Valvoline Restore & Protect

Faster on clearance than say Magnatec and it’s intellegent molecules ? Just kidding , I actually liked Magnatec and was sorry to see it go . If VR&P becomes available in a 5W30 with HTHS of 3.5 then I become very interested .
Unless you’re driving at full throttle everywhere you go, your engine won’t know the difference between the 3.2 HTHS that VRP 5w30 currently has and that 3.5 HTHS that you believe it needs.
 
Since most of their vehicles in the NA market have no hths spec requirement and dont spec 5w30
I thought you were replying to something else. 🤷‍♂️
In following member Chris for a few years now - due to similar S. Korean vehicle engines we share. We both are reaching for / racing to that perfect oil recipe. He seems to think it must have HTHS-galore and personally I don't share the same philosophy.

I sure haven't found the perfect jug yet, maybe cuz' I reached too high on the Amsoil / HPL Ester-PAO blend quality ladder in 2003 and 2004 and not crazy about the engine sound results. I'm closing in on a HPL majority Grp 3 that was recommended to me by a BITOG high ranking member. That member thinks the HPL PCEO oil will get me to stop looking any further for the perfect recipe and not cost me big money for my shortened OCIs I always undertake in.
 
In following member Chris for a few years now - due to similar S. Korean vehicle engines we share. We both are reaching for / racing to that perfect oil recipe. He seems to think it must have HTHS-galore and personally I don't share the same philosophy.

I sure haven't found the perfect jug yet, maybe cuz' I reached too high on the Amsoil / HPL Ester-PAO blend quality ladder in 2003 and 2004 and not crazy about the engine sound results. I'm closing in on a HPL majority Grp 3 that was recommended to me by a BITOG high ranking member. That member thinks the HPL PCEO oil will get me to stop looking any further for the perfect recipe and not cost me big money for my shortened OCIs I always undertake in.
For me , driving a Hyundai with a 2.4L GDI which has known challenges , I’m trying to use what I feel are the best thicker 30 weight oils I can routinely find for this engine at WM such as : M1 5W30 EP $29 , M1 0W30 ESP $27 and M1 0W40 FS $27 (which is essentially a high 30 weight oil after a few miles driven into an OCI) . VR&P locally is a WM on-line only (so far) purchase $29 - but even if if stays that way I may still try it .
 
My observations are subjective and based early after one oil change but my low mileage '19 Tucson (11k) with a 2.4 Theta II loves the stuff. Immediately after the oil change I noticed the engine was quieter (and that is with the engine cover off, in order to clean up a small oil spill) and was more responsive in the mid-range out on the highway. And on the first long drive and using a fresh tank of 89 octane I saw my average mileage climb to 30 miles per gallon during 70-85 mph freeway driving, when I rarely see mileage under similar conditions climb to 27.5 mpg. I do have several previous oil analysis results when using PUP in the same viscosity (5W 30) and will be getting another when I change oil again in 6 months, to see if there are any difference in test results worth noting. Until then I can say this oil is definitely worth using.
 
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Unless you’re driving at full throttle everywhere you go, your engine won’t know the difference between the 3.2 HTHS that VRP 5w30 currently has and that 3.5 HTHS that you believe it needs.
I hear what you are saying - the VR&P in 5W30 may very well work great in my challenged Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine . Smarter folks than me here on BITOG recommended to use the thickest off the shelf 0W30 / 5W30 you can find at WM for challenged Hyundai / Kia 2.4L GDI engines and currently that is M1 0W30 ESP .
 
I hear what you are saying - the VR&P in 5W30 may very well work great in my challenged Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine . Smarter folks than me here on BITOG recommended to use the thickest off the shelf 0W30 / 5W30 you can find at WM for challenged Hyundai / Kia 2.4L GDI engines and currently that is M1 0W30 ESP .
You can’t go wrong with M1 ESP either, I have been using ESP 5w30 in my Corvette since 2018, and I don’t see myself switching to anything else
 
You can’t go wrong with M1 ESP either, I have been using ESP 5w30 in my Corvette since 2018, and I don’t see myself switching to anything else
Seeing that you are big on 0w30 for your climate, how come the 5w flavor for the Corvette? Any approvals difference or an overall slightly higher HTHS?
 
Seeing that you are big on 0w30 for your climate, how come the 5w flavor for the Corvette? Any approvals difference or an overall slightly higher HTHS?
My Corvette doesn’t ever come out when the temperature is below -5C (mainly because of the summer tires), plus it’s in a slightly warmer underground garage so it really doesn’t need a 0w30. If it was parked outside and driven daily then the 0w30 would be in there for sure.

