... Daughters rust bucket 2007 Ford Fusion V6, 143k. This car will be interesting when I pull the filter. The problem with this one is that it had an oil leak somewhere on the engine. The leak has increased in volume quite a bit and will have to be fixed now. Probably cleaned some junk around a bad seal/gasket. I don't blame R&P for the leak since it's just doing what it's supposed to do.
Being no one is ever going to get a look at the pistons, it's nice to know that a reduction in oil consumption and even noise reduction can be had when using it. Otherwise, you'd never know if it was working lol.A 2013 Subaru Impreza I take care of FB20 engine using a few quarts per oil change. Owner reporting the level holding steady now at the end of VRP interval 3.
How many of you will stay using VR&P beyond the recommended 4 oil changes - or go back to your former oil afterwards ?
I have a '19 Tucson with the same engine. R&P 5W 30 is now my engines forever oil at the same service frequency as yours.How many of you will stay using VR&P beyond the recommended 4 oil changes - or go back to your former oil afterwards ? In my Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine it probably will be helpful to keep using VR&P for up to a 4K mile / 6 month OCI . Low tension rings , oil burning , dirty GDI soot , etc. make this a good candidate to stay with VR&P 5W30 . I like that VR&P has a HTHS of 3.2 - 3.3 for good MOFT , wear protection and smooth running (per poster comments) . If I didn’t stay with VR&P , I would use one of the M1 30 weight ESP Euro oils for the same OCI .
How many of you will stay using VR&P beyond the recommended 4 oil changes - or go back to your former oil afterwards ? In my Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine it probably will be helpful to keep using VR&P for up to a 4K mile / 6 month OCI . Low tension rings , oil burning , dirty GDI soot , etc. make this a good candidate to stay with VR&P 5W30 . I like that VR&P has a HTHS of 3.2 - 3.3 for good MOFT , wear protection and smooth running (per poster comments) . If I didn’t stay with VR&P , I would use one of the M1 30 weight ESP Euro oils for the same OCI .
Seeing Hyundai/Kia's are one of the hardest car manufactures on engine oils. I don't see why you would not just stay with VRP as your designated oil like "chrisgraham" if you don't have a EXTREME rough service situation, and you are a "normal" driver that doesn't thrash the crap out of the car. VRP is their top "Premium" oil. It is not like it has a bad wear package, I would "assume" it would have one of their more robust minus the Euro cert oils. I use it in my tuner turbo car for 5 oil changes in the late fall, winter, and early spring and it got a turbo trashing workout. It IS the cleanest running oil in my Hyundai, where any other oil including boutiques, would be almost black at 3,000 miles where I dump my oil at.I have a '19 Tucson with the same engine. R&P 5W 30 is now my engines forever oil at the same service frequency as yours.
I've no plans to switch my Prius away from VRP. It doesn't meet the specifications for the other engines in my fleet, otherwise I'd be tempted to swap every car over.How many of you will stay using VR&P beyond the recommended 4 oil changes - or go back to your former oil afterwards ? In my Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine it probably will be helpful to keep using VR&P for up to a 4K mile / 6 month OCI . Low tension rings , oil burning , dirty GDI soot , etc. make this a good candidate to stay with VR&P 5W30 . I like that VR&P has a HTHS of 3.2 - 3.3 for good MOFT , wear protection and smooth running (per poster comments) . If I didn’t stay with VR&P , I would use one of the M1 30 weight ESP Euro oils for the same OCI .
It doesn’t meet spec because of the cleaning additive. You can generally sleep easy if the regular Valvoline synthetic meets your spec as other than the cleaning additive it will meet the performance requirements of your cars spec.I've no plans to switch my Prius away from VRP. It doesn't meet the specifications for the other engines in my fleet, otherwise I'd be tempted to swap every car over.
What was the oil change history that led to this?I do not have a "before and after", I have "during" pictures on interval #2 of a heavily oil burning subaru. I will hopefully have an after picture in time. This is one of the cars I take care of. What strikes me is how the deposits are cleaned in blotches. There are small sections where heavy deposits are removed to complete clean in blotches. I would expect to see more of a gradual transition. This is through the wrist pin access hole on a subaru ej253. Cylinders 1 and 2. Cylinder 1 oil ring contacting wall however jam packed with crud. Cylinder 2 seized oil ring not contacting wall.
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Unknown. Current owners bought it from an elderly couple that pretty much only drove short trips within town though.What was the oil change history that led to this?
My wife has a '22 Outback XT. I just switched her car to 5W 30 R&P as well.SUBARUs' with D.I. are hard on oils as well along with other car manufacturers that use D.I..
I'm surprised that somebody or some competitor hasn't 'reverse engineered' VRP