Half acre doesn’t need a large rider. I have a 34” ZTR and if anything it’s done too soon. Ariens zoom 34 has been a good mower. There are certainly times where I’d like the sturdier quality of a LT but for cutting grass and dragging things around it has done everything I need and can ramp up into the bed of the truck if needed. Smaller rider stores easier in the garage too.
Used Riding Lawnmower - Which Brand and Model
- Thread starter 2002 Maxima SE
- Start date
I have two homes and 4 riding tractors. All have B&S motors that have served me very well. Two are built by Husqvarna and one is a Troy Bilt Horse model with 46" deck and one is an old Murray that came from my sisters home when she could no longer mow her own yard. The old Murray is a 38" with 12.5hp Briggs and still mows great. Had to replace one spindle on it but on the Husquvarnas no spindles. The Husqs have 42" decks that are very sturdy and one is a hydro-stat that has given us no trouble and is near 30 years old. If you have hilly ground like we have at one home we use the manual trans Husq. It has 19.5 single cylinder B&S and the hydro model has a 20hp single B&S. Neither one has had any issues. I service them annually and keep up with belts and blades myself. Blade speed is highest on the Troy-Bilt and the Murray so they make a slightly better looking job, but I am not picky since I have to do it again next week.
I’d say forget about a residential grade rider and go with a commercial grade walk behind unit. You can usually pick up an old belt drive 50 something inch walk behind for under a grand and they are built like tanks compared with residential grade machines. Throw a sulky on a walk behind mower and you have a poor man’s stander.
However if you have a wet yard like mine avoid a belt drive mower and try to find a hydrostatic unit like my old Ferris walk behind. I bought it off a landscaper for dirt cheap because it was a pain to change the cutting hight on requiring shims and spacers on both the blades and wheels to be added or removed to adjust it. Not a problem for a homeowner who is going to set it once and probably never have to change it again, but a royal pain for a landscaper who may have to change the cutting hight at every job to meet each customers requirement. Sure it has a ton of hours on it and needed some work. However it has been far far far more reliable, and bulletproof then any residential grade rider or zero turn I have ever had.
However if you have a wet yard like mine avoid a belt drive mower and try to find a hydrostatic unit like my old Ferris walk behind. I bought it off a landscaper for dirt cheap because it was a pain to change the cutting hight on requiring shims and spacers on both the blades and wheels to be added or removed to adjust it. Not a problem for a homeowner who is going to set it once and probably never have to change it again, but a royal pain for a landscaper who may have to change the cutting hight at every job to meet each customers requirement. Sure it has a ton of hours on it and needed some work. However it has been far far far more reliable, and bulletproof then any residential grade rider or zero turn I have ever had.
I'm gonna be the odd one out and suggest maybe a Cub Cadet. Little bit cheaper, but for .6 acre it will be just fine if you have a relatively flat yard. The LT46 will have a 22HP Kohler and 46" deck. I mow about the same and mowed with one for years. My yard is very uneven and cut up so it wouldn't mow as even as I liked, but on another yard that was pretty flat it mowed perfect. I put 80 hours on it without a single issue that wasn't self inflicted. I upgraded to a zero turn, but I know that's out of your budget. I would avoid the 42" version that has the Intellipower (sp?) single cylinder as they don't seem as reliable as the others.
It's funny you mention that but my 2007 Craftsman with the 18hp 'Intek' began using oil/fouling the plug 2 seasons ago and it was the head gasket. A fellow BITOGer pointed me in that direction and I replaced the HG myself and it wasn't too difficult (I'm not the 'handiest' guy but IIRC Youtube had a very good video on it).
My 19 y/o Craftsman is running like a top again.
I've got 2 '96 lawn tractors. Both manual trans. One Sears 14.5 BS and a JD L100 17 BS. The JD was inherited and in poor shape. Tires and a deck rebuild and it was up and running. Both 42'' decks.
Had 2 places at the time so the Sears went from mowing and snow plowing to just mowing for a while and it's back to just plowing and towing with only one place to maintain now.
Starter, valve cover gasket and the bottom crank seal is all the Sears has needed in the 30 yrs. I've had it. I beat the crap out of it plowing snow.
JD is just mowing and leaves pick up duty. Its only needed a starter, can't count deck belts on any mower. On the JD only JD deck belts last, I've tried them all.
I was getting a puff of oil smoke on cold starts in the Sears, V R&P oil in it seems to be working as no smoke on start ups now lately.
Sears was never parked without a roof over it, not the JD until I got it.
Had 2 places at the time so the Sears went from mowing and snow plowing to just mowing for a while and it's back to just plowing and towing with only one place to maintain now.
Starter, valve cover gasket and the bottom crank seal is all the Sears has needed in the 30 yrs. I've had it. I beat the crap out of it plowing snow.
JD is just mowing and leaves pick up duty. Its only needed a starter, can't count deck belts on any mower. On the JD only JD deck belts last, I've tried them all.
I was getting a puff of oil smoke on cold starts in the Sears, V R&P oil in it seems to be working as no smoke on start ups now lately.
Sears was never parked without a roof over it, not the JD until I got it.
I guess the mower is a bit more than the engine and transmission, but those are made by someone else and available in many many other mowers. Almost every brand of lawn tractor is assembled in the US as well, using the same major components.
TBH last time I really looked at lawn tractors seriously was like 15 years ago, and they all were basically the same thing with different color paint. You had a few options to pick your mix of engine and transmission, and deck size, seat quality, but there isn't a whole lot to differentiate them other than paint and price.
Then I found an old 90's LT1000 hst for $300 and it still won't quit. I read that the old hydro-gear is much better than the newer low end HST's and I guess if its going at near 30 years old, it probably is?
I would go down to your local power equipment dealer for the commercial guys and see what they have in stock. You do not need a commercial grade machine for a little over half an acre. Self propelled for the incline certainly.
4wd
$50 site donor 2026
I have owned many and no issues - I do however go against the grain and don’t mow WOT - never have - never will …
my x300 had 60 hrs on it when I purchased. I looked at below 100 hrs used inventory before purchasing to see what was on the market. Looked specifically for Kawasaki engines. As noted drove to one of the smaller corporate dealer locations to get a better deal. Still happy camper.
Early to mid 90’s second gen Kubota g series garden tractor. G1800 or 1900 diesel or G2000 water cooled gasser. Parts availability is excellent, but some parts can be expensive. They can be had on marketplace for $1500-$2000. Definitely look it over.
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