VW GTI 2.0T TSI Engine Questions

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Hello everyone just purchased a 2013 VW GTI with the TSI motor and really enjoy this car. I actually can say its one of the best cars I have owned thus far. The build quality and the overal practicality along with a shot of performance its just a great combo.

here is a photo for you guys and gals to tell me what you think
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http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd502/jeffs2006evoix/vwgti_zpse957df4f.jpg[/IMG]]2013 VW GTI

So let me get into why I am posting. I had very little knowledge about the 2.0T TSI motor in this GTI before buying it. I have been driving Lancer EvO's since 2003 so I am not new to turbo charged cars, but this car is just different than my 4G63's im used to.

I have found that this Direct Injection Motor in the VW may have its good and bad sides and I need help from folks here that may have some VW experience or just the 2.0T TSI experiene. I do know that the TSI is the updated version of the FSI. In 2008.5 they switched to the TSI. Now, the DI technology seemed like a beautiful thing, it cools the intake charge of the engine so compression ratios can be upped, and its more fuel efficent. The bad I have recently been reading is they tend to carbon up. Now how long until this actually occurs is pure speculation and is subjective since everyone drives and takes care of their cars differetnly. So now I am thinking, ok, how do I beat this from happening? The manual specs for "Top Tier" Gas and that is really a wash because most fuels these days, especially in California where I live are so full of Ethanol and other ingredients to make the cars produce less smog almost all gas in CA can be considered "Top Tier", but for sank of arguement I have been using Shell V Power, or Chevron, Texaco, 76, all of which are labelded "Top Tier" so that is a check.

VW has these 10,000 mile OCI's that I think are kinda optimistic for a turbo charged car. OEM fill is Syntec 5w40 and that is what the dealer I will be taking it to will use. I though, plan on changing the oil myself at 1500-2000 miles then will change it again at 5000 miles then every 5000 miles there after, having the dealer do every other oil change since its free. Since Carbon is a known cause of problems in DI motors, I was thinking that maybe PU 5w40 would be a better choice over the Syntec. My theory on this is also subjective because I have to assume that PU is as good as they say. I figure any oil that may clean any carbon in those cylinder walls would help the situation. Thoughts on that anyone?

Since the DI motor sprays into the side of the cylinder not from the tip like Port Fuel Injection, I am still concerned about carbon build up on the valves. Some folks have been using some kind of spray that goes in the intake and cleans the valves, but honestly I have never done that kind of thing. I am savy around cars, but I am not so willing to tinker on this motor as I was on my Evos in the past. The Evo was easy to work on, and was very forgiving. This thing?? I am scared to touch the dang thing. I will do the oil changes and air filters and such that is easy, but I really need some advice on how to keep the Carbon down on this thing. I can always resort to a "Italian Tune Up" but I am not even sure if that would help or not. I plan on joining a VW forum soon, but BITOG is so full of help for so many different things, I figured to start here first.

I will add too, that I am a big fan of this DSG transmission. Takes a little time to get used to, but its quick very quick shifting and suits this car perfectly. Its actually one reason why I chose this car over a WRX or a new Evo. The New EVO does have a MR Model with a Dual Clutch set up but it runs near $40K and that is just oo much, the WRX doesnt offer it, nor does the new Focus ST.

Anyway, any help woould be much appreciated. Thanks for your time in reading this. Kinda long I know. haha.

Jeff
 
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NICE CAR, love the wheels!

Pennzoil 5w-40 is awesome and i would love to see a UOA with it.

Personally, i would dump the Factory Fill at 5k or 6 months. Run another 5k or 6 months OCI. Then just run the specified 10k or 1 year. I did a little searching a found a UOA of a GTI Turbo. Oil had 5.4k miles with a 4.0 TBN left, and another with 9k miles on Lubri Moly 5w-30, a TBN of 2.0.
 
Ah you bought the car I should just give in and buy.

I believe there was another thread started by a new Focus ST owner about avoiding the potential negative effects of DI.
 
Those VWs are sharp cars. I wish they sold reasonably priced extended factory warranties like Honda, Ford and probably a couple of others, too. People like me would take a chance on them.
 
Those VWs are sharp cars. I wish they sold reasonably priced extended factory warranties like Honda, Ford and probably a couple of others, too. People like me would take a chance on them.
 
The newer VAG FSI motors do not suffer from carbon buildup nearly as bad as the old ones do -- greatly revised PCV system.

BTW, never seen those wheels before. Very cool.
 
