Hey everyone we found a house we really like it's out of town in a good are nice big pretty yard big deck. Very nice little house. One concern and I know it doesn't pass USDA or fha requirements. The well and septic are only 30 ft apart not the 50ft that is required. The water tests are ok according to the seller. The water looked and smelled fine. I realize that at some point moving the well would be wise. However my question is how big of a concern is this from a health safety stand point? The well is a deep case style well. Everything seems to be in good working order as well. The well is a little up hill from the septic as well. So anyone that has knowledge on this is appreciated. I would move the well eventually but from a safety stand point is this typically ok or do I have to fix it pretty much immediately?
Well and septic advice and thoughts
- Thread starter ram_man
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I'd consult with a lawyer to make sure it's grandfathered in and the town can't make you move it to be up to code.
As far as safety, a paper filter along with a UV filter will keep you from catching any harmful bacteria. You'll still need to get the water tested annually, and of course have everything inspected/the septic pumped before purchase.
As far as safety, a paper filter along with a UV filter will keep you from catching any harmful bacteria. You'll still need to get the water tested annually, and of course have everything inspected/the septic pumped before purchase.
You might want to check with the County Health Dept to get an answer. Those folks are usually pretty savvy and have no irons in the fire. I wouldn't think 20 feet would make a diff, particularly if the drain field is downhill, or away from the well.
A simple water test will show if it has elevated bacterial levels. Well worth doing that or getting a copy of results if they include that type of testing.
The guideline is for modern systems in terms of separation. You can’t afford to relocate the well likely. That cost runs &10k-$40k dependant on depth.
The guideline is for modern systems in terms of separation. You can’t afford to relocate the well likely. That cost runs &10k-$40k dependant on depth.
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Well is 200 ft I believe and yes this has a plastic septic tank drain field is about 100 ft away.
I would still have it tested. For the sake of discussion let’s say your well is 30 feet higher in elevation than your septic since you mentioned it was higher. But the well is 200 feet down. So your well intake is below the septic.
I used to own a 1.25 acre property with a well and septic. The space between them was 100 feet which was the code. Yet when I sold the property the water tested positive for e-coli. Turns out it likely came from my neighbor. So check where everyone else’s septic is too.
Even if the water is positive it’s not a deal killer. The well guy poured a couple gallons of Cascade dishwasher liquid down the casing and after a set period the well was flushed by running the outside faucets for several hours.
Codes and costs will vary across the country but wells are not cheap and septics easily run five figures here plus engineering costs which are required.
Well is 200 ft I believe and yes this has a plastic septic tank drain field is about 100 ft away.
I would still have it tested. For the sake of discussion let’s say your well is 30 feet higher in elevation than your septic since you mentioned it was higher. But the well is 200 feet down. So your well intake is below the septic.
I used to own a 1.25 acre property with a well and septic. The space between them was 100 feet which was the code. Yet when I sold the property the water tested positive for e-coli. Turns out it likely came from my neighbor. So check where everyone else’s septic is too.
Even if the water is positive it’s not a deal killer. The well guy poured a couple gallons of Cascade dishwasher liquid down the casing and after a set period the well was flushed by running the outside faucets for several hours.
Codes and costs will vary across the country but wells are not cheap and septics easily run five figures here plus engineering costs which are required.
I am in the business. Check with the county. Have the water tested and certified bacteria free. Taste and odor mean nothing. Ask for a UV sterilizer after the test. The seller should pay for this. Have water tested annually or even bi-annually. See what it will take to re-locate well or septic. In my area, they need to be 100' apart. Also remember that this could be a major issue on re-sale of the property.
Find out what direction the underground water flows! Here the minimum between the well and septic is 100ft. Here it flows North and the septic at my place is West of the well.
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You cannot depend on the way the ground water flows to protect you. If a very small fissure opens up, you could be in trouble. If the well is not grouted properly, that can create problems. You have a very risky situation on your hands. Can you even get a loan on the property with the potential problems. Carefully cover all your bases. Ask for money toward a new well. This is your only chance to do that.
Originally Posted By: ram_man
To install a new well in the front yard was $7,000 not sure what moving the septic would be.
Depends. Is the lot small or wet around it hence the close proximity? What part of septic is close ? The answer could be from $2000 all the way to $15k. It depends on design of system and maintaining the flow of water by gravity. Relocation can muck that up if lot is flatter or uphill.
To install a new well in the front yard was $7,000 not sure what moving the septic would be.
Depends. Is the lot small or wet around it hence the close proximity? What part of septic is close ? The answer could be from $2000 all the way to $15k. It depends on design of system and maintaining the flow of water by gravity. Relocation can muck that up if lot is flatter or uphill.
I haven't worked directly with those types of loans in a little while. I don't remember the feds giving variances to those setbacks. They would usually just move the tank(s). The 100ft. to the field is good, so it looks like that could be done.
