Volvo 850 Turbo oil recomendation

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Vehicle in question is a friends 94 vintage with 100k miles currently running 10/30 dino in Florida. Desired switch to synthetic. I was wondering about Amsoil's reformulated 10W30 HDMO (ACD) with the thoughts of this should be a good high temp, shear stable oil with some cleaning ability.

Am I nuts
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Any other recomendations?
 
I agree with DR and think this oil would be a good fit, interestingly. I may try it in my 850!

I do recommend he do an AutoRx treatment if he's just been running dino. This engine is a good sound engine, but not the cleanest.
 
Thanks,

I was also considering an Rx cycle. So, would it be alright to run Rx with the ACD for the clean phase and then ?please help me here? for the rinse phase?
 
Yes, run dino for both ARX phases. You may want to consider two treatments at that mileage.

A turbo white block in Florida . . . I'd also consider a 40 weight. M1 T&SUV/Delvac 1 would be my choice once the ARX was done.

Don't forget about the tranny if its an automatic. If it is, I'd run an ARX treatment on that at the same time, and then flush/refill with M1 ATF. Volvos like fresh ATF.
 
quote:

Originally posted by coasterguy:
Thanks Volvohead. Any other tips for a Volvo novice? Any favorite sparkplugs?

In general the factory recommended plugs usually work the best. Sometimes aftermarket plugs are a "compromise" due to the fact they are spec'd for multiple vehicles and manufactures. With engines being so carefully tuned to produce the most hp and lowest emissions at the same time the plugs have to be absolutely correct so as not to run too hot or cold and also provide the best spark.

Whimsey
 
Go with NGK plugs. The white blocks are a bit particular about plugs. Bosch is OEM, but not my favorite.

For oil I run the Amsoil 5W-40 in mine - but the ACD still seems interesting. You may want to also consider a 15W-40 HDEO dino for the cleaning phases.
 
>>>I was wondering about Amsoil's reformulated 10W30 HDMO (ACD) with the thoughts of this should be a good high temp, shear stable oil with some cleaning ability.

It will work fine, as will AMSOIL 10W-30 (ATM), 5W-30 ASL or HDD) or 0W-30 (TSO). Only not so handy thing about the ACD is that it comes in gallons only
 
I don't understand why some Amsoil products are only available in gallons (ACD) or quarts (Euro)?

By the way, does anyone know the HTHS of the reformulated ACD 10W30?
 
I have a 960 with essentially the same engine + 1 cylinder - 1 turbo. My engine doesn't like 10w30 of any kind especially in warm weather. I've been running Mobil 1 5w40 for 2 years. Engine is extremely clean with really great fuel economy. At 115k miles it burns about 1/2 quart over the 7500 miles OCI.

I prefer regular copper NGK spark plugs for this engine. They are cheap so I can change them as often as I like. The engine also idles much smoother with the NGKs than Volvo plugs or Bosch. Stay far far away from Bosch platinum. I haven't talked to a single Volvo owner that liked these plugs.

Also check out http://www.brickboard.com You will find a wealth of information there from other Volvo owners.
 
On a Volvo, if it's NA, the three-prong OEMs are still the best.

On a turbo, I do like NGKs (I like NGK in most cars, though). Some Bosch platinums can be real troublesome in the turbos.

But as has been said, for whatever reason, it's hard to better what the factory puts in them as far as plugs go. Unless you have a real reason, stick with OEM in a Volvo.

The same goes for oil filters - you can't better a Mann.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Volvohead:
On a turbo, I do like NGKs (I like NGK in most cars, though). Some Bosch platinums can be real troublesome in the turbos.

That design of the platinum wire buried flush in the insulator can be troublesome. Is there even any such thing as a heat range with Bosch platinums? My mechanic gave up on them after several simply melted away with the consequence of massive misfiring. Also - I can't figure out how that thin center wire is supposed to transfer enough heat away. Most platinum tips are affixed to a larger nickel alloy tip that can transfer heat to the copper core.
 
I have an S70 T5 that (same engine as you friends). My engine has seen mostly Amsoil 10W-30 ATM for it's life. Even with this pampering I was surprised at how much poop got cleaned out of it with a double Auto RX application. So, I'd definitely do an ARX cleaning. I've experimented with M1, Castrol 0W-30, and Schaeffer's 7000, and none performed as well as the Amsoil ATM (as per used oil analyses).

Also, I really like plain ol' Bosch Copper FR7DC (Bosch Super) plugs over the factory platinum. The plain jane NGKs are great too, though I've noticed no difference between them or the Bosch Supers, and the Bosch's are only around a buck at Autozone. They will normally last 20,000 miles in the turbo application. Your friends ready for a cap and rotor too. Have him check out this site for great Volvo parts at steep discounts.

http://www.fcpgroton.com

Hev
 
I've had good results with both Bosch and Denso plugs in my 850 turbo. Regular copper plugs seem to work better in these engines than expensive plugs.

Especially in Florida weather, I'd use a 40 wt, either 15W-40 or 5W-40. If he drives hard, use the synthetic 5W-40 for sure. 5000 miles is a good oil drain interval, and MANN oil filters are excellent and about $4.

These transmissions need regular fluid changes. Any Dexron-III ATF is fine, and synthetic gives longer fluid life.

I'd use Auto-Rx to clean the engine (double treatment), transmission, and power steering.

Be sure he flushes and renews the brake fluid every two years in Florida humidity, and that he uses a DOT4+ brake fluid. It doesn't cost much from a Volvo dealership, or ATE fluid works very well. The timing belt is due at 70,000 or 5-years, I think--check this.

Volvospeed.com has excellent info.


Ken
 
I think some '94s use the earlier, narrow belt design, with a 50k change interval. The change to the wider, 70k belt came during that model year.

Whatever you do, double check if it's a '94 and change the T-belt on schedule -- the Volvo's is an interference design.
 
I have a 96 850 Turbo wagon. I make regular trips between San Diego and Phoenix, 400 miles of hot 80+ driving, sometimes both ways (800 miles) in one day at temps sometimes exceeding 100F. I have been using Red Line 5w-40, and for one change, tried Mobil 1 0w-40. The combination of oil temp increase and oil pressure drop blocked the use of the A/C, twice with Mobil 1. I switched back to the RL 5w-40 and it never happened again. That was two miserable trips in a black car. Once the A/C was blocked, no amount of slowing down and taking it easy got it going again. A Volvo dealership mechanic said it's a switch in the engine controls that protects the engine from people like me.
 
Thanks for all of the tips. I looked at the car over the weekend. It's actually my friends wifes car and she had managed to rack up ~12k miles on some off brand dino 10/30 and it was scary when I pulled the dipstick. This one needs some help...
 
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