Vehicle warranty and changing your own oil

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My truck is just under 2000 miles, but due for an oil change soon. Rather than pay a dealer locally $45-50 for an oil change using synthetic and a nice UPF48R filter, I would rather change oil myself at a fraction of the cost. However, at least two dealers here locally have said that when you get the oil changed by the dealer during the warranty period, it is logged into the dealer/manufacturer database, and there is no question if a warranty claim arises, esp. with respect to bearings, crankshaft, etc. They say that if someone changes oil themself, the warranty can be challenged.

Is this true, and can it be enforced, legally?
 
The manufacturer "could" make things difficult for you if you change your own oil. If you do it right, and keep good records yourself, they don't have a leg to stand on.
 
They can challenge the warranty if they want. However if you change the oil yourself, use mfg approved oil, and a good filter. Then have proof of purchase, log miles and date, and are within the limits set in the OM you shouldn't have any problems. Document everything!

I've never brought any of my vehicles to a dealer for anything other than warranty work. I haven't had an oil related warranty issue either, but I don't see it being a problem for me. They can't force you to bring a car in for oil changes unless they're willing to do them for free.
 
The dealer might keep it in their data base but the mfg can't keep up with what they are doing, much less what you are doing. Change it yourself and keep records (keep a log book and the receipts when you bought the oil and filters). That's all you have to do.
 
Not true.

I've had MFG pay for repairs OUT of WARRANTY and have never taken a new car I've bought back to the Stealership.

Just keep records, MAKE SURE YOU FOLLOW THE MANUAL TO THE LETTER (type/weight and OCI) and receipts.

You'll be fine.

Now, the MFG could care less what type brand as long as it is the one in the manual. The biggest thing that will cause you hassle is going over the OCI. 2nd is wrong oil being used.

They WILL check your receipts for type and weight. They WILL check your log for OCI. (both time and mileage). They WILL check to make sure you used the correct filter.

Enjoy the new truck!

Bill
 
Priced a lawsuit lately? Take the car in to the dealer for all service during the warranty period including oil changes. Take your own oil and filter if you want 2 save a coupla bucks.FZ1 is good;FZ1 is wise.
 
10-4 - Thanks for all the input.

So, I plan to use the UPF48R in place of the PF48, as a filter. Would anyone have an issue there?

For oil, it sounds like I better go with M1 5W30 (instead of what I want to use: Castrol Syntec 0W30). I'm betting the Castrol Syntec 0W30 is not on their list.

As for OCI, will always either use the trucks computer log, OR my own 7500 mile interval, whichever is less.
 
Originally Posted By: alchemist
10-4 - Thanks for all the input.

So, I plan to use the UPF48R in place of the PF48, as a filter. Would anyone have an issue there?

For oil, it sounds like I better go with M1 5W30 (instead of what I want to use: Castrol Syntec 0W30). I'm betting the Castrol Syntec 0W30 is not on their list.

As for OCI, will always either use the trucks computer log, OR my own 7500 mile interval, whichever is less.
Sounds like a GM truck.

Just use the filter that they require. As far as the oil, Any SM conventional oil for the OLM or 1 year will be fine.

The OLM is excellent system. If you are a little concerned, when it gets to 10% change the oil.

There are millions of trucks doing just that with no problems.

No need for the expensive oil. My Chevy truck had its best UOA with Chevron 5w-30 oil. That is over Mobil 1, Pennzoil and Halvoline.

Take care, bill

PS: Just change your own oil. No need at ALL to have a dealership screw with your truck. (ie stripped drain plugs, double gaskets on oil filters, etc)
 
Get a nice little binder and keep your records in it. Record all maintenance with dates and miles and keep all reciepts in the binder. Keep the binder in the truck and it is easy to keep everything up to date. WHen I buy filters I simply cut out the UPC codes and keep those, I try to keep those and oil reciepts in order. Never had to use them. But it is nice to go back and see your own maintenance history anyway even if you don't need to use the records as proof of due dilligence in the maintenance of the vehicle.
 
Don't use a three ring binder where the pages can be changed. Go to Borders and get a "diary"that is bound with the pages put in like a hard bound book. That way they know you did not change pages. This is a big deal in court rooms. Tape every receipt in the book and keep a log...date, service performed and items used. Attach the receipts for that service nearby.

This is also a big help in selling a used vehicle privately.
 
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah

PS: Just change your own oil. No need at ALL to have a dealership screw with your truck. (ie stripped drain plugs, double gaskets on oil filters, etc)


Nice advice. I hate paying someone triple the labor rate I get and have the job done half-A$$.
Yes, it is a GM truck. GM makes (actually, Champ makes them) an Ultraguard series that have the synthetic filter media, for several of their popular sizes: PF44, PF52 and the PF48. They are called UPF44, UPF52, and UPF48R.
When you say use the filter that they recommend, wouldn't you consider the UPF48R and direct fit in for the PF48 (it should be much better)?
 
