What are you working on today?

Doing front brakes unexpectedly on my daughter's Jeep WJ. The pads had a lot of life left when I checked them last summer but my daughter let me know they started making a lot of noise.

I found that one piston (of two) on the passenger side caliper had frozen and a big gnarly crack in the outside face of rotor that shredded the pad.
 
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Monday and Tuesday worked at home

Monday
2003 Kia Sedona
Replaced radiator, rotated tires, changed oil

Tuesday
1994 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Replaced transmission mount, idler arm, snugged front wheel bearings and changed oil

Today I worked at my friend's shop and will be the rest of the week
2017 Ford F-150 5.0 V8
Replaced water pump, rotated tires, inspected brakes, changed oil

2018 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD
rotated tires, replaced air filter, changed oil
 
I’m trying to undo the mess the previous owner of my new Scion made of the audio wiring. Instead of wiring to an adapter they just cut off the factory plugs and left this rat’s nest behind.


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I’m trying to undo the mess the previous owner of my new Scion made of the audio wiring. Instead of wiring to an adapter they just cut off the factory plugs and left this rat’s nest behind.


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Reminds me in a tangential way of a local plumbing company. Logo on the truck says "We repair what your husband fixed". Looks like the prior owner fixed it alright.
 
The van (2001 Villager) won't communicate with the new NYVIP3 NYS inspection machines
But I don't know why 🤷‍♂️
My dad took it to two different shops, they all threw their hands up and said take it to the dealer 👀

It communicates with multiple scan tools I own just fine, I'm confused
So I hosed down the DLC with Deoxit D5, because I've tried nothing and I'm all out of ideas 🙄
No obvious green crusties that I can see 🤔
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Maybe a little shinier?
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I'm gonna take it to the shop tomorrow, so I can witness the procedure live
Maybe the shop will have to put a ticket in/contact VIP tech support

Anyone else having NYS inspection issues with the newer machines?
Eric O of South Main Auto on Youtube just had a vehicle in for the same problem. It came from another shop.
 
The passenger side interior door handle quit working on the 97 GMC farm truck. I replaced it about three years ago when the factory handle broke. I took the panel off and drilled out the rivet that holds the handle on and discovered that the rod that goes to the door latch had come out of the retainer on the handle. Nothing on the handle was actually broke like last time. This handle is a Dorman replacement so who knows how long it will continue to last or if the rod will stay in the retainer.
Installed another rivet and put everything back together and it worked like it should.
 
2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6 V6
R&I upper/lower plenum to replace oil cooler assembly, replaced air filter, changed oil

1978 Ford F100
Replaced battery and battery terminals, distributor cap and rotor button, got it running again, albeit poorly. I'll fiddle with the timing and carburetor more tomorrow

1986 Toyota 4Runner
I've got the rear brakes partially disassembled to remove the shoe adjusters, they're stuck. I got them apart and they are soaking in the parts cleaner overnight. Tomorrow I'll re-lube and reassemble them. Also getting front brake pads and a left inner tie rod
 
I gave him 2 different quotes....
*He supplies a unit & I install it.
*I sell him the good core & build it right.

Surprisingly he chose a full tilt build! A 2008 6L90E isn't a straight swap into a 2015 truck, The Valve Body & TEHCM are not compatible.
I was able to save the '15 Valve Body with a Sonnax Zip Kit. Had a low mileage 2017 6L80E TEHCM albeit with the incorrect OS so I had to program it with SPS2.

Borg Warner Frictions, Same as OE.
Updated Stator with a anti-rotational Rings (The '08 pump had a 1st design stator)
Leaked checked the 1234/25R Drum
Sonnax Billet 1234 Piston (OE is known to crack)
Had a 6L80E Durabond Bushing kit which is the same besides the Extension Housing/Output Bushing, No one local had it separate & didn't have any Durabond 6L90E kits either. Bought a kit from Transtar.....What a joke, I pressed in the bushing & couldn't even start the Slip Yoke in it!
Had to chuck the extension housing on the lathe & adjust out the runout, Used my small boring bar & bored out the bushing. Called the Transtar salesman & told him I shouldn't have to spend $90 on a bushing kit to need only one & it be a POS!!

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It’s amazing how these go together. Admittedly I got a little exciting watching the software update take hold.
 
I’m trying to undo the mess the previous owner of my new Scion made of the audio wiring. Instead of wiring to an adapter they just cut off the factory plugs and left this rat’s nest behind.


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There's a special place in Hades for people that indiscriminately take wire cutters to auto wiring.

Here's an audio system rat nest of my own making (circa 1990) in the Camaro. In my case, I purposely didn't want to cut any of the factory wiring and it ended up like this. Cleaning this up has been on the project list for a few decades now.

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I didn't end up at the shop today. Instead I was sent about two hours away one way to boost off one of my friends daughters car. 2015 Nissan Altima with a stone dead battery. Ended up taking her to the nearest AutoZone and bought a Duralast gold to replace the interstate that was in it. After roughly four and a half hours on the road and a battery swap, my day was pretty much shot and I didn't feel like doing anything else anyway. All my Friday stuff will have to wait until Tuesday.

I was well compensated and reimbursed for my fuel for the trip. No complaints.
 
Bought one of those solar generators off of Facebook. 2 panels (750w total) and a 3072wh battery and inverter
 
Continued work on the Mini: Torqued the cylinder head bolts, locked the cams (lock tool gets in the way of two bolts so it has to come off), and inserted the timing chain cassette (as the assembly is called). Tightened the crank, guide pins and installed the cam sprockets, then did the torque procedure (20 Nm + 90 or 180 degrees for cams, etc., for the TTY bolts). Every time I do this I always worry I’m going to snap that bolt. 😓

Got the engine in time and removed my lock tools. Turned it by hand a few times and checked my work by applying the lock tools again. Success! The engine is in time so I started putting things back on. I need to replace several fasteners so I called it a day.

Today (Saturday) I’m reinstalling the engine mount so that I can roll the car out of the way to fix my minivan (2011 Dodge Grand Caravan) - that needs new rear wheel bearing hubs.
 
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