Trying to find an 80" Battery Cable

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Nov 23, 2015
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The positive cable on MG has been a constant problem for as long as I've had the car. I've cut it back and put a new terminal on it a few times, but corrosion seems to always return(namely where the bare wire is clamped to the terminal) and I have trouble. In addition, it's always bugged me that it's black. It really needs to be cut back and cleaned up again, but it's getting to the point where I don't have a lot of wire to work with.

My car-long before my ownership-was converted to a single 12V(26R) from the original dual 6V configuration. The single battery is in the battery well behind the passenger seat(supposedly the original dual 6V config was for weight balance, with one behind each seat...). I put a new ground strap on it, bolted cleanly and securely to the body, a few years ago.

The original was I think British 120 strand, or roughly 6AWG. Obviously that does the job, but I know several have gone to 4AWG and it still fits in the original body clamps, etc. The cable runs from behind the passenger seat as mentioned to the starter solenoid(located on the passenger side also, down low roughly even with the firewall). The length is usually given as 80"

I've spent some time hunting and I can't seem to locate a premade cable in this length. Ideally I'd at least like to get something with battery end clamp already attached, as I've always found that more secure than the ones you make yourself. I can of course attach a ring to the other end myself without much trouble, although obviously completely premade is easiest.

Can anyone suggest a source for this? I've seen some suggest welding cable, especially since it tends to be more flexible, but also counter-arguments that the insulation isn't necessarily meant to stand up to oil and some of the other abuse a battery cable would get(the cable runs along the bottom of the body, roughly inside the transmission tunnel but with some exposure to road debris, etc). I'm certainly not opposed to buying the loose wire and putting it together either.
 
Local car audio store will have suitable wire, connections, and the tools to make you something. You'll need a different battery terminal to support a ring terminal, but they'll have those as well.

Just ask for something that is real copper wire since copper-coated aluminum is running rampant in the car audio area now.
 
i have used welding cable inside engine bays for years without issue. but i do believe napa and places like that carry true battery cable.
Lol, I was probably part of perpetuating the 'no welding wire' thing.

Back in the 90's I was a tech guy for a major name car audio cable manufacturer (not Monster) and we made it a point to stress how much welding cable wasn't the right thing to use.

'its not oil and gas resistant, who welds standing in oil/gas'

In reality, it is probably fine to use in certain applications. The constant underhood heat would be what I was more concerned with. Make sure the jacket is rated for suitable temps.
 
Lol, I was probably part of perpetuating the 'no welding wire' thing.

Back in the 90's I was a tech guy for a major name car audio cable manufacturer (not Monster) and we made it a point to stress how much welding cable wasn't the right thing to use.

'its not oil and gas resistant, who welds standing in oil/gas'

In reality, it is probably fine to use in certain applications. The constant underhood heat would be what I was more concerned with. Make sure the jacket is rated for suitable temps.
the jacket on welding cable is 100x tougher than anything put on “car audio” cable. i’ve used both, and i’ll never buy car audio cable again. most brand name welding cable is -40 to 105°C and oil resistant.
 
the jacket on welding cable is 100x tougher than anything put on “car audio” cable. i’ve used both, and i’ll never buy car audio cable again. most brand name welding cable is -40 to 105°C and oil resistant.
Wasn't back in the 90's, which is when that all started.

Today it is a different story, you have to really look for good cable, and you will pay for it.
 
I was into car audio decades ago and learned back then about using welding cable vs other cables, especially what was sold at car audio stores. I can't imagine that an engine bay is that risky to use it in. Protect it in wire loom.
 
Wasn't back in the 90's, which is when that all started.

Today it is a different story, you have to really look for good cable, and you will pay for it.
wire these days is out of control price wise. i buy quite a bit of “southwire” welding cable.
 
wire these days is out of control price wise. i buy quite a bit of “southwire” welding cable.

Yep, that's why the 12v industry is littered with crap copper-coated aluminum. Glad I'm not working in the business anymore and don't have to deal with it.
 
I buy a lot of different cable, wire, and tires supplies from Sherco Auto and Marine Supply. They have good specials, sell quality products, and offer great service and prices. sherco-auto.com
 
If you have soldering skills, I would make a cable. I make my own with welding cable and solder with a plumber's propane tank. It's better than anything you can buy.
 
Local car audio store will have suitable wire, connections, and the tools to make you something. You'll need a different battery terminal to support a ring terminal, but they'll have those as well.

Just ask for something that is real copper wire since copper-coated aluminum is running rampant in the car audio area now.
+1 What ctechbob said. A good stereo shop has to deal with high current wiring a lot. They probably will have what ever gauge you end up with in red. And they probably will have the correct hydraulic crimper to properly crimp the proper terminals.
 
I took my old cables to an alternator repair shop. They made them for me. Even used the original frame ground and starter connections with new battery terminals. It was so nice to have new cables after trying to deal with the corroded and shortened cables that didn't make good connection
 
Moss 332-085 works fine, although priced high. I installed one on my 71 about 6 years ago when I replaced the starter.

Local NAPA stores may make battery cables, some do around here.
 
I doubt your going to find a pre-made 80 inch cable. Its a odd length for one thing.

I would try to find something stamped SAE J1127 - which is the spec for automotive use.

What passes as battery cable in Auto parts stores these days is pretty poor. Even if you can actually find pure copper, its likely has the thinnest jacket possible, and its likely not a true gauge but a metric "equivalent" that is slightly less in diameter. If you understand how to calculate the area of a circle you understand why that matters. It may work, but size up and realize what your paying for - ie don't overpay. I won't use it.

I think welding cable jacket is heavy EPDM - which is great for insulating and flexing but it degrades if covered in oil or other automotive chemicals, so its not a good choice under the hood IMHO. Maybe they have better stuff these days, or maybe there is a specialty welding cable that is PUR coated or something?
 
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