It does differ in its approvals from 0w30 (it adds BMW LL04) and it’s also API SP. The HTHS is the same for both, 3.5

It’s likely to hold its viscosity better than the 0w30, a few years ago I had a UOA done after a 7400 mile run and the viscosity was still right where it started.
 
I'll admit I haven't read all 96 pages of this thread, but has anybody else noticed significantly more oil consumption when using VRP?

My '07 Prius with 228K consumes all flavors of oil, but with Castrol Edge HM 5w-30, consumption has been consistent at about 1 qt. per 3500 miles for a while now after a couple piston soaks.

With VRP 5w-30, consumption is about 1 qt. per 2000-2200 miles.
So I’m not an expert on this stuff but it’s possible that the r&p is picking up some crud and carbon and depositing in the oil filter. You may be noticing a drop in level quicker because of that. Also while cleaning the rings it might initially take some time to fully release them if they’re sticking. Probably why they call for 4 oil changes to do the cleaning
 
I called NAPA in Ottawa and they said they can get it but only in 5 gallon jugs.

In the video below, at 7:30, he talks about those 5 gallon jugs.



It is the bay box size which @Brian123 is not designed to be poured like you imagine. It typically sits on a shelf, rack in a auto shop garage and you pour out the qty that you need into a measuring oil jug. Then you fill using that jug.

I'm in Ottawa too I get VRP via Rock Auto. Shipping via Fedex is around $40-50 USD on top of a 3x 5quart case cost which comes to a grand total of $200 CAD after exchange, import and duties so $66.66 CAD per jug. Yikes. Devils number. The only other option is to drive across the border (for me closest is Ogdensburg) and get it from Walmart for $29.97 USD ($42.67 Canadian Dollar) per jug tho it may only save you part of the shipping charges.

NAPA prices are nuts. I rarely go there. Everything I price out from there ends up costing more compared to other places.
 
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There are many things that impact the dynamics of engine deposits.
Are you the original owner? Do you actually know the PM history? Your driving habits compared to owner 1 and owner 2? Is it mild varnish that means little?
What are other owners seeing with this engine?
Are we just a bit obsessed here? (Well, we can answer one)
 
It does differ in its approvals from 0w30 (it adds BMW LL04) and it’s also API SP. The HTHS is the same for both, 3.5

It’s likely to hold its viscosity better than the 0w30, a few years ago I had a UOA done after a 7400 mile run and the viscosity was still right where it started.
Yep, more shear stable and being SP, it's more of a recipe-updated Standard for today's modern, gasoline vehicle engines.
(y)
I keep teetering on what to use next in my 2.4 GDI. Today I'm leaning into using VRP, which I have in stock inside my garage now. I'll save the HPL I have remaining for the daughter's Acadia with 80k mileage.
 
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Yep, more shear stable and being SP, it's more of a recipe-updated Standard for today's modern, gasoline vehicle engines.
(y)
I keep teetering on what to use next in my 2.4 GDI. Today I'm leaning into using VRP, which I have in stock inside my garage now. I'll save the HPL I have remaining for the daughter's Acadia with 80k mileage.
Does your daughter live with you? you might need to change the oil filter early on the acadia to verify its not plugging up with HPL loosening deposits from all over... if its never had HPL oil.
 
It is the bay box size which @Brian123 is not designed to be poured like you imagine. It typically sits on a shelf, rack in a auto shop garage and you pour out the qty that you need into a measuring oil jug. Then you fill using that jug.

I'm in Ottawa too I get VRP via Rock Auto. Shipping via Fedex is around $40-50 USD on top of a 3x 5quart case cost which comes to a grand total of $200 CAD after exchange, import and duties so $66.66 CAD per jug. Yikes. Devils number. The only other option is to drive across the border (for me closest is Ogdensburg) and get it from Walmart for $29.97 USD ($42.67 Canadian Dollar) per jug tho it may only save you part of the shipping charges.

NAPA prices are nuts. I rarely go there. Everything I price out from there ends up costing more compared to other places.
Amazon in Canada?
 
Not sure if yall remember, was trying to see how well this worked on my brother's 2009 nissan versa that was neglected. Changed to VRP last year. Seems like they're going to get him a Hinda fit so not sure what will happen to the Nissan. Got a chance to look at it today. Dipstick oil looked DARK. And found this under the oil fill cap. Is this just from moisture?
20250223_092021.webp
 
Not sure if yall remember, was trying to see how well this worked on my brother's 2009 nissan versa that was neglected. Changed to VRP last year. Seems like they're going to get him a Hinda fit so not sure what will happen to the Nissan. Got a chance to look at it today. Dipstick oil looked DARK. And found this under the oil fill cap. Is this just from moisture?View attachment 264981
That's usually caused by condensation. Normally more of white, milky color, but maybe that's just the camera. Pretty common in the winter. Not a big deal.
 
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