The 30ft. from the well to the tank really isn't the biggest of deals. Tanks aren't supposed to leak. A plastic tank must be relatively new. At 200 feet down and 30 feet laterally it's very unlikely there will be contamination.
Lead test of the water/plumbing is required for the older homes. I can't remember the year off the top of my head.
The 30ft. from the well to the tank really isn't the biggest of deals. Tanks aren't supposed to leak. A plastic tank must be relatively new. At 200 feet down and 30 feet laterally it's very unlikely there will be contamination.
Lead test of the water/plumbing is required for the older homes. I can't remember the year off the top of my head.
Originally Posted By: SevenBizzos
I haven't worked directly with those types of loans in a little while. I don't remember the feds giving variances to those setbacks. They would usually just move the tank(s). The 100ft. to the field is good, so it looks like that could be done.
The 30ft. from the well to the tank really isn't the biggest of deals. Tanks aren't supposed to leak. A plastic tank must be relatively new. At 200 feet down and 30 feet laterally it's very unlikely there will be contamination.
Lead test of the water/plumbing is required for the older homes. I can't remember the year off the top of my head.
I think it will be fine too. I'm sure my field is 100' away from my well but probably the tank is more like 80'. Anyways, unless its all sand and gravel between the tank and the bottom of the well, the odds of getting bacteria down there are pretty low, if your tank even leaks.
I haven't worked directly with those types of loans in a little while. I don't remember the feds giving variances to those setbacks. They would usually just move the tank(s). The 100ft. to the field is good, so it looks like that could be done.
The 30ft. from the well to the tank really isn't the biggest of deals. Tanks aren't supposed to leak. A plastic tank must be relatively new. At 200 feet down and 30 feet laterally it's very unlikely there will be contamination.
Lead test of the water/plumbing is required for the older homes. I can't remember the year off the top of my head.
I think it will be fine too. I'm sure my field is 100' away from my well but probably the tank is more like 80'. Anyways, unless its all sand and gravel between the tank and the bottom of the well, the odds of getting bacteria down there are pretty low, if your tank even leaks.
Note that the water table will typically rise with a change upward in elevation, so the well being on a hill probably isn't an advantage.
Originally Posted By: Johnny2Bad
Note that the water table will typically rise with a change upward in elevation, so the well being on a hill probably isn't an advantage.
Atleast the well is up hill so if the septic system gets totally flooded(toilet valve sticks for a week etc.) any effluent that gets to the surface or near surface will be travelling downhill away from the well.
Note that the water table will typically rise with a change upward in elevation, so the well being on a hill probably isn't an advantage.
Atleast the well is up hill so if the septic system gets totally flooded(toilet valve sticks for a week etc.) any effluent that gets to the surface or near surface will be travelling downhill away from the well.
JTK
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Where I'm from, as long as the well passes a water quality test and the septic system passes a dye test, both done by the county health department, all is well. IIRC, it costs about $300 for each test.
Like said and as you'd expect, these systems can be issues down the road and are costly. Back in 2011 when we sold our previous home, it was the wettest spring in 100yrs in my area. My ~55yr/old septic system would not pass the county dye test and I had to replace the whole system before the sale could go through. It cost me $8500 which was a relative bargain for a 1500gal sand filter, gravity feed system.
In regards to the plastic septic tank thing? I've never seen one in use in my area. They're all concrete tanks here with 2-3 chambers and 2-3 access ports/covers. I've seen and helped people work on old steel tank systems. Those can get scary when they rust thin.
In regards to a well, my SIL has issues with hers when they were selling their 10yr old home. It cost them thousands for a water treatment system to get the well to pass the test so the sale could go through.
Long story short, your taxes might be a bit higher with city water and sewer, but they sure are nice to have.
Like said and as you'd expect, these systems can be issues down the road and are costly. Back in 2011 when we sold our previous home, it was the wettest spring in 100yrs in my area. My ~55yr/old septic system would not pass the county dye test and I had to replace the whole system before the sale could go through. It cost me $8500 which was a relative bargain for a 1500gal sand filter, gravity feed system.
In regards to the plastic septic tank thing? I've never seen one in use in my area. They're all concrete tanks here with 2-3 chambers and 2-3 access ports/covers. I've seen and helped people work on old steel tank systems. Those can get scary when they rust thin.
In regards to a well, my SIL has issues with hers when they were selling their 10yr old home. It cost them thousands for a water treatment system to get the well to pass the test so the sale could go through.
Long story short, your taxes might be a bit higher with city water and sewer, but they sure are nice to have.
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I'm on well water now in a 16yo house. Never again. Need a generator in case you lose power. Need a pump every few years for hundreds of dollars. And sooner or later wells go dry. That'll set you back 10 to 30k. And also my septic and leach field are approximately 50 feet from the Wellhead.
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