/arms fit up there to undo the EVAP lines.
I removed the rear subframe completely & was able to lower the tank just a little to swap the FTP Sensor. Monitored the voltage/pressure, 1.6vdc & Zero pressure.
Hooked my smoke machine at the Purge Solenoid line, With the Vent Solenoid commanded closed....Waited for the flow meter to drop to Zero, Which it did. The FTP Sensor also tracked pressure from the smoke machine @ 8 PSI max.
Commanded the Vent Solenoid off/open & the pressure dropped to Zero.
Only then did I reinstall the rear subframe.
This job really wasn't that bad, Glad I didn't just blindly follow service information!!
Past the halfway point of the Mini engine overhaul (at least the top end).
Sent the old cylinder head back to the rebuilder, and sized up the replacement. All looks good with it, but I’ll need new bolts for the engine lift point mounted on the head. I’ll go get a couple this morning.
Removed the crank pulley and chain, then turned the engine over until the crank lock tool snapped into place and locked the bottom end into time. It only locks into the flywheel when the engine is at the correct point (all cylinders at mid stroke; not cylinder 1 at TDC - another quirk of the engine design).
Since I had access I replaced the starter and will replace the water pump and coolant tube that are near inaccessible with the head in place. I also removed, cleaned the housing and replaced the gaskets on the oil filter / cooler housing. It was definitely leaking with the compressed rubber gaskets that became like brittle plastic. The caked on old oil I cleaned off bears that out.
Then I placed the cylinder head in the proper timing position and installed the cam lock tool. This one is in time since the tool clicked on easily and I was able to run the bolts down to lock it. The old one never quite went into the locked position and even though the cheap tool I had held it in place it still went several degrees out.
I am confident this new head and the fixes will address the whole misfire and poor running idle. I’m taking my time in doing the repair to ensure I don’t miss a step.
Sent the old cylinder head back to the rebuilder, and sized up the replacement. All looks good with it, but I’ll need new bolts for the engine lift point mounted on the head. I’ll go get a couple this morning.
Removed the crank pulley and chain, then turned the engine over until the crank lock tool snapped into place and locked the bottom end into time. It only locks into the flywheel when the engine is at the correct point (all cylinders at mid stroke; not cylinder 1 at TDC - another quirk of the engine design).
Since I had access I replaced the starter and will replace the water pump and coolant tube that are near inaccessible with the head in place. I also removed, cleaned the housing and replaced the gaskets on the oil filter / cooler housing. It was definitely leaking with the compressed rubber gaskets that became like brittle plastic. The caked on old oil I cleaned off bears that out.
Then I placed the cylinder head in the proper timing position and installed the cam lock tool. This one is in time since the tool clicked on easily and I was able to run the bolts down to lock it. The old one never quite went into the locked position and even though the cheap tool I had held it in place it still went several degrees out.
I am confident this new head and the fixes will address the whole misfire and poor running idle. I’m taking my time in doing the repair to ensure I don’t miss a step.
