Valvoline Restore & Protect

How many of you will stay using VR&P beyond the recommended 4 oil changes - or go back to your former oil afterwards ? In my Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine it probably will be helpful to keep using VR&P for up to a 4K mile / 6 month OCI . Low tension rings , oil burning , dirty GDI soot , etc. make this a good candidate to stay with VR&P 5W30 . I like that VR&P has a HTHS of 3.2 - 3.3 for good MOFT , wear protection and smooth running (per poster comments) . If I didn’t stay with VR&P , I would use one of the M1 30 weight ESP Euro oils for the same OCI .
 
I just started using V&P 5W30 in the 2001 F150 5.4L with 114K. Doesn’t burn oil. My father in law took pretty good care of it before he died. The last 8 years my mother in law not so much.
 
... Daughters rust bucket 2007 Ford Fusion V6, 143k. This car will be interesting when I pull the filter. The problem with this one is that it had an oil leak somewhere on the engine. The leak has increased in volume quite a bit and will have to be fixed now. Probably cleaned some junk around a bad seal/gasket. I don't blame R&P for the leak since it's just doing what it's supposed to do.

I had the same on a 2015 Audi S4 that I ran it in. No leaks beforehand, but afterward the base gasket for the HPFP mounting boss started leaking. I suspect there was sludge in there from what might have been a slow fuel-to-oil leak at the HPFP and the R&P cleaned the sludge out and exposed an oil leak from the fuel compromising the gasket. Going to swap the gasket and see if there's signs of the HPFP leaking.

Also I wish they'd make it in a 5W40 because I'd use it all the time. The car allows 5W30 but I prefer to run 5W40 in it.
 
A 2013 Subaru Impreza I take care of FB20 engine using a few quarts per oil change. Owner reporting the level holding steady now at the end of VRP interval 3.
Being no one is ever going to get a look at the pistons, it's nice to know that a reduction in oil consumption and even noise reduction can be had when using it. Otherwise, you'd never know if it was working lol.
 
How many of you will stay using VR&P beyond the recommended 4 oil changes - or go back to your former oil afterwards ? In my Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine it probably will be helpful to keep using VR&P for up to a 4K mile / 6 month OCI . Low tension rings , oil burning , dirty GDI soot , etc. make this a good candidate to stay with VR&P 5W30 . I like that VR&P has a HTHS of 3.2 - 3.3 for good MOFT , wear protection and smooth running (per poster comments) . If I didn’t stay with VR&P , I would use one of the M1 30 weight ESP Euro oils for the same OCI .
I have a '19 Tucson with the same engine. R&P 5W 30 is now my engines forever oil at the same service frequency as yours.
 
How many of you will stay using VR&P beyond the recommended 4 oil changes - or go back to your former oil afterwards ? In my Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine it probably will be helpful to keep using VR&P for up to a 4K mile / 6 month OCI . Low tension rings , oil burning , dirty GDI soot , etc. make this a good candidate to stay with VR&P 5W30 . I like that VR&P has a HTHS of 3.2 - 3.3 for good MOFT , wear protection and smooth running (per poster comments) . If I didn’t stay with VR&P , I would use one of the M1 30 weight ESP Euro oils for the same OCI .

I have a '19 Tucson with the same engine. R&P 5W 30 is now my engines forever oil at the same service frequency as yours.
Seeing Hyundai/Kia's are one of the hardest car manufactures on engine oils. I don't see why you would not just stay with VRP as your designated oil like "chrisgraham" if you don't have a EXTREME rough service situation, and you are a "normal" driver that doesn't thrash the crap out of the car. VRP is their top "Premium" oil. It is not like it has a bad wear package, I would "assume" it would have one of their more robust minus the Euro cert oils. I use it in my tuner turbo car for 5 oil changes in the late fall, winter, and early spring and it got a turbo trashing workout. It IS the cleanest running oil in my Hyundai, where any other oil including boutiques, would be almost black at 3,000 miles where I dump my oil at.

I won't run it in my car in the summer where then I use 5W-40 Euro Mid SAPS oil/HPL EC every other dump, as my car runs hot with forcing the tiny turbo to run on higher boost in the summer heat. I am hoping we get a VRP in 5W-40. I will be back on VRP 5W-30 in the winter again. Even after the Redline Performance Euro 5W-30 I used that actually freed my rings and stop my exceptionally bad fuel dilution, I feel the VRP run this winter made my car idle better then ever has. After 5 VRP oil changes and being overall a spotless inner motor/minus the ring lands, I assume the 5 changes is as good as gets. I just want to keep it that way.
 
Last edited:
How many of you will stay using VR&P beyond the recommended 4 oil changes - or go back to your former oil afterwards ? In my Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine it probably will be helpful to keep using VR&P for up to a 4K mile / 6 month OCI . Low tension rings , oil burning , dirty GDI soot , etc. make this a good candidate to stay with VR&P 5W30 . I like that VR&P has a HTHS of 3.2 - 3.3 for good MOFT , wear protection and smooth running (per poster comments) . If I didn’t stay with VR&P , I would use one of the M1 30 weight ESP Euro oils for the same OCI .
I've no plans to switch my Prius away from VRP. It doesn't meet the specifications for the other engines in my fleet, otherwise I'd be tempted to swap every car over.
 
I've no plans to switch my Prius away from VRP. It doesn't meet the specifications for the other engines in my fleet, otherwise I'd be tempted to swap every car over.
It doesn’t meet spec because of the cleaning additive. You can generally sleep easy if the regular Valvoline synthetic meets your spec as other than the cleaning additive it will meet the performance requirements of your cars spec.
 
I do not have a "before and after", I have "during" pictures on interval #2 of a heavily oil burning subaru. I will hopefully have an after picture in time. This is one of the cars I take care of. What strikes me is how the deposits are cleaned in blotches. There are small sections where heavy deposits are removed to complete clean in blotches. I would expect to see more of a gradual transition. This is through the wrist pin access hole on a subaru ej253. Cylinders 1 and 2. Cylinder 1 oil ring contacting wall however jam packed with crud. Cylinder 2 seized oil ring not contacting wall.

View attachment 282716

View attachment 282717
What was the oil change history that led to this?
 
I'm surprised that somebody or some competitor hasn't 'reverse engineered' VRP to find out what the magical cleaner is. My engines always look spotless (through the oil fill hole) using a variety of synthetics available at WM so I'm in no rush to use VRP but if I bought a used vehicle that needed cleaning I'd do the 4 OCIs of VRP without hesitation.
PS: I haven't read all of the copious amount of posts on VRP but someone suggested that VRP is not a 'long drain' oil? Is this the common belief? It really wouldn't matter much to me since 7500 miles would be the most I'd go on any oil but I'm curious.
 
I'm surprised that somebody or some competitor hasn't 'reverse engineered' VRP

The speculation is that maybe Exxon Mobil has or will.

 
Back
Top Bottom