That's not correct. There is a lot of evidence of massive grade difference recommendation in engines with no differences at all.I would either use the manufacturer's recommendation, or one grade higher. If manufacturer suggests 5 grade higher in another part of the world, chances are CAFE is not the only difference.
And when you think about it, it makes perfect sense. Any engine that can use a 20 grade can of course use the 50 grade because the oil that is 20grade at 100C is also a "50 grade" KV100 when the temperature drops 20C.
So it's impossible to design an engine to be satisfactory on 20 grade oils but NOT satisfactory on 50 grades because oils only thicken as they cool and every engine at some point has a colder start with thicker oil.
A 0w-8 at 40C is still roughly twice as thick as a 0w-40 at 100C.
At 110C, a 50 grade is about the same viscosity at a 40 grade at 100C. Which is the same viscosity as a 30 grade at 85C. Which is the same viscosity as a 20 grade at about 77C.
There is always some temperature at which an oil will have the same viscosity as any other oil at any given temperature.
This is really important to remember. But it shows that every engine that has major temperature swings (and they all do) will necessarily have massive viscosity swings in its oils.
Which is why it is all but impossible for an engine specified for 0w-20 to not be OK on 50 grade. Because they engine IS running on a 50 grade (viscosity wise) or thicker until it's nearly completely warm.
Moreover, the condition under which you would need a thinner oil-- high load, hotter temperatures, higher RPM-- will thin a 50 grade down and increase its flow rate and lower its viscosity.
IN terms of engine protection and wear mitigation, a really thick oil is only a detriment during a cold start and only then if sufficiently thick to delay oil pressure beyond 3 seconds or so when started, which can be significantly mitigated by smart EP/AW additizing (moly).
That leaves just the elevated parasitic drag of pumping thicker oil. Which the most minor of downsides, but is the entire rationale for thinner oils.
One will search with much frustration to find any tribological papers showing lower wear with thinner oils in a nominal operating condition. Thicker oils protect better. The only real argument against them is that the extra protection isn't enough to warrant eating a small fuel economy penalty over someone's assume ownership period. If you have a own-nothing-and-be-happy mindset of perpetual leasing, there's no benefit to going much thicker, going only a grade thicker is sufficient.
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