VR1 10w30 vs Mobil 0w40 for flat tappets in a y-block

[burbguy82]

Would you say M1 has less wear protection or just that it's unknown?

I would say that would depend more on your engine than the oil. I have it on high regard from a respected source here, (who will remain unnamed) that another premier oil maker, has stated that M1 0w40 is some really impressive stuff.

I am sure you will hear many sides to this story. But either would be a good choice.

Either way, I am sure you will be well protected. I would no add any zinc booster to either one.

IMO, from my limited means of research and understanding of motor oils, a difference of 400 PPM of anti wear additives such as phosphorus, would be enough to indicate, on paper, the "wear protection package" would be "higher". Which is to say if oil A has 900 ppm, and oil B has 800 ppm, theere really wont be a difference.

VR1 has at least 400 ppm more than M1. But their is much more to the story than just ZDDP, these days.

If you are into doing oil analysis, do three changes with each, maybe at 3000 mile intervals and post them here, I am sure many would love to see it, I would at least.

Thats really all I got.

 

[cpm-m4]

Are you going to be daily driving the truck and sub zero temperatures? If not then use it with no fear. I'm running 15W-40 in both my old trucks instead of 5W-30 and 5W-40 in my 2021 which is still under warranties instead of 0w-20

I will not be. More like sub 32F 4 times a year.

 

[cpm-m4]

I would say that would depend more on your engine than the oil. I have it on high regard from a respected source here, (who will remain unnamed) that another premier oil maker, has stated that M1 0w40 is some really impressive stuff.

I am sure you will hear many sides to this story. But either would be a good choice.

Either way, I am sure you will be well protected. I would no add any zinc booster to either one.

IMO, from my limited means of research and understanding of motor oils, a difference of 400 PPM of anti wear additives such as phosphorus, would be enough to indicate, on paper, the "wear protection package" would be "higher". Which is to say if oil A has 900 ppm, and oil B has 800 ppm, theere really wont be a difference.

VR1 has at least 400 ppm more than M1. But their is much more to the story than just ZDDP, these days.

If you are into doing oil analysis, do three changes with each, maybe at 3000 mile intervals and post them here, I am sure many would love to see it, I would at least.

Thats really all I got.

I do plan on doing oil analysis. I was considering doing oil analysis on the current oil as well. But not knowing the type or the age it probably wouldn't be that useful. Trying oil analysis on both M1 and VR1 sounds like a good idea.

If that guy never handed me that bottle of additive I would probably be using using the cheapest synthetic I could find like I do on most of my other vehicles. Instead I fell down this rabbit hole.

I am also going to do oil analysis on our new lexus es350. I'm still skeptical of a 10k mile oil change from the get go. I'm new to this extended interval thing.

 

[JavierH19]

I will not be. More like sub 32F 4 times a year.

My trucks cranked fine a bit below that.

 

[GMBoy]

Please post a video of that Y-block idling. I love that distinct idle.

Yea they have a great sound. I ran it before I got the 31" glasspacks installed and it sounded great. It's pretty quiet with the glasspacks now. I'm still running the oil that came in the engine. I'll probably replace it today.

Here you go, pulled the cover off and fired her up just for you guys - can't upload a video as says not of supported format. If somebody can tell me how I will post it. I even trimmed it to a few seconds as it was too large at first.

Update - I uploaded it to Youtube:

 

[350Rocket]

Hi. I got this 312 ford y block motor a few years ago, I can't remember much of what the guy said to me beside it was recently rebuilt, mostly stock and ran in his truck for awhile before he replaced it with a coyote motor. I finally got around to getting my truck on the road after 30+ years of sitting. The guy I bought the engine from also gave me a bottle of zinc additive. But I've read that might not always be the best choice since you are pretty much messing with the manufacturers formulation.

I am trying to find a cost affective oil choice for it I can find locally. I've read Valvoline VR1 10w30 would be a good choice because of the amount of zinc. I can find it locally for about $26. I've also read Mobil 0w40 would be a good choice. And it's only about $25 locally. I thought about using rotella but a few people said there's other additives that aren't really meant for gas engines. Seems like the 0w40 might be a better choice since it's synthetic. I know you can get VR1 in synthetic, but it's not easily available or cheap. But after researching hours on oil I still feel I'm quite over my head. I do not plan on extended oil changes. Maybe every 3k-5k miles.

