Looked at all the SDSs, looks like all three grades are 80-90% GTL
Valvoline EP High Mileage
- Thread starter threeone
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Wow, I'm not sure anything sounds as cool as those Detroit's to my ears. And I'm not a diesel lover at all.
Nice pick and choose to make a point
Valvoline evidenced more than 4x the MoDTC, 10% more Boron and 200cP lower CCS.
I would say they are very competitive. Now we can ponder DN or TN on the moly.
Regardless of VOA, the oil performs very well in service.
Haven't run M1 in ages due to previous disappointments in performance. Though a run of EP 0W20 a couple years ago in the wife's car seemed acceptable; Likely as it was a suspected classic majority PAO formulation that Mobil used to be known for decades ago. Ther was no UOA done then.
May try M1 again in the coming years given formulation change cycles and considering new Saudi ownership of Valvoline.
- Ken
Two-stroke with supercharged intake and exhaust scavenging by necessity of windowed cylinder port induction- so they sound like they are spinning twice as fast as they are! They also come in V8, V12 and V16 turbocharged supercharged
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Not bad.
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I honestly wasn't trying to pick and choose, but likewise, you picked and chose different metrics to also prove a point.Nice pick and choose to make a point
Valvoline evidenced more than 4x the MoDTC, 10% more Boron and 200cP lower CCS.
I would say they are very competitive. Now we can ponder DN or TN on the moly.
Regardless of VOA, the oil performs very well in service.
Haven't run M1 in ages due to previous disappointments in performance. Though a run of EP 0W20 a couple years ago in the wife's car seemed acceptable; Likely as it was a suspected classic majority PAO formulation that Mobil used to be known for decades ago. Ther was no UOA done then.
May try M1 again in the coming years given formulation change cycles and considering new Saudi ownership of Valvoline.
- Ken
I have zero doubts about its ability to performance in service. I've run that oil before, it was fine. I just think saying it "eats Mobil 1's lunch" or whatever it a little over the top, but I'll give you this, as $8 per jug less at Walmart than Mobil 1 right now after rebate, I may also be running it soon.
What was the previous disappointment with M1?
Yes I was partially just poking fun at M1.
Lots of history. Spent a lot of money and ran the original (5W20 I think it was) back in the 80's and had dump it right out. Went around the block. The 2.8L V6 engine in an S10 made all kinds of racket and was low on power. Let it sit, tried later - same bad performance. Sadly, put back in a typical conventional 5W30 and all was fine immediately- that turned me off for almost a decade.
Then a few years later a coworker (three mile island electrical engineer) told me his oil pump failed on his meticulously maintained Camry 4 cylinder ( mid to late 80's vintage) Then he confessed, "I don't know why - I always ran Mobil 1" (!) I just stored that data point.
Then I tried it again in the mid 90's - I forget the car and engine (!) but that vehicle was noisy , clattery and was low on power with that oil. That was the 0W30AFE.
Then later again I tried the tri syn 5W30 in a Mitsubishi Colt stick car. Now that engine LOVED the stuff. Never ran better - good power all they way up the rev range.
At various times in the 8-'s and 90's I used M1R4T synthetic superbike (true) synthetic as an "additive" or booster to conventional Mobil Clean 5000. Worked great. Then XoM reformulated it and it was a dog. Big disappointment.
Recently I have used M1 0w40 FS as a booster for my Jetta Turbo. For viscosity tailoring. The low HTHS 20 grade VAG 508 spec oil needed a bit of a boost to prevent hot engine clatter and power loss. That worked great.
Now XoM reformulated that. Haven't tired it since, but I have no application for viscosity tailoring.
The best oil I have run recently has been Quaker State Full synthetic 10W30. Runs fantistic with good cold starting and warm-up manners noted in the late winter last year - and much improved fuel mileage over a 5W20. Amazing. Also presents with good low speed lugging and chugging ability. OIl just behave so well it "forgettable" The engine runs fantastic at all time and you have no oil performance concern. I think the 10W30 is a special blend and should be chosen over 5W20 or 5W30. At tlest the batch I got was good.
Caveat: All this is unfortunately changeable batch to batch. So it's a roll of the dice each OCI - unless you cleaned out the store, essentially hording the over-performing vintage.
- Ken
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Respectfully, I think you're way overthinking this.
Viscosity tailoring? Boosting one oil by adding an arbitrary amount of another? By doing that you may be mixing two add packs together that could compete and actually diminish the tribofilm.
If you're getting better mileage with a 30 weight instead of a 20 then it's because you have blow-by and the thicker oil is creating a better ring seal.
No I am reasoning it just right.
Yes about the DP conflict concern- but it didn't happen. Second OCI I had changed to MOTUL 508/509 I mail ordered at great expense. It was just too thin. The car ate a quart of it in about 500 miles after the OCI.
