As you said if the claims are true, which I see no reason they're not, then it's quite an impressive oil. I'm curious if this tech makes it into other oils.
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Valvoline Restore & Protect
- Thread starter Scott S
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I usually only buy supertech but $30 for the 5 quart jug or $10/qt seems like a huge price difference. I should have just bought 2 jugs.
I bought some for my very high mileage , formerly sludged up 5.4. I figure it'll either do nothing or plug up the oil return forcing me to swap in a lower mileage engine.
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And honestly, what good are the Specs/Certs when those oils causes the problem anyway, as in the case of our Audi Q7 with its Audi dealer specified Castrol Euro oils and 10K mile factory recommended changes? The certified Castrol Euro 5-40 oil caused the stuck oil control rings to begin with....
I'll use the 5W-30 VR&P and take my chances as we went from using a quart in 400 miles, to zero oil consumption in 3000 miles after a Berrymans B12 piston soak and the switch to VR&P, I used the shotgun method on it like that before the engine took a valve out, which the 3.0t is know to do with excessive oil consumption, it will hold the exhaust valve open with carbon deposits that stick in the valve, prevent it from closing and torch the valve.
I'm on the second fill of VR&P now and will continue to use on 5000 mile changes with it until they come with VR&P in a 40 weight or a Euro spec to keep the oil control rings from sticking again. The power is up along with the fuel mileage and engine smoothness in our Q7. I wouldn't think of going away from it from what I've seen firsthand. I'm also happy to see the low wear metals on the used oil sampling people have done with VR&P too. Just as good as the very expensive boutique Euro oils in the same 3.0t engine tells me Valvoline did something right with this stuff.
Oh, and the carbon thats been loaded in my filters is finally starting to settle down and come clean. Yes, the early filter were loaded up with carbon chunks, I suspect from the Berrymans to begin with. The VR&P is doing the final cleaning I suspect when the Berryman's B12 did the heavy lifting to immediately free up the oil control rings.
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True. Would love for them to have a 0w30/40 Euro spec eventually.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
The concern is more about having adequate levels of AW compounds (like ZDDP) and sufficient HTHS.
Dirty engines are caused more from too long of OCIs, use conditions like short tripping and inadequate PVC system design then it is by the oil Specs/Certs.
I have a 2006 4.0 Tacoma with 130K miles that was a quart low on the last 5K mile oil change. I'm going to give it a try.
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R&P use would probably do well to mitigate GDI issues but i could not comment on the alleged tribochemical barrier. If it’s supposed coating I would assume the R&P would work to clean it off or prevent it from depositing in the first place.
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If the stick rings haven’t worn a groove in the cylinder walls you should have some success with this.
I'm using R&P in my F250 with 35k miles (its a ten years old truck that takes short trips) and was shocked to observe a few things right out of the gate:
- It idles smoother in gear
- It seems to have more off-the line power
- It starts quieter. This is pronounced as I have a remote start that I use and usually hear it from within my house. I started it a few time while standing about 10ft away, and it is drastically quieter. No idea if that means anything, but its a nice side benefit.
I'm not trying to clean up the engine, as I don't think its very dirty, but prevent sludge from the short trips. Especially on days like today (-3 degrees F).
- It idles smoother in gear
- It seems to have more off-the line power
- It starts quieter. This is pronounced as I have a remote start that I use and usually hear it from within my house. I started it a few time while standing about 10ft away, and it is drastically quieter. No idea if that means anything, but its a nice side benefit.
I'm not trying to clean up the engine, as I don't think its very dirty, but prevent sludge from the short trips. Especially on days like today (-3 degrees F).
Lot of great/interesting reports on here from the VRP, seems to be the real deal.
I posted this before but I used it for 1 OCI on our Mazda which was in the high 70k range when it went in. I had done a BG EPR flush on the OCI prior as well. My observations during that run were:
- Engine ran very well, possibly "smoother" although hard to quantify
- Oil was much darker than expected
- It did use 3/4-1qt over 5100 miles. This isn't typical for this motor, cleaning effect?