When I bought my Santa Fe from the Hyundai dealer I asked about this and they said as long as I kept receipts for the oil purchases with the mileage marked on the receipt I would be fine. I asked if I could stock up on oil if there was a sale etc. and was told that was fine too. The only thing they suggested was to use an OEM oil filter because my particular engine was fussy about flow, other than that he said it didn't matter. Being paranoid, I had him write it on the sale agreement that I chose to do my own oil changes within the manual OCI and that the dealer was ok with it. I never looked back!
wink.gif
 
i think it's all [censored]. if ur using an extended interval oil and u even have UOAs that can prove your drain intervals are at a healthy level, i think the manufacture will **** and fix what needs fixing. i know my dad's passat had serious engine issues and not once did they ask for any sort of service records anyway. i would love to hear some specific examples of this type of thing happening to someone bc at this point, and i've said it before, it all seems like a bunch of internet forum hear-say.
 
My Hyundai, I change the oil, do my own filters, I'll do my own coolant when it's due. I just got my 2008's 15K inspection done at Tires Plus. I keep plenty of receipts, log them in the owner's manual, and drive the car. Scroo the dealer. Who needs em, except for when the car breaks under warranty.

They got what they deserved. You know they just called me for a 6K inspection. In the factory guide, the first stop isn't until 15K. When I called them, she said it was an oil, filter, air filter and fluid top-off. Price? 179.99. She said it was for the warranty. I ironed that out with the service manager, who said only that she misspoke.

The dealers are crooks, they suck, and they aren't getting a dime of my money ever again. It makes me sick just to get on the phone to talk to them.
 
Originally Posted By: toocrazy2yoo
My Hyundai, I change the oil, do my own filters, I'll do my own coolant when it's due. I just got my 2008's 15K inspection done at Tires Plus. I keep plenty of receipts, log them in the owner's manual, and drive the car. Scroo the dealer. Who needs em, except for when the car breaks under warranty.

They got what they deserved. You know they just called me for a 6K inspection. In the factory guide, the first stop isn't until 15K. When I called them, she said it was an oil, filter, air filter and fluid top-off. Price? 179.99. She said it was for the warranty. I ironed that out with the service manager, who said only that she misspoke.

The dealers are crooks, they suck, and they aren't getting a dime of my money ever again. It makes me sick just to get on the phone to talk to them.


They gotta make revenue somehow...
LOL.gif


What's a 15K inspection? Is this mandatory by your local state?
 
Originally Posted By: toocrazy2yoo
You know they just called me for a 6K inspection. In the factory guide, the first stop isn't until 15K.


There's no telling how many people will rush in when they get the phone call or the card in the mail.

My elderly parents took in their car for a scheduled checkup, and my mother, always a do-gooder, made sure they also did the previous service too which they had been too busy to take the car in for. I was afraid to ask whether or not they had to pay for two oil changes...
 
I'm not answering your specific question here but I did have a warranty issue due to changing my own fluids. Lucky for me it was a VERY minor issue. I dropped my transmission pan to change the filter and fluid on my '01 Grand Prix at 30k miles and I was still within warranty. I found that when I reinstalled the pan bolts that one bolt hole was completely stripped. I started them by hand and ran them down using a tiny 1/4" socket and then finished them off with a torque wrench so I know I did not strip it. It must have been stripped at the factory. The dealer didn't want to do anything about it since I had touched the bolts there was no reason to believe I didn't cause the problem myself. He said I took that chance when I decided to do my own maintance. Perhaps it was just a bad dealer since due to many other issues I have never gone back. The last time I was there they said they fixed the pan bolt (after much discussion with them) and they also fixed my front brakes which they claimed to have done the next to the last visit but didn't really do. When I changed my fluid at 60k I noticed the pan bolt was still stripped, they never did fix it, they just said they did. I recently noticed the bolt had fallen out. 102k miles and no leaks so I guess it doesn't matter.
 
Actually the filter question should be in the Oil Filter section of this forum.

Yea, if the UPFxx's are available and you don't mind the cost, use them. It's premium 10um class kept alive by Corvette demand.

GM seems to like smaller filters, as on my 1997 Tahoe (5.7L size of small soup can). Based on the WIX site, the PF48 looks small also with 3" dia.& 3.4"ht. I've cut mine open and it's 'not' a 6K mile filter in my app. Yours would run cleaner and the filter media likely has more holding capacity so 6-7.5K miles seems reasonable. Cut one open some time and see what you think.

Every few years rumors abound about UPFxx's discontinuance but they seem to keep coming back.
 
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Check the chevy owners section on the website. The Ford site has a pretty good maintenance history section where you can log in all your maintenance in case an issue arises. I've been doing this with our Montego since we got it last year along with keeping reciepts.
 
Originally Posted By: alchemist
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah

PS: Just change your own oil. No need at ALL to have a dealership screw with your truck. (ie stripped drain plugs, double gaskets on oil filters, etc)


Nice advice. I hate paying someone triple the labor rate I get and have the job done half-A$$.
Yes, it is a GM truck. GM makes (actually, Champ makes them) an Ultraguard series that have the synthetic filter media, for several of their popular sizes: PF44, PF52 and the PF48. They are called UPF44, UPF52, and UPF48R.
When you say use the filter that they recommend, wouldn't you consider the UPF48R and direct fit in for the PF48 (it should be much better)?
I'd just use the PF48 and get on with it. How much "better" is the UPF48? Not enough for the price increase.

You'll get plenty of protection with the PF48 and you can buy them by the dozen from dealerships that sell online for less than $4 a filter delivered. That is what I do for the PF58s that I need for the Chevy trucks that I work on.

Take care, bill
 
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