Just have it moved to a closer shop that will total it out. The other game they play is write a cheap estimate knowing there is more damage so the insurance approves the job. Then, fix the truck and send the insurance a bill for the rest of the stuff they missed up front. By then it’s beyond a total and it’s to late
Truck update
- Thread starter ls1mike
- Start date
Just here to say I agree with @DuckRyder and @Owen Lucas. I’d push for them to total it but if it must be repaired, move it to a USAA Direct Repair shop where they at least have some leverage and will stand behind the repairs to make you happy.
If it stays at the current shop, and issues arise down the road they may just say “you chose this shop and since they aren’t in our Direct Repair Program, there isn’t anything we can do to assist you.
If it stays at the current shop, and issues arise down the road they may just say “you chose this shop and since they aren’t in our Direct Repair Program, there isn’t anything we can do to assist you.
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2025
So this is a USAA direct repair shop. The 6 other shops USAA, the current shop and I talked to that are within 5 to 30 minutes away will not even take the truck based off the repair required. All of those shops are in the USAA network. I do see that that current shop is part of Carstar network and the warranty is nation wide, but it is limited and I could not find out what that means.
Then this is as simple as a stone ax.
"I do not want my truck repaired 2 hours from me, i want it repaired at [insert name of local DRP shop] please arrange that and let me know when it has arrived."
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2025
How long did it take you to do a frame swap?
I would total it out and try to increase the payoff amount just as high as you can go. Otherwise I would see what I could buy the truck for after it's totalled and have the frame straightened. I have seen trucks much worse than yours which have been repaired by a reputable frame shop and they do not replace the entire frame. Unfortunately there is not really a win in your situation. It's just a matter of how much you will lose after the settlement. I wouldn't keep waiting around because these things are quite a lot of stress plus you need your truck or you wouldn't have one in the first place.
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2025
I know, I still need a picture of the bend. I asked if they would just straighten it. They are not interested. The other problem is I can't find anyone around here who will take it. I called a local place not in network and told them my situation. The were sympathetic, but really don't want to straighten the frame. So the possibility exist I buy and still can't get anyone to fix it.
Why in gods name would you buy it back and straighten a frame that's crazy talk... if the shop wont straighten the frame there is a reason for that... pushing to total it and then half a donkey repairing it when you're worried it wont be right is stupid.
You've been given excellent advice about how to handle this, act on it.
You've been given excellent advice about how to handle this, act on it.
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2025
Because I question how bad it really is. That is why I wan it closer. All the doors lined up and opened fine. If I am understanding it, the shop it is just fwd of the shock mount. There is nothing up there. They won't straighten it for 2 reasons. They don't want to put heat to it, and they say the frame could be in their words "trapezoided". I mean you are correct and that is my intention, but it was nice not having any payments
some shops don't want something like that stuck in the shop taking up floor space for an inordinate amount of time
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2025
That is my guess. The shop I wanted to use said they use to sublet the frame swap out, but the guy who used to do it retired so they won't do them anymore.
I've been to Chief School and GMTC - trust me if it is bent all the way to the shock mount the front horns are toast.
GM Trucks of recent vintage have crush zones in the front horns that are non repairable and are serviced as sections, if damage is confined to the horns then they could be replaced as a section using GM approved procedures, however if damage extends past the section they you are trying to restore the rear sections to the center and datum lines before cutting then off for the section, it is not worth it.
There are essentially three sections to a frame whether unit body or full frame, front center and rear. the cab on a truck is mounted to the center section so it would not demonstrate problems with doors and such as a result of damage to the front section. all the gaps you would look at are in the front sheet metal that is KO'ed.
A diamond (trapezoidal) is a common issue with ladder frames hit on one side but really should not be a concern of being induced on a pull, this statement alone if correctly related gives me some concern about the shop.
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On the original thread, a few pages deep it shows how the front driver's side fender was tweaked enough to rub against the door. Lots of good advice on here.
In what State do you live, and does your state have diminished value laws?
In South Carolina for example - if this happened to me the insurance company owes me a check when there done for the diminished value of the truck being in a wreck. The state makes it very easy to collect this money - there is a magistrate set up specifically for such disputes where you can submit your claim in plain English. I would look into this, and mention it if you have any leverage - tell them you want it totalled.
https://www.mwl-law.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/DIMINUTION-IN-VALUE-IN-ALL-50-STATES.pdf
In South Carolina for example - if this happened to me the insurance company owes me a check when there done for the diminished value of the truck being in a wreck. The state makes it very easy to collect this money - there is a magistrate set up specifically for such disputes where you can submit your claim in plain English. I would look into this, and mention it if you have any leverage - tell them you want it totalled.
https://www.mwl-law.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/DIMINUTION-IN-VALUE-IN-ALL-50-STATES.pdf
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2025
It is, and USAA sent that paper which I filled out 2 weeks ago now.
JHZR2
Staff member
Did they say why they won’t straighten it, or weld in a new one (I assume the tower is welded to it)?
Seems like relatively small damage for such a high cost.
Does the FSM give any hints on frame repairs? I think on my Ram it does, and even says what can be unbolted and replaced to remediate it.
I get the adage that a vehicle is never the same after a repair, but from the photos it just doesn’t seem like a lot compared to other damage I’ve seen repaired.
JHZR2
Staff member
I don’t know why anyone would think that a direct repair shop is the way to go. They will do subpar work at prenegotiated rates, using non-OEM parts and reduced labor rates to make the direct referral insurance company happy. The insurance company then uses these “proprietary” rates to justify a lower estimate for anyone not going to one of their shops.
It’s steering without the name.
If using a direct referral shop, I’d want in writing that every last part was OE. They can make whatever deals they want on labor rates, but the part should be real.
Beyond that, how often are cabs and engines removed from frames? Lots. Toyotas are done all the time. Cab mounts on fords fail routinely. A new frame isn’t the end of the world assuming the electrical stuff is all done right and the interior doesn’t get messed up.
Every time I pass my local Ford dealer, there is at least one truck in the service bays with its cab removed. It's not rocket science. A new frame is the preferable route rather than straightening the existing.
Now, whether that one particular shop actually wants to do good honest work or just work the insurance company remains to be seen. It could go either way.
I think cab off is how you replace an engine in the Ford's. Someone correct me if I am wrong. Apparently its not that difficult to pull the cab - if you have the correct equipment I would guess.
My concern would be them getting all the wiring on and off without issues.
GON
$150 Site Donor 2025
I worked.next to a body shop in high school, and became friends with the owner. Very early 1980s. This guy only did high end vehicles. He told me he often had to by an adjusters lunch to get a repair approved. And he was.not talking food.
One tip he told me was.to.always get the vehicle to a shop that one trusted, and to tell the insurance company you smell.gas and are afraid to drive it to the shop they recommend ml.
One tip he told me was.to.always get the vehicle to a shop that one trusted, and to tell the insurance company you smell.gas and are afraid to drive it to the shop they recommend ml.
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