I plan on returning to VRP on the next OCI and will report observations then. I am also planning on using it in my '03 Corolla that currently has almost 254k miles. The car has been owned by me and a friend of mine since 26k, so history is known. On average; 5k OCI's for the life of the car, mostly synthetic. I did also run EPR around 248k. I'm due for an oil change in a month or so and plan on changing the VC gasket. I'm not expecting it to be dirty but I'll get pics none the less as a baseline and after running 3-4 intervals will get pics again (might take a while). Also one other baseline note; the car uses about 1/2qt in 4-5k.
I posted this before but I used it for 1 OCI on our Mazda which was in the high 70k range when it went in. I had done a BG EPR flush on the OCI prior as well. My observations during that run were:
- Engine ran very well, possibly "smoother" although hard to quantify
- Oil was much darker than expected
- It did use 3/4-1qt over 5100 miles. This isn't typical for this motor, cleaning effect?
I plan on returning to VRP on the next OCI and will report observations then. I am also planning on using it in my '03 Corolla that currently has almost 254k miles. The car has been owned by me and a friend of mine since 26k, so history is known. On average; 5k OCI's for the life of the car, mostly synthetic. I did also run EPR around 248k. I'm due for an oil change in a month or so and plan on changing the VC gasket. I'm not expecting it to be dirty but I'll get pics none the less as a baseline and after running 3-4 intervals will get pics again (might take a while). Also one other baseline note; the car uses about 1/2qt in 4-5k.
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A little higher than expected burn is not unheard of with this oil on a first run. It should taper off with 4 ocis. But don’t let it put you off that the first run burned a little more.
if it frees the rings by dissolving carbon you may end up with a thicker drain than expecting due to the high dissolved carbon content. This seems to be especially noticeable when draining the filter.
if it frees the rings by dissolving carbon you may end up with a thicker drain than expecting due to the high dissolved carbon content. This seems to be especially noticeable when draining the filter.
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This seems like a good experience and a good attitude to have for what to expect from the oil. Let us know how it works for you.
I definitely will! On your tapering off note; I think you may be right. I was fully intending to put VRP back in but we went through some life difficulties and my wife had it changed at WM (they used PP). Looking forward to going back to VRP to see how it goes
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Best of luck. And that has been the experience for the majority of people. Let us know how the experience is.I definitely will! On your tapering off note; I think you may be right. I was fully intending to put VRP back in but we went through some life difficulties and my wife had it changed at WM (they used PP). Looking forward to going back to VRP to see how it goes
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The last 10 minutes would be of interest to members here perhaps tho I am just learning video editing and it was easier for me to try and put phone clips together. If I do another follow up video I will be doing it in a condensed format.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
What oil brands did you use in the prior 35k? I'm assuming you stayed with similar viscosities.
Valvoline always seemed to produce my quietest engines. I purchased three jugs of VRP for my daughter's Acadia.
So I guess I can say I got the Valvoline purchasing itch again
I bought the truck with 25k miles on it in March of 2024. So prior to that I'm not sure. It had a fresh change when I bought it, but also a slight oil leak in the filter housing adapter/cooler. I changed the oil with Amsoil 5w-30 Euro, investigated the leak (needed to tighten the cooler) and changed again in October (Amsoil 0w-30 Euro) when I got the proper tool to tighten the cooler down.
I believe the dealer that I bought the truck from changed the oil with 5w-20 as that's labeled on the oil cap. But the owner's manual states 5w-30. The increase in viscosity was noticeable in the reduction of engine noise. No noticeable performance difference though.
For what its worth, I have a couple hundred miles on the oil due to a weekend trip. My initial observations are basically gone. Idle is back to normal, power is normal, and the initial start-up growl is back to normal. But we have had some very cold weather, which could affect all of those things.
I believe the dealer that I bought the truck from changed the oil with 5w-20 as that's labeled on the oil cap. But the owner's manual states 5w-30. The increase in viscosity was noticeable in the reduction of engine noise. No noticeable performance difference though.
For what its worth, I have a couple hundred miles on the oil due to a weekend trip. My initial observations are basically gone. Idle is back to normal, power is normal, and the initial start-up growl is back to normal. But we have had some very cold weather, which could affect all of those things.
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