I really like what I am seeing and hearing about Mobile 1 EP 5w30. I just bought a 2005 Grand Prix V6. I have a little over 1000 miles on it, and thought about going to M1 EP when I reach 3,000. Since my car is still under warranty, what if something happened to the engine? Whould GM be able to take a sample of the oil and know that it was EP...which is not approved for cars under warranty due to not having the Starburst?
Warranty Question
- Thread starter Mulaka
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Good question!
I just switched our two new 2005 Subaru Outbacks to Mobil 1 EP 5w30 at 3000 miles...and plan to go 10,000 mile OCI with a filter change and top up at 5000 mile intervals.
I also switched one to 5 oz of VSOT and 5 oz of LC20, and 3 oz of FP60/tank...and it runs better with that brew. And I'll do the same with the second car.
Both engines were running fine at 3000 miles and I didn't have any concerns about problems.
I guess the the safe practice would be to use an oil that meets all of GM's requirements and change at an interval less than or equal to the GM interval for either normal or sever service.
I also have a 2005 Chevy Silverado with 8,000 miles and since it started throwing codes at 300 miles and it took 5 visits to the dealer, and quite a few ECM and various component swaps and 8000 miles to diagnose and fix... I had the dealership change the oil for free about every 1500 mile with the GM approved oil and filter.
Since I know I had warranty issues, and may still have more I didn't want to give them any loophole to exploit.
To GM's credit they did give me a 4 year 100,000 mile extended warranty for free to make sure that any problems are covered. It took a few months of phone calls, but GM did stand by the customer.
I just switched our two new 2005 Subaru Outbacks to Mobil 1 EP 5w30 at 3000 miles...and plan to go 10,000 mile OCI with a filter change and top up at 5000 mile intervals.
I also switched one to 5 oz of VSOT and 5 oz of LC20, and 3 oz of FP60/tank...and it runs better with that brew. And I'll do the same with the second car.
Both engines were running fine at 3000 miles and I didn't have any concerns about problems.
I guess the the safe practice would be to use an oil that meets all of GM's requirements and change at an interval less than or equal to the GM interval for either normal or sever service.
I also have a 2005 Chevy Silverado with 8,000 miles and since it started throwing codes at 300 miles and it took 5 visits to the dealer, and quite a few ECM and various component swaps and 8000 miles to diagnose and fix... I had the dealership change the oil for free about every 1500 mile with the GM approved oil and filter.
Since I know I had warranty issues, and may still have more I didn't want to give them any loophole to exploit.
To GM's credit they did give me a 4 year 100,000 mile extended warranty for free to make sure that any problems are covered. It took a few months of phone calls, but GM did stand by the customer.
It has to have the starburst to meet warranty requirements?
wELL, it is very unusual to have catastrophic engien failure due to oil. Oil is rarely if ever the cause unless it is left in too long and sludges or sump is dry. Wear occurs over time and any chepa oil will get an engine over the waranty period. Thus, what the manufacturer looks for is the receipts and that is it. Now, as oil never is the casue of an engine failure under warranty you have to go to court to prove that the oil was not the culprit whereas if you had receits within the manaul guidelines the dealer would not even ( well probably would anyway) question the failure and just fix it. Without receits or outside the recommended period they will automatically deny the claim as policy. So, to avoid the hassle change per the manual or if you go beyond be prepared to prove in court that the oil was not the cause. Probability of a failure due to oil about ZERO. In my cases, I go with the oil I want and don't worry about any warranties, most are not worth the papre they are printed on anyway.
Hmmm...
With that mindset, Don't buy any new cars. Why if you don't want the warrenty.
I guess that I got Ford to cover my Headgaskets on my 1999 Ford Taurus with 62k miles that was 3 years old (oh and it had a 3year - 36k mile warrenty on it) was just "luck".
No, It was my records that I kept, The fact I showed them I used the Correct oil (they did ask what Oil I ran BTW) and changed it every 3-4k miles which was more often than they required. Also the UOA that I had showed them that I was serious about maintanence.
Why Did they ask what oil you may inquire?
Because they wanted to see if I had overheated it and to see if I was following their requirements. If I was not, They could have said forget it.
I guess they agreed that in a well (correctly) maintained car, it should not need headgaskets in 62k!
