What are you working on today?

@clinebarger Give him two options. You rebuild this one with all new and upgraded parts or find a rebuilt unit for you to install and no warranty on the bought unit because he apparently abuses his equipment.
@clinebarger

yeah, I like letting them have the options. We don’t have to tell him you know another story, simply that you did a full tear down based on the understanding that it suddenly quit, but the job has been complicated because it seems to have ate itself alive for some time causing more damage than expected, AND you had no additional data because the codes had been cleared before you started. That’s enough.

then simply state what the 2 cost options are to get it back on the road.

they probably lied out of embarrassment. Or someone else was driving and didn’t share that info.

seems hardly worth a part by part rebuild….
 
1999 Polaris Xplorer. Complaint: fuel leak they can't find after replacing the carb.

I was able to pressurize the system by adapting my Astro cooling system pressurizer. I used an old gas cap from a JD riding mower that happened to have the same threads and adapted the pressure tester male fitting by drilling & tapping the cap. This was SOOOO nice to maintain pressure in the system. I only took it to 4 psi.

I found the fuel shutoff switch leaking.

I do also get leaking from the carb "overflow" after awhile. I don't know if this means the needle valve isn't sealing as it should, or would this be expected when under 4 lbs positive pressure????
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You're probably waiting on the first guy to ask "why the green surface on the belt?" I'll bite.

At first glance it looks like someone fired the parts cannon at the entire accessory side of the engine. That's a lot of shiny aluminum there, should be good for awhile!
I sure hope!

Yeah water pump is newer from last Feb 2023 with the motor swap, throttle body is this past summer with the OE 315k finally failing.

Belt is a Gates FleetRunner. They’re green and pretty tough belts… from what I hear. I truly don’t know much about them but anytime I see any info on them they’re regarded as a very good belt. So I run them too. Been using them for a long time where they’re applicable.
 
1999 Polaris Xplorer. Complaint: fuel leak they can't find after replacing the carb.

I was able to pressurize the system by adapting my Astro cooling system pressurizer. I used an old gas cap from a JD riding mower that happened to have the same threads and adapted the pressure tester male fitting by drilling & tapping the cap. This was SOOOO nice to maintain pressure in the system. I only took it to 4 psi.

I found the fuel shutoff switch leaking.

I do also get leaking from the carb "overflow" after awhile. I don't know if this means the needle valve isn't sealing as it should, or would this be expected when under 4 lbs positive pressure????View attachment 200495
smooth. Nice job. I think the carb is probably ok - I doubt it is designed to handle 4 psi.
 
2006 Acura TSX, mighty K24, 221K
R&R Denso Water Pump, Bando Belt, Zerex Blue Coolant
4 of the 10mm fasteners are a tight fit! Access behind pulley holes... Pain to disassemble; piece of cake reassembling once everything is cleaned up.
This is the 2nd time I replaced the pump; the previous one lasted 77K. Weird. Was starting to grind a little...

I'm almost thinking I should have replaced the original belt tensioner, but it's on top so no big deal.
 
Just watched the chiefs knock off the ravens. Yesterday replaced spark plugs on my mustang. Also replaced a couple of igbition coils. Car still has a weird miss. Next weekend will replace the fuel filter. Parts cannon = loaded and ready!
 
A lot of work in the RV. Floor is done up front so time to reassembly. Flooring is a young man's game I have to say.

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Started the stereo installation in the house area. One thing that's alway bugged me not to have. Don't know the black is kinda ugly. Just a older JVC headunit and 2 6.5s. Maybe a new unit with Bluetooth someday.

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2018 F150, ~65k miles

oil change M1 10-30 and motorcraft filter, determined by OLM. I need to go back and figure out the number of miles, I’m guessing it was around 7500? there has been 2-3 seconds of start-up clatter lately, which is new for this vehicle, maybe it will calm down.

2nd transmission drain/fill. Got 7.5 qts out, put 7.5 back. Used a mix of valvoline ULV, amsoil, and 2-3 oz of LG red, at about the ratio in there previously from past attempts. Was driving great, just did this after learning more about the failure modes for the 10r80. Mine certainly exhibited valve body problems, the worst it’s known to have, which LG red resolved wonderfully. Being that the other failure is internal bushing wear, I’m feeling pretty good about the slightly thicker mix I’ve had in there for quite a while, as it drives great now. Reset the adaptives before driving, and it’s currently relearning its ABCs.

the fluid came out pretty dark but still red in tint, not bad, though admittedly I was expecting it to be cleaner since this was done 30k ago.

dug about 150’ of landscape lighting wire trench at my house and a friends, since the ground is soft from the rain. Pushed 12ga cable into it and left for the next steps, whenever that happens. it was quite an all-body workout.
 
Installed the cargo mat and liner, <10 minutes to complete. Never noticed the seat anchor cover was broken off. Ordered an OEM replacement ~$10 each, snap out and in. Shipping was a $1 more than the part. Typical two week delivery? I think the cover might have gotten torn off from use, fatigue or when the 3rd row seat was lowered. 🤷‍♂️ It's always something with used vehicles.

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Periodically by Burnham boiler clogs up the burner tubes enough to flutter when firing and eventually it's enough to blow out the pilot.

I've been listening to it flutter for awhile now and trying to avoid investing the time, but it finally forced me to address it.

Shown here post-cleaning. I just take a wire brush and compressed air to them.
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@clinebarger

yeah, I like letting them have the options. We don’t have to tell him you know another story, simply that you did a full tear down based on the understanding that it suddenly quit, but the job has been complicated because it seems to have ate itself alive for some time causing more damage than expected, AND you had no additional data because the codes had been cleared before you started. That’s enough.

then simply state what the 2 cost options are to get it back on the road.

they probably lied out of embarrassment. Or someone else was driving and didn’t share that info.

seems hardly worth a part by part rebuild….

I gave him 2 different quotes....
*He supplies a unit & I install it.
*I sell him the good core & build it right.

Surprisingly he chose a full tilt build! A 2008 6L90E isn't a straight swap into a 2015 truck, The Valve Body & TEHCM are not compatible.
I was able to save the '15 Valve Body with a Sonnax Zip Kit. Had a low mileage 2017 6L80E TEHCM albeit with the incorrect OS so I had to program it with SPS2.

Borg Warner Frictions, Same as OE.
Updated Stator with a anti-rotational Rings (The '08 pump had a 1st design stator)
Leaked checked the 1234/25R Drum
Sonnax Billet 1234 Piston (OE is known to crack)
Had a 6L80E Durabond Bushing kit which is the same besides the Extension Housing/Output Bushing, No one local had it separate & didn't have any Durabond 6L90E kits either. Bought a kit from Transtar.....What a joke, I pressed in the bushing & couldn't even start the Slip Yoke in it!
Had to chuck the extension housing on the lathe & adjust out the runout, Used my small boring bar & bored out the bushing. Called the Transtar salesman & told him I shouldn't have to spend $90 on a bushing kit to need only one & it be a POS!!

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