You're gonna need a 36mm socket to dump the oil, theres also a special drain tube that screws into the filter housing to drain it, if you don't want to make a mess.
 
Nice car... I would seriously consider a golf next time I buy a car, but a lower range model like the 1.2TSI 6-spd manual.
 
Not on my car. Requires a 19mm socket and the oil pan is easily accessable. Actually the easiest car I have had to change oil on.

Jeff
 
Thanks everyone for you comments.
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its my 1st VW after 20 yrs of Asian cars. I just have always admired the GTI so I said what the heck
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Seems allot of folks like the rims. They are optional and are called "laguna" rims through VW. They are new for 2013 and come on the GTI with the sunroof and navi options
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Thanks for the link for the PU UOA very interesting....:)

Jeff
 
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Not on my car. Requires a 19mm socket and the oil pan is easily accessable. Actually the easiest car I have had to change oil on.

Jeff

Yeah, on CC it is also 19mm!
PU 5W40 is very good oil. I use don Passat 18.T once, just to try. Usually I used GC.
Well, I liked PU, however, pumpability in cold mornings (this was Alabama) was not like GC.
So I use on CC Castrol 0W30.
There is new Castrol on market, 0W40, Made in Belgium, that could be very good stuff too.
When it comes to Castrol 5W40, try to avoid it!
 
CONGRATULATIONS! California has the weather where GTI can be fully appreciated to max, as a former VW driver myself, I too adore GTI's. Almost went for one few years ago but the extremely high insurance rates in my region made me decide otherwise.

Jeffs2006EvoIX, as per my observation in most cases sludge issue occurred when a non-VW spec oil had been in use in a Turbo Engine.

PU 5w-40 will be a great choice, and changing oil at half interval is not a bad idea either, although do find out how long does the Dealership says to run the Break-in Oil for?

Dealer's OE Edge Professional = Syntec 5W-40, not a very popular oil on here... and strangely M1 0W40 (my favourite these days) is not a very popular in VW forums.


Wishing you many many goodtimes!


P.S - A fellow member has ran PP for short intervals of 4K miles or so successfully in 1.8T.
 
the ea888 does suffer from the dreaded intake buildup. Water/Methanol injection does not help. It does its magic inside the combustion chamber.

Other issues:
Intake flapper has a tendency to go bad.
Water pump premature failure
And VW notorious coil packs.

For oil changes... you can buy the Mann filter for less money, than the same exact filter, but in VAG packaging. Since the filter is up top, might as well use the oil extraction method from the dipstick. It is an approved method by VW in the service manual. Another option is the Fumoto oil drain valve (which is what I use)

I prefer to use Shell Rotella T6....great oil, but since it doesn't have the actual VW certification, no good for warranty claims.
 
I am not sure why M1 0w40 has a bad rap with the 2.0T motor. Every forum I have gone to says that its not a good choice. I will have dig deaper. Something about shearing and acid levels? But culd be wrong. I also hear the castrol is no good too so why does vw choose it? hey own stock in castrol or what? Haha

Jeff
 
Every car on the planet has some quirks I guess that is what makes each car unique I guess haha. Meth/Water injection I do have experience with. I ran a aquamist kit inmy Evo and it made 420whp. Only thing is this VW is new and under warranty. I don't wnt an automatic fail using it. Additionally I don't like the use of Meth/water in. Hatchback because their really is no physical metal barrior between the tank in the runk nd the passengers. To really make meth work you need to run 70% M1 with 30% water. That is flamable and with no barriers and my kids in the car? Just too risky. With the Evo it was in the trunk with a metal barrier I felt safer using it. I also don't know how much power the DSG can take and I don't wish to find out. Parts on this car are very expensive. I plan on using OEM filters since I can get them for $10 each.

Jeff
 
To help keep valve deposits down, you want an oil that's not overly loaded with additives (mid/low SAPs) and that has low NOACK (low volatility). The weaker add pack shouldn't hurt any if you'll be changing it at half the recommended interval anyway.
 
GC, BC, and M1 0w-40 are full SAPS oils, so I wouldn't expect to be much difference between them in terms of add pack.

As for NOACK, since neither Castrol nor XOM publish this data, we have no way of knowing, other than they have to have NOACK of no more than 10% since that is the requirement of MB 229.5 spec which they all meet.

But if you can find an oil that meets VW 502.00 or 504.00 spec and lists NOACK significantly below 10%, that would be the ticket.

I think Amsoil Euro 5w-40 (mid SAPS version) would do well in this application, but it's not on the official VW list, of course.
 
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