Are you talking about the front or rear fender?
2012 KTM 500 EXC Refresh
- Thread starter JWC86
- Start date
Boy, that's something else. Nice work...
the Front, 2015/16 already casted for the newer style fender mounting.
I went and checked the OEM schematics, ya your right. Looks like even the 2014 they went to the newer style fender mounting.
Yeah wasnt sure if 2014 was the transition year, i just new 2015/16.
I believe 2012 and 13 run 10mm valve shims and 14 also transfered to 8.9 mm shims, but definitely by 2015.
2015 was the change to the Latest speedo configuration, thats on new bikes today.
Thanks for the info, this might be helpful down the road when I'm trying to find parts.
The only changes I was aware of on the 12-16 bikes was that in 14 they switched the small end rod bearing to a plain bearing and the "gauge cluster" was updated to the more modern style with the indicator lights built into the unit.
Finally got all the decals done, I wasn't expecting them to be so time consuming. Probably have 5-6 hours in them. It was my first time and didn't want to mess them up so I just took my time. Turned out really good thou I think. In the pics the colors look very different, the orange in the back is on the decals and the glare in the pics makes it look very light but I think its just the glare. Looks better in person.
Now that that is out of the way I will get back on track with some real work.
Now that that is out of the way I will get back on track with some real work.
Fixed the split on the airbox cover with some epoxy.
Before:
After:
A company called Motominded makes this mount thing for behind the headlight mask.
It has holes to accomadate securing wiring and also allows for a more solid way to attach the headlight mask rather than the rubber straps around the forks. Its designed for the 17+ bikes but I'm going to see if I can make it work on my 2012.
Turns out the holes on the tripple clamp and speedo lined right up and since the mask I'm using is for 17+ bikes it also fits no problem.
Now it's finally time to start looking at this mess of wires:
First thing is to just spend some time inspecting everything. Already found some frayed wires, one of the terminals going to the fuse box is corroded, insulation rubbed off wire, etc. Also its very apparent whoever KTM used to build these harnesses didn't care at all. The routing doesn't make sense, lots of bad crimps on terminals, tangled up all over. Just a mess.
Anyway, that's all for now. Waiting on some wiring parts and tools. Really busy with work also so this part may take awhile. I'll report back when I have some progress.
Cheers
Before:
After:
A company called Motominded makes this mount thing for behind the headlight mask.
It has holes to accomadate securing wiring and also allows for a more solid way to attach the headlight mask rather than the rubber straps around the forks. Its designed for the 17+ bikes but I'm going to see if I can make it work on my 2012.
Turns out the holes on the tripple clamp and speedo lined right up and since the mask I'm using is for 17+ bikes it also fits no problem.
Now it's finally time to start looking at this mess of wires:
First thing is to just spend some time inspecting everything. Already found some frayed wires, one of the terminals going to the fuse box is corroded, insulation rubbed off wire, etc. Also its very apparent whoever KTM used to build these harnesses didn't care at all. The routing doesn't make sense, lots of bad crimps on terminals, tangled up all over. Just a mess.
Anyway, that's all for now. Waiting on some wiring parts and tools. Really busy with work also so this part may take awhile. I'll report back when I have some progress.
Cheers
I remain amazed at how complex modern bikes are. Lest we forget how simply it can be done...
Technology marches on and gains complexity. And today the complexity is in electronics. You have traction modes, electronically adjusted suspension settings, lean angle sensors, ABS, cornering ABS, etc, all of that requires a bunch of sensors and wires, all of which look intimidating and complex.
Strip all of that away and the fundamentals are pretty much unchanged. That is why OP could refurbish his machine in his garage without much trouble.
Strip all of that away and the fundamentals are pretty much unchanged. That is why OP could refurbish his machine in his garage without much trouble.
Certainly emissions is an aspect, as fuel injection and catalytic converters are the norm now. In a recent search, I found this and found it interesting. The old beast pulls off a win somehow...
Guy on the left was loosing too much RPM and allowing the other guy, who's bike was revving higher at the time to catch up. Listen to the engine revs, guy on left was losing HP at the end of the race.
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
- Messages
- 29,558
Trail riding is a total blast! 
