Vibration while accelerating during turn

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Jun 8, 2017
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225
Location
FL
I got new CV axles put on my 2018 Toyota RAV4 about 6 months ago after a very highly rated indie shop in my area noted that one of the boots was cracked, slinging grease, and I also heard a clicking sound while turning.

They used GSP axles.

The first set was a dud. Heavy vibration accelerating from 65 to 85 in a straight line. So pretty much made the car unusable on highways here where everyone wants to go 95 MPH and cops don't care until you're breaking triple digits.

They replaced an axle under warranty for free. Unsure about which side. After replacement seems to be better. HOWEVER, I'm getting a lot of vibration when turning the wheel slightly and accelerating. There's no straight-line vibration during acceleration, for the most part, any more. For example, making a u-turn on a road with speed limit 55 or 65. I have to make the u-turn and start accelerating pretty soon into the turn because drivers here drive fast and are impatient. Heavy vibration when accelerating with the steering wheel off-center!

Other than that the axles seem to be fine. No clicking, and from a perfunctory look, no cracked boots.

I know that aftermarket axles are dogshit.

I know that aftermarket axles often lack the vibration dampers that OEM axles sometimes have.

I just want to know if I'm being too nitpicky here, though. The vibration when accelerating with the steering wheel held at an angle is a little annoying. But I also don't want to be THAT customer. They already replaced the axles once under warranty and I'm guessing they ate the labor on that.

I don't want to bring the car back and cause them trouble if this is just a normal thing for aftermarket axles. They're a highly-rated shop and 100% of my interactions and previous service history with them have been positive. Now, if it's not normal, then I will consider bringing it back!

ALSO: would it be a good idea to jack up the front of the car and wiggle the CV axles myself to check for any unwanted free play? How much free play is normal, and where should the free play be at--transmission side or wheel side?
 
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Other issues could be, tire/wheel out of balance, worn shock or strut, missline coil springs, weak or failing control arm bushing, weak or failing ball joints or barrings, incorrectly mounted wheel to hub assembly. Is the wheel hub or lug centric? If lug centric, you could have a misslined lug or incorrect lug tightening procedure.
 
Agree that is the classic symptom of bad CV joint/axle.

I wonder, how does a car only 5 years old need new CV joints? IME they usually last at least 100k miles or 10 years.
 
Agree that is the classic symptom of bad CV joint/axle.

I wonder, how does a car only 5 years old need new CV joints? IME they usually last at least 100k miles or 10 years.
Unfortunately, I have to drive a lot. The axles were replaced at 130k miles. So I guess the stock axles performed as expected for Toyota and lasted over 100k miles.
 
^ That is insane, each axle is about $110, plus call it an hour labor (not really) per side, $550 total seems about right.

Definitely have them keep putting new axles on to earn that extra $1900 markup... except at some point, if you can't get the warranty fulfilled through a different shop and they start charging labor, would be cheaper to just buy new axles and have a shop with more reasonable labor markup do them.

Agree that is the classic symptom of bad CV joint/axle.

I wonder, how does a car only 5 years old need new CV joints? IME they usually last at least 100k miles or 10 years.

Maybe this:

For example, making a u-turn on a road with speed limit 55 or 65. I have to make the u-turn and start accelerating pretty soon into the turn because drivers here drive fast and are impatient.
 
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Hmm, they got to be clicking? I guess they were done for. Drive too many miles to have caught it in time (between splitting and then losing enough grease to have damage done).

I do know when mine split, I do plan to reboot. Won't be fun but non-OEM axles seem like such a crapshoot.
 
Hmm, they got to be clicking? I guess they were done for. Drive too many miles to have caught it in time (between splitting and then losing enough grease to have damage done).

I do know when mine split, I do plan to reboot. Won't be fun but non-OEM axles seem like such a crapshoot.

The aftermarket ones aren't clicking but are definitely causing unwanted vibrations.

Yes, please don't go aftermarket. I'm sick of these aftermarket axles.

I was just driving home today from work and noticed a new vibration going from 20 to 30 under moderate to brisk acceleration. In a straight line. No turns, literally just a straight line.

I'm going to ask them to just put OEM ones on in place of these faulty aftermarket ones and I'd even offer to pay for the parts (and they can cover the labor themselves).
 
Had an issue with vibration wheel turning left at just the right (wrong) amount of steering input. Too much or too little, smooth as silk. Just that spot? Felt like rumble strips.

Turned out to be a shot right front wheel bearing.
 
I've experienced similar strangeness with aftermarket axles on my 84 Rabbit.
According to the book they should fit.
But when you install them, they either don't fit exactly right or there's internal differences that don't mate with the transmission correctly.
Either way, it's a crapshoot.

To prevent split boots on the cv's and steering rack on my vehicles, I simply spray them down with silicone once a year.
Still on the original CV and steering rack boots on my 88 BMW.
 
The inner joint angle doesn't change when turning.

Also too with your RAV being a 2018 it was worthy of using OEM axles.

Scott
Unless the carrier bushing is sloppy worn causing the CV joint to wobble. Seen it before on GM FWD cars.
 
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