I've already decided on fram tough guard oil filters. I'm open to other oil suggestions. I just don't want to have to special order it or spend too much.

View attachment 238595

Cheaper price for full synthetic 0w40 m1 is my pick and I've been running that exclusively for a few years in my 76 350 Oldsmobile. If it's a stock or mild camshaft that oil should be plenty of zddp.

 

[cpm-m4]

Here you go, pulled the cover off and fired her up just for you guys - can't upload a video as says not of supported format. If somebody can tell me how I will post it. I even trimmed it to a few seconds as it was too large at first.

Update - I uploaded it to Youtube:

I bet that thing rips. I'm hoping my glasspacks break in and put out a bit more volume.

 

[GMBoy]

I bet that thing rips. I'm hoping my glasspacks break in and put out a bit more volume.

It's a quick little car but not really fast - sounds much meaner than it is. It's running behind a 3 speed manual trans and the original 32 Ford axle so that is the weak links. I don't hammer on it hard just putt around and occasionally run out 2nd to 3rd to hear he motor sing.

 

[DuckRyder]

Assuming its a stock cam with stock valves spring pressures and broken in i would say it makes no real difference.

 

[chris719]

LSJ had mentioned some new SP oils were doing well in flat tappet engines, I’d hesitate to blindly say the M1 will be fine without evidence in your exact application though.

 

[D11Dozer]

The Valvoline VR1 is about as good as it gets for your application. Cheapest I've found it is at Rural King farm stores.

 

[Randy_R]

VR1 10W-30. Glad to see ZDDP oil easily available and priced right.

 

[OVERKILL]

I'd run M1 FS 0W-40 or Delvac 1 5W-40 in it (the latter I run in our GT40 Windsor). We've owned several Y-blocks including one that was well warmed-over making around 425HP that was in a 1931 Chris-Craft. I just ran M1 5W-30 in it, but that was back in the SJ/SL days, would run one of the two oils I've mentioned in it now.

 

[FCD]

The new Mobil 1 Classic Car 10W-30 would be a match made in heaven for that thing!

 

[FCD]

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/mobil-1-classic-10w30-high-zinc-formula.389715/

 

[cpm-m4]

I'd run M1 FS 0W-40 or Delvac 1 5W-40 in it (the latter I run in our GT40 Windsor). We've owned several Y-blocks including one that was well warmed-over making around 425HP that was in a 1931 Chris-Craft. I just ran M1 5W-30 in it, but that was back in the SJ/SL days, would run one of the two oils I've mentioned in it now.

I've been running the m1 0w40. Plan is to get an oil analysis on the m1 after 3k miles and then vr1 at 3k miles so see if anything comes up. I guess I'll be adding m1 classic to the list too if i can find it anywhere at a decent price.

The new Mobil 1 Classic Car 10W-30 would be a match made in heaven for that thing!

That's interesting. Hopefully the price comes down. It's over double the price I'm used to. 5 quarts would cost me $60. I can get vr1 for $25/5 quarts, and mobil 0w40 $26/5 quarts at walmart.

I'm happy to report the truck is running great after doing many lumber runs and cruising around over the past few months. Man long beds are nice. Only issue is some oil leaks to address, which is hampering my planned oil testing. I'm using the fram tough guard oil filter, from my research here it seems to have the best filtering efficiency. No reason to go with the ultra since I won't be doing extended oil changes. Along with a larger paper air filter I fitted to an edelbrock filter assembly.

 

[Alex_V]

The "diesel additives bad for gas engines" sayers are ignorant of the science. Rotella 15/40 or 10/30 if oil pressure is strong and you wanna look for it a little harder.

 

[OVERKILL]

The "diesel additives bad for gas engines" sayers are ignorant of the science. Rotella 15/40 or 10/30 if oil pressure is strong and you wanna look for it a little harder.

You may find this thread informative:

Post in thread 'LSjr Tests VOA of 20 yr old Valvoline & 40 yr old Mobil 1 Oil. HPL tests Anti-Foam in Gear Oil.'

Mar 3, 2024

Btw...

• RDY4WAR

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