Using Valvoline Restore and Protect from new...

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I read a lot about VRP being used to clean up engines that have developed deposits. What about using it from new? Are there any downsides? I have a 2025 Honda HRV that is short tripped constantly. The engine is a 2.0L, normally aspirated, port fuel injection 4 cyl (K20Z5). The Honda maintenance minder is on track to call for an oil change at only 3000 miles, which I believe is due to the constant short tripping. I suppose I could drive more to "condition" the oil but what about using VRP from the first oil change and onward? I'm not concerned with the short oil change interval as it is what it is. I'm more concerned with keeping the engine clean. If a 3k mile OCI with VRP is what it takes to keep the engine clean, I'm good with that. Thoughts?
 
As long as VRP carries the Honda approvals, I wouldn't worry one bit.
To me, approvals are the sticking point these days. Apparently pretty costly for the manufacturers to aquire.
I don't think that will be a problem. The only specifics called out in the manual are API SP in a 0w-20 viscosity. In fact, I'm not even sure it calls out SP.
 
I read a lot about VRP being used to clean up engines that have developed deposits. What about using it from new? Are there any downsides? I have a 2025 Honda HRV that is short tripped constantly. The engine is a 2.0L, normally aspirated, port fuel injection 4 cyl (K20Z5). The Honda maintenance minder is on track to call for an oil change at only 3000 miles, which I believe is due to the constant short tripping. I suppose I could drive more to "condition" the oil but what about using VRP from the first oil change and onward? I'm not concerned with the short oil change interval as it is what it is. I'm more concerned with keeping the engine clean. If a 3k mile OCI with VRP is what it takes to keep the engine clean, I'm good with that. Thoughts?
If it was mine, I would go up a grade in viscosity and change to VRP at the next oil change.
 
I just changed over to VRP 0W20 @ 22k miles on my '21 Audi SQ5 Sportback w/3.0 TFSI (which has the single turbo in the hot "V").

I have been using Ravenol VSW 0W30, a VW504-spec oil, and I thought about using VRP 5W30, but decided that while I'm not using VW508-spec oil, at least this OCI will have the factory-spec'd oil weight.

Now, just awaiting Blackstone Lab's UOA results on the Ravenol oil.
 
I just changed over to VRP 0W20 @ 22k miles on my '21 Audi SQ5 Sportback w/3.0 TFSI (which has the single turbo in the hot "V").

I have been using Ravenol VSW 0W30, a VW504-spec oil, and I thought about using VRP 5W30, but decided that while I'm not using VW508-spec oil, at least this OCI will have the factory-spec'd oil weight.

Now, just awaiting Blackstone Lab's UOA results on the Ravenol oil.
In something like that at least use 5w-30.
 
As long as VRP carries the Honda approvals, I wouldn't worry one bit.
To me, approvals are the sticking point these days. Apparently pretty costly for the manufacturers to aquire.
I would not worry about the Approvals, if all of these so-called approvals meant anything, we would not need VRP. On the flip side, there are people who do extended OCI's that need VRP. If those people did 5K OCI's then maybe it is a different story.
 
I would not worry about the Approvals, if all of these so-called approvals meant anything, we would not need VRP. On the flip side, there are people who do extended OCI's that need VRP. If those people did 5K OCI's then maybe it is a different story.
Well, that's the thing, most of the Japanese marques just require the basic API/ILSAC "approvals", which many of us have noted over the years, aren't overly rigorous, that's why you can get some incredibly cheap lubes that meet the performance requirements.
 
The problem is piston deposits aren’t remedied by oci length. The heat around the pistons breaks down oils as soon as the engine is started. Lesser oils leave more deposits. The 5k oci is not the cure. You can run R&P from the start or use higher quality oils. As I always say this is engine and condition dependent.
 
The problem is piston deposits aren’t remedied by oci length. The heat around the pistons breaks down oils as soon as the engine is started. Lesser oils leave more deposits. The 5k oci is not the cure. You can run R&P from the start or use higher quality oils. As I always say this is engine and condition dependent.
What are the higher quality oil's, we have no proof that these so called higher quality oil's will prevent deposits or clean them up. These higher quality oils will maybe prevent deposits to a certain extent. I am not agreeing that the pistons break down oils as soon as the engine is started.

Your post has me now thinking more than ever that once my stash of Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 is done that I will be thinking about using Valvoline Restore and Protect. I am not using any oil with ESP 5W-30 versus the ESP 0W-30, and Mobil does claim that the ESP does do some cleaning.
 
What are the higher quality oil's, we have no proof that these so called higher quality oil's will prevent deposits or clean them up. These higher quality oils will maybe prevent deposits to a certain extent. I am not agreeing that the pistons break down oils as soon as the engine is started.

Your post has me now thinking more than ever that once my stash of Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 is done that I will be thinking about using Valvoline Restore and Protect. I am not using any oil with ESP 5W-30 versus the ESP 0W-30, and Mobil does claim that the ESP does do some cleaning.
IMO higher quality oils use higher quality ingredients and base oils that withstand heat and breakdown. Especially in severe service. Oils like ESP are on that list. I agree it’s unknown if they can reverse the process. My ESP test will be complete in 2-3 years(60k miles). Then I’ll know for sure. As of now my oil consumption is actually continuing to improve.
 
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