Unusual battery behavior

I’d like to suggest checking the functioning of the automatic interior light shut off. I imagine the Sequoia has a lot of interior lights and a control switch to manually keep them on or let the automatic system turn them off.
 
I would assume you left something on. You may or may not figure out what it was. If it happens a second time then more work is needed to get to the bottom of the issue.
 
What are the SOH, SOC and RES values ?
SOH refers to the " State of health" . The SOC is the "State of charge" and the RES is the ": resistance value" of the battery


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IMHO if it was dead dead dead when you tried it then there is something that drained it. Should take at least 24 hrs to fully recharge from that state if you can.
 
This morning,

The tester is only as good as the person using it. As explained several times in here they arent the final word but they are handy.
Hey if it tests good put it back into use. but hooking it up and saying its good after you said its bad and you said there was no way anything was left on.. well you cant have it both ways.

Either the battery is bad, or something is stuck on/left on. There are tests you can do to figure that out.. however the test isnt repetitively using a capacitive tester on the battery. So unless you want to take some of the good advice that was given in this thread.. this is pretty much over.

Arguing that your tester shows its good.. doesnt prove or disprove anything.

If anything putting it on charge overnight and actually using it in the vehicle should tell you pretty fast if its a one time occurrence....
or a phyical battery issue
or a car issue... which you can track down.. but not with a capacity battery tester.
 
The carbon pile load testers that can be adjusted to put a load of half the CCA I feel are pretty accurate as far as determining the fitness of a battery to continue to be used. But the battery must be fully charged for the test to work properly.
 
An update on this problem seems to conclude the battery is fine. The replacement went dead after 2 days. Did some testing and see there is still a .55 amp draw 20 minutes after shutting everything off and closing the doors. I'll test again after letting it sleep longer, but when I pull the fuse labeled ECU-B, draw drops to .10 amps. That fuse controls a bunch of stuff like door locks, security system, RKE, etc. And the keyless entry WAS acting funky last week and I did replace some door lock actuators a few months ago. Will have to do more research and find wiring diagrams.

Newer cars have the "door open" sensor built into the latch so you simulate it closed by tripping the latch. This has old style plunger switches in the door opening. How would you simulate "door closed" with that type?
 
ugh what a waste. old battery was still serviceable, now the brand new one has been drained & partly sulfated, shortening its life
 
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