They do make it in 10W-40 but only available in Australia.
Valvoline Restore & Protect
- Thread starter Scott S
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I did not know, thanks..i hope it comes over here soon
Friend, I'll reply to this year old question even though not everybody will like my opinion on this: But I think it makes not the slightest difference which oil you use in an engine fitted with a "wet belt". The oil could be Penzoil Ultra for $20 a quart or it could be Walmart oil for $5. With 2 miles on the oil or 10,000. The effect on a wet belt is going to be for all intents and purposes, the exact same: the wet belt is going to degrade, stretch, lose teeth, and break regardless of any of that. It's what rubber, neoprene, and rubber derivatives do when soaked in petroleum products: the chemistry breaks down and the belt inevitably fails. The sole question is will the wet belt fail within one year or five years? And what will happen inside the engine when it does?
I remember a long time ago there was a paperback novel called "The gang that couldn't shoot straight." And the cover art showed a stylized revolver, with its barrel bent into a U-shape, such that the pistol would supposedly direct the bullets at whoever was holding it. Well, that pretty well describes the whole concept of "wet belts". If you bought a wet belt engine, you have my sympathies...perhaps somebody will come up with a metal timing chain replacement to fit from the aftermarket, this has been done for other wet-belt engines already.
A cursory look at forums and other sources of data indicate '18-'20 Theta II engines are beginning to consume excessive amounts of oil too. 2021 was the first year for the Smartstream engine.
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- Jun 3, 2021
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Same here.
Just for the record
I had 2012 Sonata (Theta II) bought new and traded in at 133K mi in 2024. No significant issues with oil consumption or rod bearing failure.
Used Synthetic ( Pennzoil Ultra) and premium filters the entire time.
Having said that , I m hoping Valvoline R&P with Fram Endurance filter will keep our 2019 Sonata {Theta II) with 35K mi “safe” going forward.
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Any links?
Thanks
Ok
I just found this:
“I have a 2018 Hyundai Sonata. I started to burn oil around 95,000 miles. I had 3 oil consumption tests. First one said I was not excessively burning oil. Kept an eye on it and the problem proceeded to get worse. Took it for another test abd it failed. Burning 1 qt every 600 miles. They had an engineer look at it then decided to "clean" my engine. I failed the oil consumption test again. I had 104,000 miles on it when they called to say they would teplace the engine.”
Found more:
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- Jul 15, 2023
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People deal with Hyundai like that sister-in-law who always picks abusive boyfriends.
“He’s changed.”
“This one is different.”
“He’s changed.”
“This one is different.”
It only took about 2 weeks from the time the Kia dealership told me the oil consumption test I had done came back normal to me being broken down on the side of the expressway, sitting in a pool of oil with a con rod poking out the side of the block...
Additional Sources of information I look at are at Car Complaints, NHTSA and Consumer Reports Websites. All of these have information indicating the later Theta II's are beginning to fail. And as you found, it's easy to find this information in various Hyundai (and Kia) forums.
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
I guess folks could say that about myself and GM - but they have served me well - still do. The amount of 6.2L stuff here was relentless - but I think with 100 million SBC’s so far - they got allot done in the meantime …
Early indications of VRP/EC 30 cleaning?
I recently acquired a 2005 Mazda Tribute with the 2.3 liter engine in great shape with 148k miles. I changed the oil immediately and noticed remnants of a large oil leak on the undercarriage. I cleaned off what I could so that I could try to determine where it was coming from.
I refilled the crankcase with 4 quarts of VRP 5W-30 and 0.5 quarts of HPL EC 30.
Over the next 900 miles, I had to top up with 2 quarts of VRP 5W-30.
I later suspected that the valve cover gasket was leaking. Upon removing the coils from the spark plug wells, my suspicions were confirmed. The coil boots were dripping with oil and the spark plug closest to the driver’s side was completely submerged in oil. I suctioned out over 50ml of oil from that well.
When I removed the valve cover there was some varnish. Towards the passenger side and in the area of the timing chain the deposits were much darker.
What was interesting is there were what appeared to be signs of cleaning in that area around the timing chain. There were some much cleaner spots appearing inside the darker areas. All of this was during 900 miles of driving over about 47 days. I replaced the gasket with a new one and oil loss has slowed way down.
I suspect most of the initial top off that was needed was due to the gasket leaking because I’ve only needed to top off with .25 quarts in the last 238 miles.
The varnish has all but disappeared from the dipstick too.
I recently acquired a 2005 Mazda Tribute with the 2.3 liter engine in great shape with 148k miles. I changed the oil immediately and noticed remnants of a large oil leak on the undercarriage. I cleaned off what I could so that I could try to determine where it was coming from.
I refilled the crankcase with 4 quarts of VRP 5W-30 and 0.5 quarts of HPL EC 30.
Over the next 900 miles, I had to top up with 2 quarts of VRP 5W-30.
I later suspected that the valve cover gasket was leaking. Upon removing the coils from the spark plug wells, my suspicions were confirmed. The coil boots were dripping with oil and the spark plug closest to the driver’s side was completely submerged in oil. I suctioned out over 50ml of oil from that well.
When I removed the valve cover there was some varnish. Towards the passenger side and in the area of the timing chain the deposits were much darker.
What was interesting is there were what appeared to be signs of cleaning in that area around the timing chain. There were some much cleaner spots appearing inside the darker areas. All of this was during 900 miles of driving over about 47 days. I replaced the gasket with a new one and oil loss has slowed way down.
I suspect most of the initial top off that was needed was due to the gasket leaking because I’ve only needed to top off with .25 quarts in the last 238 miles.
The varnish has all but disappeared from the dipstick too.
looks like you answered your own question, myself I would use Valvoline R&P 5w-30 over Mobil 1.
Well, depending on how one defines "better".
VRP will do a better job at cleaning the crankcase and piston deposits. As noted, many people have significantly reduced consumption using VRP.
1 qt per 5k isn't bad, but I'm of the opinion that, 1qt going through the CAT is not a good thing. The less oil going out the exhaust, the better for CAT life.
VRP will do a better job at cleaning the crankcase and piston deposits. As noted, many people have significantly reduced consumption using VRP.
1 qt per 5k isn't bad, but I'm of the opinion that, 1qt going through the CAT is not a good thing. The less oil going out the exhaust, the better for CAT life.
If it does a better job at cleaning, I think I would pick it, at least this time.
The only way to find out is to use VRP for a few OCI's. What are your OCI's like on this car?
I would want to buy an oil and put it in and have fewer top offs, is that oil Mobil 1 EP HM or is it VRP?
There’s no question it will clean better. The reports are countless now of it cleaning up engines and reducing or eliminating oil consumption. I have it in both of my cars now. Going to do at least 4 OCIs with it. I don’t even have any consumption. Just want to clean everything up.
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