What are we using for chain lube?

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Adam,
The Marysville Honda plant...the one that mfg's Goldwings, and is right next to the auto plant...
Has a large conveyor system to carry the frames of all the bikes made there to the paint line and then to the final build line. It was installed by me. I was in the Marysville plant for a couple of months originally and have been there many many times since.
I'm all about chains, pal. All sorts of chains.

You want to learn about them fine, I'll help you all I can...but don't think you won't be challanged when you make up things and try to re-invent the wheel.

The reason the link is called a master, is because it is the one that connects one end to the other.
Take a riveted type chain apart at each and every link. You will have a pile of identical parts, and ONE of those identical parts was used to attach the chain and make it endless.
Why is this so hard for you to visualize?

Wait...Berkely! Ah ha! (lol...)
 
quote:

Originally posted by Adam Wade:

quote:

Originally posted by Jaybird:
BTW...Adam, click that last link and read what it says.
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I did. Nothing pertinent to your claim, though.


Here is what that link stated:
tools - QUAD STAKE RIVET TOOL KIT
The perfect compliment to the 08-0135 Jumbo Chain tool
Retain that factory quad stake look
Safely and properly peens soft-nose-type master link pin tip

You should call these guys and let them know they are making a mistake, Adam. They too are calling the rivet link a master link...imagine that.
 
Uh. There's nothing in that text that says anything at all about a rivet master link being the same as any other link in the chain, as you are claiming.

And in answer to your previous query, the endless chains made by chain manufacturers has the machine that assembles the links also assemble the link joining the two ends. They're not put together by hand, and all the links are completely identical in construction and assembly. There *is* no master link on endless chains.

But hey, feel free to pat yourself on the back over... Whatever, I guess.
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I'll keep on writing tech books and articles for motorcycle publications. HAND.
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You first need to know the subject matter before publishing tech articles about it.

It appears that you feel qualifying yourself as a tech writer gave you some more credibility.
I contend it gives you even less credibility, as you are continuing to argue about something you obviously need some schooling on.

Personally, I would want to know the subject matter before I attempted to post up a tech article.
But, if you can get some dupe to pay for your misguided information, then I say...go for it.
 
Looks like I missed a lot of the sparing about this topic, but jst wanted toss my .02 worth in here. I rode my 2008 KLR650 to Alaska this summer and used a combination of WD40 and PJ chain lube. When I returned home after 10,000 + miles and started the cleaning process. Not wanting to dissasemble the bike to completely wash the chain, I used some WD 40 to wash it with the bike on the stand and in low gear, I let it run while spraying the chain, it started loosing all the crud from the Dalton Hwy and lots of dirt roads. I then wiped the chain clean and checked the wear. Much to my surprise it was well within the allowed tolerances. the bike now has 12,230 miles and the chain & sprokets look great. These new '0' ring chains are great. Now I jst use WD40 when I need to. Not sure about the Dupont stuff,and what effect it might have on the '0' rings.

JMHO
 
Is there any additional information available?

Still looking at:
AMSOIL MP Heavy Duty Metal Protector
Dupoint Teflon Chain Saver
Schaeffer's Moly Roller Chain Lube

I've been leaning towards Schaeffer's because they always seem to add a lot of moly to high quality oil. Or perhaps Dupont because they add Teflon. Amsoil has a great reputation, but they don't tell me why/what they do to make a good chain lube product.

Anyone have more to comment?
 
Originally Posted By: RWEST
Wow! The thread that refuses to die!!

A story about some issues with the DuPont stuff.

Personally, I'm a believer in Motorex 622 my own self.
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absolutely, drys dont hold up , that chirpping is from the little spinning cylinder wheels. they are dry from lack of real lubrication.
 
I've owned about 12 bikes in the last 40 years, mostly chain drive. What I use nowadays is 90w gear oil. I've read a lot about what's best, and this is what I choose to use.

After putting my bike on a rear wheel stand, I rub any dirt off the chain with a rag. Then I start the bike up and put it in 2nd gear (and am very careful), and I have a little brush I apply the 90w oil with. Bar & chain oil would work good for this too, maybe better.

