Using SuperTech full synthetic vs name brands

[quickegt]

Been using Supertech synthetic in all my engine for years without a single issue. I have sent several away for UOA over the years when I first started using Supertech because truth be told I was nervous about using an inexpensive oil. I had previously sworn complete allegiance to M1.

At the time, we had a Freestyle and a 10,000 mile UOA on that with ST 5w30 came back suggesting 12,000 miles. I stayed with 10k because it was easy to look at the odometer and know when to change.

I also had and still have a 2000 XJ Cherokee. Same 5w30 ST and that UOA at 5,000 miles suggested 7,500 miles. I have stayed with 5k for the same reason as above.

I use Supertech in any engine that requires oil.

 

[haggler]

If rebates for 2 bucks a quart, go with name brand (m1 ep). If not, Kirkland on sale in store $23~ for 10 quarts. Doesn't really matter especially at 5k OCI.

 

[corster]

You should just wait for the Super Tech rebate!

Funny enough... I stocked up on Pennzoil Plat during their last rebate (cheaper than Supertech!), so short of a massive price increase my days of running dino appear to be over!

 

[kyoo]

im bumping this - i'm planning to switch to supertech for cost savings in my beater cars - i assume these oils still run great? (not that the thread was from that long ago). Will be switching from the standard or advanced fuel economy mobil1 oils

i used to do 3k mile oil changes, switched to 10-12k after joining bitog, and going back to 5k after experiencing some consumption in oil in the toyotas. i think 10k is great for most people, but my driving style/patterns i think necessitate shorter intervals, especially in the prius which turns on and off. I started watching the carcarenut, who is a very detail-oriented Toyota mastertech, and I kind of side with him on shorter OCIs for toyotas, especially when you're doing the break-in. He's opened up some oil filters from the first few changes with lots of metal particulate inside.

 

[missingcurlybracket]

For beaters I wouldn't blink an eye.

I've thrown ST 0W-20 and 5W-30 (high mileage and/or full synthetic) at my SO's 1.8 HR-V, her cousin's 1.5T CR-V and my 2.4 Sorento respectively in the past year but I've more recently switched to Costco/Kirkland for pricing.

A side note, but coming down the pipeline for the Honda's is Pennzoil 0W-20 since they're running that $20 gift card for 10 qt equivalent promotion (I think Valvoline has a $5 rebate too going on?) and maybe her dad's old 10W-30 stash for the ol' Theta II.

 

[Corollaman]

If your changing your oil on a regular basis I don't think you'll notice a difference.

 

[bbhero]

Actually it works the other way around. To get higher cranking amps they have to put more lead in the batteries reducing room between the plates. This results in a shorter life span. If you don't have a specific need for the higher cranking amps go with the lower to increase service life.

Nonsense…

Seriously….. Group 24f batteries weigh as little as 37 pounds… and have limited life and warranty length…. Yet a Thin plate pure lead group 24f battery that weighs a staggering 58 pounds has a 5 free replacement warranty.

Nonsense about space between plates… that doesn’t matter if constructed correctly.

 

[TiGeo]

I use the regular syn ST in 2 of my older vehicles with 5K changes. $21 for 5 qts is the going rate about $1 less than Quaker State which also is a good one for this. It's fine.