Euro Oil for 2UR-GSE

[pman9003]

Recently picked up an LC500 with the 5.0L 2UR-GSE. Same V8 that was in the GS F and RC F. I was planning to run Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0W40 since its stout and readily available. I'm not worried about the slightly higher viscosity, Toyota specs 5W30, but the main bearing and rod bearing clearances in the 2UR match (or are slightly larger) than the 3UR which Toyota says can run up to 20W50. I live in the SE USA, so summer temps are kinda high and winter temps are rarely below 20F.

My question is more on the add pack side. Lexus spec is ILSAC GF-5 and from my understanding the current formula of Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0W40 should be fine. The 2UR is NA and has both port and direct injection. Full Synthetic meets MB229.5 and is the spec oil for Turbo DI AMG engines, so I don't see there being an issue. I believe the BMW and Porsche certs it carries also have more stringent requirements than GF-5.

Am I missing anything?

 

[Japanese]

Am I missing anything?

No, you're not.
I think you chose the right oil. Don't worry about the ILSAC GF-5, that is mostly for EPA requirements. The ACEA A3/B4 spec (the 0W-40 has) is the one of the highest for engine protection.

 

[scrllock]

Recently picked up an LC500 with the 5.0L 2UR-GSE. Same V8 that was in the GS F and RC F. I was planning to run Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0W40 since its stout and readily available. I'm not worried about the slightly higher viscosity, Toyota specs 5W30, but the main bearing and rod bearing clearances in the 2UR match (or are slightly larger) than the 3UR which Toyota says can run up to 20W50. I live in the SE USA, so summer temps are kinda high and winter temps are rarely below 20F.

My question is more on the add pack side. Lexus spec is ILSAC GF-5 and from my understanding the current formula of Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0W40 should be fine. The 2UR is NA and has both port and direct injection. Full Synthetic meets MB229.5 and is the spec oil for Turbo DI AMG engines, so I don't see there being an issue. I believe the BMW and Porsche certs it carries also have more stringent requirements than GF-5.

Am I missing anything?

Outside of a specific warranty concern, I think there's few engines that oil isn't great in. The viscosity is a total non-issue and the current formula is 100% ok for DI engines. Since it has D4-S and no GPF, any concerns about being full-SAPS would be moot.

 

[edyvw]

Recently picked up an LC500 with the 5.0L 2UR-GSE. Same V8 that was in the GS F and RC F. I was planning to run Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0W40 since its stout and readily available. I'm not worried about the slightly higher viscosity, Toyota specs 5W30, but the main bearing and rod bearing clearances in the 2UR match (or are slightly larger) than the 3UR which Toyota says can run up to 20W50. I live in the SE USA, so summer temps are kinda high and winter temps are rarely below 20F.

My question is more on the add pack side. Lexus spec is ILSAC GF-5 and from my understanding the current formula of Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0W40 should be fine. The 2UR is NA and has both port and direct injection. Full Synthetic meets MB229.5 and is the spec oil for Turbo DI AMG engines, so I don't see there being an issue. I believe the BMW and Porsche certs it carries also have more stringent requirements than GF-5.

Am I missing anything?

I run min HTHS 3.5 in my 3UR-FE.
Numerous people run Mobil 1 0W40 in 3UR engines.

 

[chris719]

PP Euro 5W-40 good choice also

 

[f355spider]

Nice car. My buddy bought one five years ago...he told me last week he now has 118,000 miles and according to his Lexus dealer, has the highest mileage one in the area. Always dealer serviced, he takes it in every 5k when the oil life monitor comes on. He said it has been the least expensive car to service and own he has ever had. (previous cars were a couple Maserati Coupes, BMW M6, Aston Martin DB9, all were used as daily drivers)

 

[pman9003]

No, you're not.
I think you chose the right oil. Don't worry about the ILSAC GF-5, that is mostly for EPA requirements. The ACEA A3/B4 spec (the 0W-40 has) is the one of the highest for engine protection.

Outside of a specific warranty concern, I think there's few engines that oil isn't great in. The viscosity is a total non-issue and the current formula is 100% ok for DI engines. Since it has D4-S and no GPF, any concerns about being full-SAPS would be moot.