Most of the sprays I've seen act like a dirt magnet. Oil does not. It flies off easier, and has to be reapplied more often, but it only takes about 5 minutes once you get used to it. Done in this manner I've seen chains last several years, depending on the kind of rider you are.

L
 
I' ve read most part of the topic, and I've been convinced that (among other things, like the need to properly adjust your chain's tension):

1. Even ring-chains need lubrication
2. Oil-based, gooey-type, lubes are not good
3. To do a decent job you need to use a dry-film lube
4. Preferably with Moly (MoS2)

So, what products are actually available with these characteristics?

Are there any motorcycle-specific chain-lubes that fit the description?

Around where I live I can easily find Wurth's "High Performace Dry Chain Lube" which seems to be quite popular. Is it any good?

At a few Honda dealerships I can also find something labeled "High Performance Chain Lube with Moly"---at least when they 're not out of stock. Is it better than the Wurth stuff?

Can you suggest any other specific brands and products (preferably something widely available in europe)?
 
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I haven't tried the Dupont on my chain yet, but have 2 cans. Ive been using this one can and it all comes out clear and stays that way. I thought it was supposed to be this way til I tried the other can and it comes out watered-down white and dries into a chalk like substance and i guess this is how its supposed to be.

I guess I got a bad can or something. I shook it well and everything.
 
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
I haven't tried the Dupont on my chain yet, but have 2 cans. Ive been using this one can and it all comes out clear and stays that way. I thought it was supposed to be this way til I tried the other can and it comes out watered-down white and dries into a chalk like substance and i guess this is how its supposed to be.

I guess I got a bad can or something. I shook it well and everything.




I have noticed those differences as well and I have attributed to two things.....

1. Temperature
2. Not shaken enough

Every can I have purchased (probably about 12-15 as of yesterday), will spew white stuff if you don't shake the can and hold it upside down while spraying.



Originally Posted By: npat
I' ve read most part of the topic, and I've been convinced that (among other things, like the need to properly adjust your chain's tension):

1. Even ring-chains need lubrication
2. Oil-based, gooey-type, lubes are not good
3. To do a decent job you need to use a dry-film lube
4. Preferably with Moly (MoS2)

So, what products are actually available with these characteristics?

Are there any motorcycle-specific chain-lubes that fit the description?

Around where I live I can easily find Wurth's "High Performace Dry Chain Lube" which seems to be quite popular. Is it any good?

At a few Honda dealerships I can also find something labeled "High Performance Chain Lube with Moly"---at least when they 're not out of stock. Is it better than the Wurth stuff?

Can you suggest any other specific brands and products (preferably something widely available in europe)?


I agree with you dude, but I just can't see the sense in paying $8-$14 a can for chain lube that is questionable to extend the life of the chain beyond Dupont's $4 can. My basic O-Ring Chain lasted 21,000 miles with Dupont and if I hadn't had my head up my [censored] on a 300 mile run where the adjustments slipped and my chain went tight as a banjo string....I am certain it would have going to 25,000 miles. I give my chain a liberal spraying every 500 miles....pavement, dirt, rain or mud. Yep....every 500 miles. And by the way, I cleaned the chain once, at the 3,000 mile mark. After cleaning and spraying with Dupont, it was soooo loud and noisy....I never did it again.
 
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Quote:
I haven't tried the Dupont on my chain yet, but have 2 cans. Ive been using this one can and it all comes out clear and stays that way. I thought it was supposed to be this way til I tried the other can and it comes out watered-down white and dries into a chalk like substance and i guess this is how its supposed to be.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6veuSYgf68U

If I was using oil, I'd use either gear oil, maybe 140wt, for the extreme pressure additives. Or chainsaw bar & chain oil for its additive package including the tackifiers.

I have excellent results with Schaeffer #227 Moly Roller Chain Lube. Dry moly and graphite in a volatile evaporating penetrating solvent. No fling. The rub is that you'll need to find a Schaeffer rep willing to sell case of 12 aerosol cans, then maybe find buddies to share the case with.
 
gear oil 140 typically has alot of cleaning in it no stick properties, the Marine 80/90 weight stuff offers more adhension to protect sprocket teeth , it takes a very high film strength to eliminate sprocket wear.

light lubes or drys need not apply
 
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