Understand correctly....

[Duffyjr]

Since 99% of what I know about oil I learned here I just wanted to make sure I understand a couple things.

First, they still make oil rated SH SJ, for instance Kohler 10w30 which also carries the C rating for HD oil. Fairly certain on this one but just making sure.

Second and this has to do with VR1 street 10w30. Would it be safe to say this oil is similar to a SG SH and maybe older because of the ZDDP levels it has. Also i believe I read here or maybe the Valvoline site that VR1 would meet SN if it were not for the ZDDP levels so in other words they use a SN oil and just add more ZDDP to come up with VR1. The later being the reason it does not carry the API starburst thingy.

Last and I know this is heavily opinionated which I'm not looking for this to turn into but more of a ok or safe to say. HD oils were designed to be used in a engine that works in sever duty like very hot and dusty conditions and semi synthetic/synthetic would be a good choice for a snowblower because of the colder conditions you have to start them in. Again just looking to see if this thinking from what I've read her is correct.

 

[Kamele0N]

1) HD oils are usually diesel oils....thats why API Sx/Cx ratings.....they often downgrade those ratings to API Sx only since OPE equipement is 99,9% gasoline driven

2) At least here in EU "we" dont go lower than API SG.....SH/SJ are oils usuallly "imported" from US of A to be consumed in your imported OPE equipement

Like B&S 5w30 oil for snowthrowers...or SAE 30 for lawnmovers etc...

API SG sae J300 is the lowest standard you can buy domestic here

3) Synthetic will ALWAYS be safer choice in any OPE equipement since these are 99,9% aircooled engines

 

[andyd]

You guys slay me. How many angels can dance on the head of a pin? The valve springs on OPE aren't strong enough to cause the valve train wear that ZDDP prevents. I can pull start my snow blower at 0F. Thats the main object. I use 5W30 because the Rat also uses it. In days of yore, pre- Bitog, I used SA 30 because thats what B+S recommended. Later they qualified it to use any oil you want, but expect oil consumption. Now they say to just add oil. Check the oil every time you fuel. If the OPE won't start, warm it up to get it running. Happy New Year!

 

[BigD1]

Originally Posted By: Duffyjr
First, they still make oil rated SH SJ, for instance Kohler 10w30 which also carries the C rating for HD oil. Fairly certain on this one but just making sure.


Kohler 10w30 is dual rated for sure. I use it in my mowers. It's CF-4, CG, SH, SJ, and SL. Less than $3 a quart at my local hardware, so I roll with it.

 

[Kamele0N]

Originally Posted By: andyd
You guys slay me. How many angels can dance on the head of a pin?


http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=slay

Quote:
slay
1) killed it.
2) succeeded in something amazing.


what of the above?

Since 1) has the opposite meaning of 2)...... Gee your language can be confusing sometimes

 

[andyd]

Sorry for confusion ,Kamelon." you guys Slay me"" as in a stand up comedy routine that makes me laugh hard.

 

[Kamele0N]

Tnx for an explanation

 

[Duffyjr]

At the risk of sounding even stupider to some the reason I asked what I did was because I was trying to explain in another forum that they still made oil with SJ rating. The thread was about using a bottle of old oil and one guy said it must be ok because his manual said to use SJ and where else could you get SJ oil unless it was from older stock. And I politely responded with yes you can still buy new oil rated SJ and used Kohler as an example.

I then tried using VR1 as another example of an oil that had similar ingredients of an older API rating, that's why I used SG SH because I believe those were the last API ratings of higher levels of ZDDP, after that they started reducing the amounts of ZDDP.

I was mainly trying to make sure I was correct in what I posted so I could go back and correct myself if I was wrong.

Sorry for the confusion.

 

[jorton]

Resource conserving/energy conserving(ISLAC GF-4) used to contain a component that non-ISLAC rated oil didn't have. I think it was Friction Modifiers, which is a beneficial component in engine oil. So at that time ISLAC rated oils were preferred in automobile engines that were spec'd for 20 and 30 grade oil.

As recently as 2016 Pennzoil did not recommend their high miles oil in modern automobile engines for the same reason.

 

[andyd]

Thats the thing. Any oil made in the last decade is good enough to use in any crankcase. In a gas engine. Any oil , any grade. Heck go out 15 yrs old. Oil isn't a problem anymore. You guys are all engaged in minutiae. If you were running a fleet of cars , then maybe you would get UOAs or just go with a jobber for parts and lubes. Are some oils better than others? For sure. But for the average transportation appliance, you're fine with anything.

 

[Yah-Tah-Hey]

+10 on that andyd.

 

[Garak]

Despite the fact that modern motor oils work just fine in most older applications and in outdoor power equipment, there is nothing wrong with something like VR-1 or an HDEO in power equipment or an older vehicle. In fact, it might be more cost effective. I guarantee you that I can get VR-1 (not to mention any name brand monograde or HDEO) cheaper than I could an branded OPE oil.

The only thing to watch these days is that if some oil is claiming SJ specs, be sure that you trust them. SJ is technically still current, but there's a very good chance that a supposed SJ oil you see won't have the API Donut. If it doesn't, you have to trust the oil company that their product is, indeed, meeting SJ requirements, and not just tossing a random, old oil spec on there with the hope that no one cares and no one checks.

 

[CELICA_XX]

Originally Posted By: Garak
Despite the fact that modern motor oils work just fine in most older applications and in outdoor power equipment, there is nothing wrong with something like VR-1 or an HDEO in power equipment or an older vehicle.


I am no expert, but I listened to a podcast with Lake Speed Jr. and he said racing oils are formulated completely different from regular street oil and not designed to be used in a regular car.

He said racing oils were designed for short bursts of high performance use, and then changed... as opposed to a 5 - 7,000 mile OCI in a passenger vehicle.

There was also mention of potential damage to the cat / emission system

 

[Garak]

I'm talking the street legal VR-1 stuff you find on most shelves, not the non-street legal racing version. The odds of grabbing a race only oil at the local Walmart are slim to none.

 

[FowVay]

Lake Speed must have never watched a 24 hour endurance race where they cover 2000 miles or more in a day. I don't see the cars pulling into the pits and doing oil and filter changes. They slap on tires, change drivers, replace body panels that are damaged, and then they're back on the throttle until the next refuel.

 

[Garak]

Actually, lots of vehicles at Le Mans, for instance, use an A3/B4 oil.