Sorry, If I buy new cars, its THEIR engine till the warrenty runs out. And I'll FOLLOW their requirements for what type, visc and how often or better than risk it.
Never had to get a lawyer and trust me, With a few outfits I've owned in the past, I've gone thru Warrenty work more than the other guy..
Take care, Bill
Read your car's manual. Does it say "reccomended" or required" when it mentions the Starburst?
That may be your clue.
I suggest you follow Mobil's advice, though.. if you're in warranty and wanna use synthetics, use M1. Once your warranty passes, use M1 EP if that's your preference.
Finally, if you don't have the Supercharger on your Pontiac, you are probably safe with conventional oils in Arkansas unless you plan on doing extended oil change intervals.
That 3800 V6, may God bless it, is a great engine and not known for being hard on motor oils.
I'm not saying to not use synthetic... motor oil choice is NOT always a rational decision, especially to the kind of guys who come on this board, and I'd never presume to tell you what to do. Heck, if you're using M1 because you like the pretty grey bottles, good for you. If you ran Syntec because the shape of those spiffy black bottles turned you on, more power to you. You'll be happy with any oil that meets your grade requirements and is SL or better.
That may be your clue.
I suggest you follow Mobil's advice, though.. if you're in warranty and wanna use synthetics, use M1. Once your warranty passes, use M1 EP if that's your preference.
Finally, if you don't have the Supercharger on your Pontiac, you are probably safe with conventional oils in Arkansas unless you plan on doing extended oil change intervals.
That 3800 V6, may God bless it, is a great engine and not known for being hard on motor oils.
I'm not saying to not use synthetic... motor oil choice is NOT always a rational decision, especially to the kind of guys who come on this board, and I'd never presume to tell you what to do. Heck, if you're using M1 because you like the pretty grey bottles, good for you. If you ran Syntec because the shape of those spiffy black bottles turned you on, more power to you. You'll be happy with any oil that meets your grade requirements and is SL or better.
You might be interested in Mobil 5000 or 7500. They both meet GM's warranty standards. Since the OLM is set for a dino oil, you might be safe running the 7500 at the GM interval.
"Starburst" mainly certifies that the oil is GF-4 compliant - which includes current API "SM" and energy conserving provisions. There aren't any durability issues involved save for the possibility (not proved) of premature catalytic converter failure. An engine manufacturer would have a hard time proving you used a non-starburst motor oil (even with oil analysis), and, even if it did, they'd also have the additional burden of proving that use of a "GF-3"/"SL" oil contributed materially to the demise of your engine - a tough sell because, except for gross owner negligence, there are very few oil-related engine failures. EM isn't unduly concerned about the "danger" to the engine of using one of its "EP" synthetics - it's simply officially distancing itself from liability issues in case you run into hassles involving your car's mechanical or emmissions warranties. If it were me (controversy avoidance-inclined when it comes to warranty issues), I'd use one of the "standard" synthetics if I actually believed synthetics're superior to current conventionals in normal service and sleep all warm and fuzzy at night secure in the knowledge that, if the engine tanks under warranty, it's GM's problem.
6094M specifies that your oil be "easy to pump" at given temperatures, as follows:
"...maximum allowable low temperature pumping viscosity as follows: 30,000 centipoise at minus 40 degrees C for 0W oils; 40,000 cP at minus 35 degrees C for 5W oils; and 50,000 cP at minus 30 degrees C for 10W oils."
So, uh... basically, Mulaka, you'll NEVER see temps that low in Arkansas. I assure you ANY Mobil 1 5W30 of any description WOULD PASS the test, if Mobil bothered testing it.
"...maximum allowable low temperature pumping viscosity as follows: 30,000 centipoise at minus 40 degrees C for 0W oils; 40,000 cP at minus 35 degrees C for 5W oils; and 50,000 cP at minus 30 degrees C for 10W oils."
So, uh... basically, Mulaka, you'll NEVER see temps that low in Arkansas. I assure you ANY Mobil 1 5W30 of any description WOULD PASS the test, if Mobil bothered testing it.
TOMJONES76 but if it does not have the certified for gasoline engines? I dont think that M1EP or any high mileage oils have that or even GC. Because I have not seen anything stateing that these oils meet GM warrently requiremnts.
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