I run min HTHS 3.5 in my 3UR-FE.
Numerous people run Mobil 1 0W40 in 3UR engines.

Thanks for the feedback everyone! Just wanted to make sure my reasoning was sound.

Not really worried about warranty, these engines aren't known for having any issues even at high mileage.

 

[edyvw]

Thanks for the feedback everyone! Just wanted to make sure my reasoning was sound.

Not really worried about warranty, these engines aren't known for having any issues even at high mileage.

Head gaskets are becoming an issue. Is it acidity or just bad design, who knows. Could be both.
Valve cover will leak, and it will leak internally.
Going Euro oils might prolong chain tensioner life. If you hear rattling on drivers side of an engine, don’t look any further.

 

[tired]

Am I missing anything?

No you're not missing anything. Your choice is excellent. You have one of the highest "oil insight to post ratio" I've seen here. You should just quit now.

I'm not worried about the slightly higher viscosity

You already understand something it takes many here years to get through their head, and for some it never does.

Head gaskets are becoming an issue

Yes they are. They seem to pop up in ones that haven't had their coolant changed regularly. For me to buy a used UR, I would have to see coolant flushes every 50k.

Coolant valley plate leak is also somewhat common too.

 

[pman9003]

No you're not missing anything. Your choice is excellent. You have one of the highest "oil insight to post ratio" I've seen here. You should just quit now.


You already understand something it takes many here years to get through their head, and for some it never does.


Yes they are. They seem to pop up in ones that haven't had their coolant changed regularly. For me to buy a used UR, I would have to see coolant flushes every 50k.

Coolant valley plate leak is also somewhat common too.

Thanks, I research this stuff extensively and try to make sure I understand the fundamentals, as well as the how and why.

Yeah the coolant thing is weird with these UR series engines. I have a 2020 Tundra with a 3UR I bought brand new right when the pandemic hit. I replaced the coolant with fresh Toyota SLLC last year even though I was only at ~25K miles. It was about 5.5yrs from the truck's build date so I figured better be safe than sorry. The LC500's 2UR will be getting the same treatment in late 2030 based on its build date lol. Both of these vehicles will have the valley plate leak eventually, but I'm not worried about. Its a repair I can easily do myself and likely won't be an issue for some time anyways.

I'm on my 3rd OCI with Mobil1 FS 0W40 in the Tundra, I was running the TGMO 0W20 until I depleted my stash. I knew the 0W40 would be fine in the 2UR, but it never hurts to get a gut check.

 

[tired]

Thanks, I research this stuff extensively and try to make sure I understand the fundamentals, as well as the how and why.

Yeah the coolant thing is weird with these UR series engines. I have a 2020 Tundra with a 3UR I bought brand new right when the pandemic hit. I replaced the coolant with fresh Toyota SLLC last year even though I was only at ~25K miles. It was about 5.5yrs from the truck's build date so I figured better be safe than sorry. The LC500's 2UR will be getting the same treatment in late 2030 based on its build date lol. Both of these vehicles will have the valley plate leak eventually, but I'm not worried about. Its a repair I can easily do myself and likely won't be an issue for some time anyways.

I'm on my 3rd OCI with Mobil1 FS 0W40 in the Tundra, I was running the TGMO 0W20 until I depleted my stash. I knew the 0W40 would be fine in the 2UR, but it never hurts to get a gut check.

You're right on track. Those vehicles will last you a very long time with the care you're giving them. I think you will avoid head gasket issues if you keep up with your plan. If you can do the work yourself then all the better. Coolant is no biggie when doing it yourself (as you know), and it will save you a head gasket. I like your plan. Carry on!

 

[nthach]

Head gaskets are becoming an issue. Is it acidity or just bad design, who knows. Could be both.
Valve cover will leak, and it will leak internally.
Going Euro oils might prolong chain tensioner life. If you hear rattling on drivers side of an engine, don’t look any further.

Valley plates are a sore point on UR engines. Toyota also used the same “wet” V design on them as they with the MZ-series V6s.

 

[tired]

Valley plates are a sore point on UR engines. Toyota also used the same “wet” V design on them as they with the MZ-series V6s.

Not as big of a fix as a head gasket though at least.