I had some M1 0W40FS in stock for a large generator oil change coming up and I added 3/4 of that to top off the VW. The engine loved it and ran fantastic for almost a year to when I turned the lease in.
MOTUL 8100 is the French Mobil of the 1990's - its just spelled wrong
I am not driving about in a car that is clattering and knocking due to low HTHS. I am going to address that.
Happens MORE often than not with 0W20
And a "maybe" on the blow by. This Ford 2.0 D.I engine had been "damaged" by fuel dilution.
But this is a great oil. Noted that when using in my OHV 252cc TORO snow blower - how much better it ran. And also that it pull stated fine in 18 degree F temps.
A Personal Recommendation: Try Cheetos® - they are crunchier !
I really cannot imagine that topping up 3.4 qt with m1 0w40 fs would have any noticeable affect on consumption (even though it's my preferred oil). I have had oil burning vehicles in the past and some that just used a qt in 2-3k miles...they all used more or less the same amount no matter what oil I used. 0w30 or 15w40. My vehicles just really didn't have any consistent noticeable difference between any oils.No I am reasoning it just right.
Yes about the DP conflict concern- but it didn't happen. Second OCI I had changed to MOTUL 508/509 I mail ordered at great expense. It was just too thin. The car ate a quart of it in about 500 miles after the OCI.
I had some M1 0W40FS in stock for a large generator oil change coming up and I added 3/4 of that to top off the VW. The engine loved it and ran fantastic for almost a year to when I turned the lease in.
MOTUL 8100 is the French Mobil of the 1990's - its just spelled wrong
I am not driving about in a car that is clattering and knocking due to low HTHS. I am going to address that.
Happens MORE often than not with 0W20
And a "maybe" on the blow by. This Ford 2.0 D.I engine had been "damaged" by fuel dilution.
But this is a great oil. Noted that when using in my OHV 252cc TORO snow blower - how much better it ran. And also that it pull stated fine in 18 degree F temps.
A Personal Recommendation: Try Cheetos® - they are crunchier !
And the first synthetics way back in the day, I don't know about because I wasn't alive...but I don't think they should be compared to modern stuff.
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Clattering and knocking (that's not what "knocking" means when talking about engines btw, knocking in the context of engines means pre-detonating) due to low HTHS... Why would you not just step up a full grade? What advantage are you getting by trying to tailor the viscosity with a little bit of this and a little bit of that? The result of what you're doing can't be measured or repeated accurately.No I am reasoning it just right.
Yes about the DP conflict concern- but it didn't happen. Second OCI I had changed to MOTUL 508/509 I mail ordered at great expense. It was just too thin. The car ate a quart of it in about 500 miles after the OCI.
I had some M1 0W40FS in stock for a large generator oil change coming up and I added 3/4 of that to top off the VW. The engine loved it and ran fantastic for almost a year to when I turned the lease in.
MOTUL 8100 is the French Mobil of the 1990's - its just spelled wrong
I am not driving about in a car that is clattering and knocking due to low HTHS. I am going to address that.
Happens MORE often than not with 0W20
And a "maybe" on the blow by. This Ford 2.0 D.I engine had been "damaged" by fuel dilution.
But this is a great oil. Noted that when using in my OHV 252cc TORO snow blower - how much better it ran. And also that it pull stated fine in 18 degree F temps.
A Personal Recommendation: Try Cheetos® - they are crunchier !
Sorry this is an elite cognosenti. What is the password?
The consumption was likely transitory with the oil brand change - likely Castrol to Motul. I just used what I had on hand as the level was low. Somehow magic happened. I am not questioning it.
That oil stayed in almost a year (~6kmi) till the lease was turned in. Level was good - engine ran good. It was a fun motor with the stick shift. To bad the front end had a horrendous wheel hop problem.
Saw this thread the other day, had a dream that it had 566ppm of moly 
Got a qt of 0w20 and 5w30 at Walmart. Sending both out for VOAs at oil analyzers.
It’s primarily GTL based based on the SDS, when both regular EP and Advanced is just a hydrocracked grp 3 based on the SDS.
Will post the VOAs when I get them back.
Got a qt of 0w20 and 5w30 at Walmart. Sending both out for VOAs at oil analyzers.
It’s primarily GTL based based on the SDS, when both regular EP and Advanced is just a hydrocracked grp 3 based on the SDS.
Will post the VOAs when I get them back.
Valvoline Tech Line (Steve).
With all due respect I don't care what you want. I got my answer from the source. You have Google look up their # and call them.
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Techlines are useless call centers,
Once we see the voa/uoa data, then we'll know more.
Once we see the voa/uoa data, then we'll know more.
