But what would happen if you used something else ?. Like from whatever the dealer uses in 50 gallon drums, with no name brand on it. You would never know the difference.,,
Wear vs Viscosity
- Thread starter Al
- Start date
I guess that since I change my own oil I know better, so I use an oil that has the proper SAPS level and adequate HT/HS. But I agree that for people who have others changing the oil it comes down to trust.
When I was getting free oil changes at the dealer they did list what oil they used including brand. That dealership was honest with me in the other work they did on the vehicle and how they acted, so I suppose I trusted them with this as well. I'm not sure I would continue to go to a dealer that I didn't trust.
When I was getting free oil changes at the dealer they did list what oil they used including brand. That dealership was honest with me in the other work they did on the vehicle and how they acted, so I suppose I trusted them with this as well. I'm not sure I would continue to go to a dealer that I didn't trust.
In extreme cold starts approaching the cold flow test point, will not the oil pump be in bypass where now the oiling drills and pathways will be presented with but a constant pressure at the mains drill and flow will now be proportional to specific orifice and drill cross section? With multiple discretionary pathways, this can lead to lubricant starvation typically appearing in distal upper structures such as the cam box where on most current designs there exist no bearing insert in the OHC cam journals and oiling orifice are relatively restrictive.
In such a scenario it would be prudent to select the appropriate winter and KV100 viscosity for anticipated ambient operating conditions.
- Arco
Oil pumps will be in pressure relief (what you call bypass) to some degree in any very cold start-up situation, even if the right W rating is used. More so if the wrong W rating is used. It happens to millions of cars every winter in the USA alone. But they are not all "blown-up" or ready for a rebuild at 75K miles because that happens. Sure, the oil volume will be cut back to some degree in that situation, but at low RPM while the engine is warming up the volume of oil flow will still give adequate lubrication. But if you did a cold start-up at -25F, then drove off at high RPM 15 seconds after the cold start-up then it's possible the oil flow volume would be too low to support the required lubrication. When I lived in the middle north of the country (often below zero winters), I always let the engine warm up on those super cold days before driving off. Also used a block heater which also helped. They didn't have 0W oils back then from what I recall.
Of course, that's been said all along that choosing the right W rating is far more important than the KV100 grade, unless the KV100 grade is too low for the operating conditions - ie, like running too thin of oil on the race track, causing loss of adequate oil film thickness causing massive metal-to-metal contact, excessive wear and possibly major failure (spun rod and windowed block).
Choosing too high of a W rating = bad.
Choosing too low of a W rating = still works fine.
Choosing too low of a KV100 grade = bad.
Choosing "too high" of a KV100 grade = still works fine.
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Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Our Kia doesn't agree with you there. 0w(30) created chatter.
Manufacturer calls for 5w and 10w.
It's one of those nit-pick engines that's sensitive to what I feed it. Our Hyundai likes anything and everything.
All of which doesn’t take into account that the winter rating is separate from the HT/HS. Did this “chatter” occur with a Euro 0W-30?
I don't see how a W rating of 0W is going to cause start-up rattle. When it's cold, a 0W oil is still way thicker than it is when hot. Something else is happening, like the oil filter and galleries are draining down more for some reason.
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- Jul 22, 2022
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ADBV the culprit?
So many misconceptions about what the winter rating means and does not mean.