It's been over a month since the last update. I was away for work for a week, went on vacation, kids being sick, etc. But getting back into it now so lets go:
The GET ECU arrived. Mounted the map switch and traction control knob.
The old tail light and under fender plastic was broken so all new for that stuff. I went with a tail light with integrated signals, not legal but neither is anything else on the bike.
The light was advertised to work with the under fender but that wasn't exzactly true. Where the wires come out of the light will need to be clearanced.
And after some dremel work.
Then I put all the wires inside a PVC loom and heatsrinked it into the light grommet.
Then used hot glue gun to secure the loom in place:
The GET ECU arrived. Mounted the map switch and traction control knob.
The old tail light and under fender plastic was broken so all new for that stuff. I went with a tail light with integrated signals, not legal but neither is anything else on the bike.
The light was advertised to work with the under fender but that wasn't exzactly true. Where the wires come out of the light will need to be clearanced.
And after some dremel work.
Then I put all the wires inside a PVC loom and heatsrinked it into the light grommet.
Then used hot glue gun to secure the loom in place:
Next was finding a good way to get the wires into the airbox area.
I drilled this hole and installed a rubber grommet and ran the wires through.
Here it is mocked up:
And with everything in place its mostly covered up:
Turned out pretty clean:
Rear Tugger strap got installed on the final assembly:
I had a Fastway kick stand on the bike but it was worn out and needed a rebuild. Unfortunately they wouldn't send me the parts to rebuild it, they want me to send it to them to have them rebuild it for $50. With shipping from Canada and return it doesn't make sense so I bought a "Swift Kicker" kick stand to try out.
I drilled this hole and installed a rubber grommet and ran the wires through.
Here it is mocked up:
And with everything in place its mostly covered up:
Turned out pretty clean:
Rear Tugger strap got installed on the final assembly:
I had a Fastway kick stand on the bike but it was worn out and needed a rebuild. Unfortunately they wouldn't send me the parts to rebuild it, they want me to send it to them to have them rebuild it for $50. With shipping from Canada and return it doesn't make sense so I bought a "Swift Kicker" kick stand to try out.
OK, that bike is now officially too nice to ride in the dirt! Great job!
As I mentioned elsewhere, sometimes, the product called Plastex is a great choice for repairing dirt bike parts. It is not a CA glue with baking powder. It will make a lasting and very strong repair on most plastics.
As I mentioned elsewhere, sometimes, the product called Plastex is a great choice for repairing dirt bike parts. It is not a CA glue with baking powder. It will make a lasting and very strong repair on most plastics.
The path to ground isn't ideal on these bikes, components are grounded to the frame, frame is bolted to the rear aluminum subframe and the battery negative is grounded to the subframe. This means all the ground current has to flow through that path. Because of this they are known to have ground issues, the common fix is to just run a addition ground cable from the battery neg to the frame.
8ga wire seems to be preferred, I actually don't have anything to crimp bigger than 10ga wire and thats iffy at best.
After some research I picked up this hydraulic crimper.
After a couple of test crimps to get things dialed in I made a new ground cable to go from the battery to the subframe:
Then I was looking for a place to run the cable along the sub frame and noticed where the starter cable is run there is room for another cable if I just clearance this zigzag thing they do with the plastic. I used a wood burning knife cut(melt) it off.
Before:
After:
I needed to mount the starting capacitor. I was hoping to do something cleaner but it fits so nice under the top subframe rail so I just ziptyed it on, this is how I ran it last season. Maybe next off season I'll made a mount for it or something.
8ga wire seems to be preferred, I actually don't have anything to crimp bigger than 10ga wire and thats iffy at best.
After some research I picked up this hydraulic crimper.
After a couple of test crimps to get things dialed in I made a new ground cable to go from the battery to the subframe:
Then I was looking for a place to run the cable along the sub frame and noticed where the starter cable is run there is room for another cable if I just clearance this zigzag thing they do with the plastic. I used a wood burning knife cut(melt) it off.
Before:
After:
I needed to mount the starting capacitor. I was hoping to do something cleaner but it fits so nice under the top subframe rail so I just ziptyed it on, this is how I ran it last season. Maybe next off season I'll made a mount for it or something.
