An update on this problem seems to conclude the battery is fine. The replacement went dead after 2 days. Did some testing and see there is still a .55 amp draw 20 minutes after shutting everything off and closing the doors. I'll test again after letting it sleep longer, but when I pull the fuse labeled ECU-B, draw drops to .10 amps. That fuse controls a bunch of stuff like door locks, security system, RKE, etc. And the keyless entry WAS acting funky last week and I did replace some door lock actuators a few months ago. Will have to do more research and find wiring diagrams.
Newer cars have the "door open" sensor built into the latch so you simulate it closed by tripping the latch. This has old style plunger switches in the door opening. How would you simulate "door closed" with that type?