They have to unless there is something such as Nikasil applied or it’s an Alusil type block material.
Towing with GM Light Duty 3.0L diesel
- Thread starter rbk777
- Start date
Well the GM engine is garbage too. Pages and pages of problems on their forums and social media owners groups. Typical GM engineering... and somebody already mentioned that timing belt for the oil pump that you can't get to unless the remainder of the driveline is removed from the truck. So engine quality is a moot point.
Most of the failures on the Ram were due to oil spec, and I'm betting these GM engines will start seeing the same when a larger sample of them reaches 100k and beyond.
the lion F150 might actually be the best of the three. which is kind of embarrassing given that engine family’s checkered past.
Please post a link to the "pages and pages of problems".
Probably the best option.
That option is not low ash.
It's "Low Ash" in the sense that CJ-4 is limited to 1%, but still I'd be sticking to Euro Mid-SAPS stuff, either the specified dexosD (ACEA C5), or dexos 2 (ACEA C3), maybe ACEA C2, the only HDEO, I'd consider putting in it is Chevron Delo 600 ADF which is only like .4% ash and comes in either 10W30 or 15W40.
you need emissions system protection (ESP) and an add pack suitable for a light duty diesel. that is exactly what an acea c3 oil does
american hdeos serve different needs
american hdeos serve different needs
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2021
- Messages
- 1,410
Yep low ash oils like delo 600 are very great stout oils for demanding operation.
While you do keep up with your engine oil, make sure the transmission also sees the same care.
Trans, plus f/r diffs, plus transfer case, and coolant all will get changed every 30-60K miles. Sounds like overkill for some (and it often is), but I keep my cars to 200K plus miles and only ever had a radiator and a rear diff fail, and both were 100% on me because I did not change their fluids frequently. When I do change fluids, I never have failures.
No idea on the GM engine, but its not an oil spec issue on the RAM, although the change did help slightly. Junk EGR coolers, poor programming, with excess EGR flow , and extended mileage between changes are what kill these.
LMGTFY - Let Me Google That For You
For all those people who find it more convenient to bother you with their question rather than to Google it for themselves.
So, there's nothing, since you can't link to anything saying there's a problem just, "do you're own research," the VM Motori Eco Diesel, has extensive issues that are well known, the oil grade is little to do with it, it's poorly designed EGR systems and badly designed oil coolers that are the primary problem, FCA/VM Motori doesn't even seem to know what they're doing, they keep changing oil recommendations and I think one of the specs that's allowable is actually an FCA version of A3/B4 which I absolutely would not put in any vehicle with a DPF. The Duramax seems to have a few hit and miss problems at best, whereas the Ecodiesel has an extensive history of being a problem, overall I'd say get a gasser if you need a truck, Diesel isn't worth it unless you're driving a semi or maybe a medium duty truck.LMGTFY - Let Me Google That For You
For all those people who find it more convenient to bother you with their question rather than to Google it for themselves.lmgtfy.app
Maybe have a look at a FA-4 5w30 or 10w30. Max HTHS is 3.1, just a tad thicker than XW20s.
Any VW 507/Porsche C30. Best approval for aftertreatment system in a diesel engine with good wear protection. Fiat Ducato 2.3L diesel owner here 
Mobil1 ESP 0W30 or ESP 5W30, Motul X-Clean+ 5W30.
There is really stout Morul X-Clean 5W40 GEN2 that has HTHS 3.9. It is $49 on Amazon for 5ltr.
There is really stout Morul X-Clean 5W40 GEN2 that has HTHS 3.9. It is $49 on Amazon for 5ltr.
I’m so happy to see another 3.0l owner here.
I posted my recent UOA with the ac delco stuff and per the norm I’ve seen with the rare few others posted we see pretty high iron levels early on.
I have esp x2 in at the moment but my next fill will be the esp 5w30 and will run a UOA ALSO to compare
Your close. Regardless of outside temp the oil always runs a minimum of 230.
When oil hits 200 the coolant with rise in temp to bring oil to 230 and then return to regular coolant operating temp of 210-215.
Then during highway or regular driving I see. 230-239 oil temps
While towing on the freeway mid summer 100+ or winter -10 the oil is basically the same and will hover 240-255.
At 260 the coolant will drop down to 180 and cool the oil off.
The truck has a very set range of temps for the oil and coolant. And with a OBDII reader I monitor basically every coolant and oil temp I can. It’s a very interesting system and for now it works great. But I also question 0w20 for anything but fuel efficiency.
I switched to esp x2 and only have another 1500 miles before I will change it and run another UOA. From what I’ve seen on fb basically every UOA with delco 0w20 has posted iron levels 50+ and some even much higher!. I’m hoping the esp does produce lower levels and only time will tell. But I do know I’ll be switching to the 5w30 on my next change.
They do not use a 7th injector. It’s post combustion injection for the dpf regeneration.. my couple UOAS were black stone so not GC testing for dilution but I also didn’t see ANY rise in levels and I check in the same spot and same conditions nearly daily. But I know even 3-4% wouldnt be noticeable most likely on the dipstick… who do you recommend for a proper GC test? I’ll use somebody else on my next UOA in about 2-3 weeks on my 3.0l duramax
He’s referring to fb and the crank no start issue. Soon to be corrected I imagine… not even comparable to gen 1 and 2 eco diesels from VM
