Used Car - Thoughts on Undercarriage? - PICS

Good point. I usually keep a tab open for his CL side cars (link) just in case something pops up. I think his 48 hours service is more for cars on the other side of $10k though--which really isn't that much money these days, but I know I'm attempting to stay under that, so I tend to keep an eye more local (plus it'd be a pain to fly and drive).
I'm on the happy to go and get it and make it an adventure thing to bring it back plan. Look at some food threads here prior, may hit up Diner's, Drive In's and Dives.

Granted it was new but I flew from NY to Raleigh to pick up my Sequoia I ordered/bought from the dealer by airport. I bought a prior car from the same dealer when I was living there.
 
I'm on the happy to go and get it and make it an adventure thing to bring it back plan. Look at some food threads here prior, may hit up Diner's, Drive In's and Dives.

Granted it was new but I flew from NY to Raleigh to pick up my Sequoia I ordered/bought from the dealer by airport. I bought a prior car from the same dealer when I was living there.
I'm more of a, find the closest highway that gets me home the fastest, then treat the speed limits as the suggestion that they are. Not the greatest idea when shopping 20 year old cars with whatever tires they come with. I also avoid eating out and am rather anti-social normally--I have my moments but usually not.

Plus winter weather this time of year. Maybe if I bought new snow tires wherever I got the car from it wouldn't be quite the worry.
 
I think you will be ok and as others stated use Fluid Film or something on it. The steering wheel always feels better on those lower priced daily drivers that sit around a work parking lot depreciating on a daily basis.
 
Rusty brake and fuel lines? Those are far more easily replaced than the critical long term areas like the strut tower mounts (the sheet metal not the bearing lol), engine subframe, and unibody pinch weld area, rocker panels, and floor pan in general since they make up the structural integrity.

Buying something as recent as an '18, really anything worth more than beater value, I too would prefer a trusted southern region seller.
 
Thanks for all the replies everyone. I'll reread when not trying to multitask and give it some more thought. I really appreciate all the insight.

This is at a dealership and it's not beater pricing for sure.
 
Thanks for all the replies everyone. I'll reread when not trying to multitask and give it some more thought. I really appreciate all the insight.

This is at a dealership and it's not beater pricing for sure.
That vehicle is a piece of garbage.
 
Appreciate all the thoughts everyone.

I have this current model car, albeit several years older and much crustier. The family is very happy with how it drives and the sight lines, and it's been pretty trouble free until recently.

I'm not thrilled at the amount of rust on the cross members. It's a one owner that's been dealer maintained and has less than 60k on it. So it's a good mix of the features and low mileage, and it's relatively close to me compared to finding something down South. My thought would be to get it coated immediately with fluid Film or Wool wax and try to stop things where they sit now.

On the fence given the price, distance and these photos, so appreciate all of the different points of view here.
If you go with it I'd suggest a slather of naval jelly. If it works for the US Navy then maybe a truck.
 
You can do better. I'd buy it for a "need it for three years" car.

It looks like the lowest horizontal services were already wire brushed. I would redo that and wire brush everything else if it were my car then do the POR-15, or Rustoleum Rust converter, Naval Jelly etc then hit it all with Fluid film when done.

But why should I subject myself to something that's the result of someone else's carelessness? Maybe if it was cheap enough, I would.

So you say it's not that cheap. The dealer knows they'll hook some low credit moron who won't look underneath, and won't haggle. You can low-ball them and have them say no, then it's "their fault" and you can move on.
 
Just my 2 cents, but I think if you got religious with a annual undercoat spray like WoolWax or Blaster Surface Shield, you could get another 7+ years out of that vehicle before any of that rust would be critical. That means getting product inside and outside of the fram rails, control arms and cross members.
 
Looks solid, you can use Rust-Oleum 248658 Rust Reformer Spray to slow the rust down.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-A...Reformer/dp/B003HG48AC/ref=asc_df_B003HG48AC?


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I would not use Rust Reformer. You want an oil based product that "creeps".

I have use CarWell and NH Coatings. Best to have a shop do the initial spray as they have experience and nozzles on long wands to get way into places.

Where in NY? I have been able to suggest a place?
 
Looks like minor rust. I suggest wire brushing, the rust, then apply rust converter twice, then paint over.
While that sounds like a good solution and might work on a flat panel you will never get a rust converter into all the cracks, crevices and channels in the undercarriage. Thus the need for an oil based spray that creeps
 
I’m pretty sure OP hasn’t bought this vehicle and has no plans to do so, not sure what’s the point of all the suggestions on how to tackle the rust.
It is literally what the OP asked about and requesting peoples thoughts and opinions. He posted this like two days ago, so it is not like people are posting to some necro thread.
 
Thanks for the insight everyone.

It's correct I have not bought the car, and am going to keep looking.

But I do appreciate all of the insight on rust reformation, since my other current vehicles will still need some of that love. I get them fluid filmed every year, but always good to have some other thoughts on options.
 
If price was much better than comparables I would be afraid of that. However as others have said check the brake lines or be prepared to replace them.
 
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